Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• May 1, 2014

• #141

Anyone got a decent way to remove powder coat?

I'd like to strip my NAS hitch, bumpers, and sliders down and get them glaved then powder coated again.

Was thinking a needle scaler on the air gun might work, but have read conflicting info about how good they are at taking powder coat off.

 

M

Maaarrghk

New Member

• May 1, 2014

• #142

Sand blast or use an angle grinder with sanding disc attachment. Powder coat is tough stuff.

After you galvanize, make sure the powder coaters use a mordant t-wash to properly key the parts, otherwise your new powder coat will peel off in no time.

 

M

MudM8s

New Member

• May 3, 2014

• #143

hey bennehboy,

thanks for your post on 'what winch' thread. Saw the finished article warn and thought yeah right you got that for £80.00 - then saw the prep work. Really nice job! Were you able to remove then replace the model/details labels? and is it easy to find other labels? I've seen the warn sticker on flea bay - cheers Tom

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• May 3, 2014

• #144

The clutch mechanism stickers came with the replacement clutch housing.

The red warn W came off no bother.

I left the motor plaque on and just masked it for painting.

Devon 4x4 can supply just about any warn part - unfortunately most bits are sold as assemblies so you can't directly order sub parts in the UK. Also prices in the US seem to be less in dollars than they are in pounds here, so we're paying through the nose - ho hum!

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• May 3, 2014

• #145

Tidied up the provent install a bit:

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• May 3, 2014

• #146

Weather was nice so also decided to fit the new top hose and oil cooler hose that I picked up a few weeks back...

before:

after:

only took about 20 minutes including the drain down and refill. having the right tools to hand make life soooo much easier.

 

Last edited: Sep 1, 2020

MJI

Well-Known Member

• May 4, 2014

• #147

Coming along well!

 

M

Maaarrghk

New Member

• May 4, 2014

• #148

Yes it was a nice day in West Yorkshire today Beneh.

I spent the morning doing a centre box delete and the afternoon driving around like a hooligan.

Serck intercooler still in the shed and it keeps winking at me. But I will play hard to get and save up for a Pro vent first.

Noticed your big plastic engine cover missing. Did you chuck it away? If so, did it make any difference to cabin noise?

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• May 4, 2014

• #149

Maaarrghk said:

Yes it was a nice day in West Yorkshire today Beneh.

I spent the morning doing a centre box delete and the afternoon driving around like a hooligan.

Serck intercooler still in the shed and it keeps winking at me. But I will play hard to get and save up for a Pro vent first.

Noticed your big plastic engine cover missing. Did you chuck it away? If so, did it make any difference to cabin noise?

Click to expand...

I've not had it on for about a year, it's in the shed hiding.

As for noise, can't really remember if it was any quieter - maybe I'll stick it back on and see.

 

Mr Noisy

Coming in your ears.

• May 5, 2014

• #150

Most people who "own" their td5 (as opposed to just owning 'the car') remove the cover, it saves you a job every time and also looks that bit more functional.

Tidy amount more rattle can be heard but frankly it is slight.

On the contrary however, I enjoy engine noises, let it sing!

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• May 5, 2014

• #151

Mr Noisy said:

Most people who "own" their td5 (as opposed to just owning 'the car') remove the cover, it saves you a job every time and also looks that bit more functional.

Tidy amount more rattle can be heard but frankly it is slight.

On the contrary however, I enjoy engine noises, let it sing!

Click to expand...

Goes back on at MOT time though, that way they just give an 'visual inspection obscured' type advisory instead of 'EGR system removed' lol.

 

Mr Noisy

Coming in your ears.

• May 5, 2014

• #152

Tactical!

 

M

Maaarrghk

New Member

• May 5, 2014

• #153

Noted!

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• May 8, 2014

• #154

471 Miles out of the last tank of fuel.

This included a pot of redex.

But I also drove it like miss daisy.

Convinced there's still room for improvement, I've got a spare warped TD5 exhaust manifold in the shed that I'm going to flap disc flat and swap with my existing warped manifold.

Thats should improve boost a little bit at low RPM's.

Also going to replace the glow plugs, lots of smoke until it warms up.

Following that I need to get the remap tweaked just before the boost kicks in, it blows out lots of smoke if the car is laboring around 1500 rpm. So much so that I dunno what mr MOT man will say!

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• May 9, 2014

• #155

480 miles when I filled up this morning, and it only took 81 litres in. Think I need to dare myself to go below the red line!

Arsed about trying to flap disk a spare exhaust manifold flat, have got pretty close. Also cut the webs. Will get some wet n dry taped to a sheet of glass to finish the surface off.

 

Last edited: Sep 1, 2020

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• May 10, 2014

• #156

Wet n Dry sanding station lol

 

M

Maaarrghk

New Member

• May 10, 2014

• #157

No reason why it shouldn't work.

Reminds me of when I was about 13 and both head gaskets went on my Dads old V4 Transit.

He stuck wet n dry to an old circular saw bench at his mates joiners shop, squirted some oil on there and skimmed the heads flat by hand in about half a day.

We then drove it around Scotland for 10 days. Lasted another 18 months till he scrapped it.

 

R

Rasher

Active Member

• May 10, 2014

• #158

that's how I do all my bike engine casings.

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• May 10, 2014

• #159

FACT Halfords wet and dry is ****.

Wickes is a lot better.

 

E

Elation

New Member

• May 10, 2014

• #160

Mr Bennehboy, with these in depth product reviews you are really spoiling us...

Good read - gathering ideas for when I finally find my first foray into landyrovering.