@Henry_b I replaced the input on the wastegate actuator and all was well, the ECU had cut the boost violently and it was in some kind of limp state (which I didn't think existed on a manual).

@bankz5152 nothing mental, 26 psi.

Come on boost pretty sharpish?

My Forge one is decent but I feel the spring is a little hard. Currently boosts about 24psi with a bleed valve.
 
Come on boost pretty sharpish?

My Forge one is decent but I feel the spring is a little hard. Currently boosts about 24psi with a bleed valve.

It's faster on boost than the stock turbo that i used to have (this one is a hybrid, larger billet compressor) but I've never really recorded rev range, I just drive accordingly :D

The map that's on is fairly aggressive.
 
Few updates since I last posted....

I ditched the slickshift, not sure why but for the 2nd time it forced the selector ball & bush out of the yolk in the gearbox resulting in no gear selection - I think this is probably in combination with the dragging clutch that I had - because the end of the gearstick sits a bit higher it leaves it open to this possibility - ie it's probably just fine on a vehicle where gear selection is already easy....

So bought a cheap chinese endoscope and went fishing in my gearbox for the missing selector bush and ball, worked a treat.....

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Put some Triple QX MTF in that I bought and it seems to be changing OK.
 
Noticed a squeak coming from under the car when on overrun at lowish speeds.

Braved the rain to drop my rear (200TDI) prop off, I figured it would be more likely to be the one squeaking than the Bailey Morris Extreme prop on the front...

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Hunch correct.

This prop has been very regularly greased. This is not an HD UJ, so I guess the grease forced it's way out the path of least resistance and never made it to the 2 cups that looked like this. At least it didn't go bang!

New HD UJ fitted (did both ends)
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Well, i've had a slight exhaust manifold leak, and the turbo oil drain return has been weeping so I thought I'd remove the turbo and manifold, renew some of the studs and reseal the drain.

Whilst removing the downpipe nuts, one of the studs sheared :(

So MAPP gas came out and I got the remainder good and hot and twisted out the stud with a stilson.

Struggled to find a 40mm M12 replacement so had to improvise....

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Some washers helped clamp it back up.

Refreshed all the turbo to exhaust manifold studs (and nuts)
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Double gasket on the exhaust manifold - the manifold is flat cold but the edges like to lift when things get hot...
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All back together with new nuts
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It's amazing how much extra power you get from plugging a very small leak :D
 
so I guess the grease forced it's way out the path of least resistance and never made it to the 2 cups that looked like this
Grease will ALWAYS do this. Best if you possibly can to take the thing you want to grease apart. Only other thing is to at least take the thing off and move the constituent parts to ends of their travel while greasing.
 
You didn't fancy cutting through the webs on the Exhaust manifold to try and prevent the bugre from warping later on? As mine, and so many others have had?
 
Grease will ALWAYS do this. Best if you possibly can to take the thing you want to grease apart. Only other thing is to at least take the thing off and move the constituent parts to ends of their travel while greasing.

Unfortunately about the best that can be accomplished with this is to rotate the prop to the 4 quadrants in situ, but the grease gun and nipple foul the prop cups so it's impractical. I've seen UJ's in the US that have a nipple on each of the actual bearing cups, although not sure if they are available in the correct size for a landy prop.
 
Unfortunately about the best that can be accomplished with this is to rotate the prop to the 4 quadrants in situ, but the grease gun and nipple foul the prop cups so it's impractical. I've seen UJ's in the US that have a nipple on each of the actual bearing cups, although not sure if they are available in the correct size for a landy prop.
Many grease points don't have a permanent nipple, you are supposed to remove the tiny screw or bolt (2BA often) and then screw your own nipple in. There is nothing to stop you, if you really are that bothered, from drilling and tapping holes anywhere it won't compromise the strength of the part, then fitting blanking plugs, then taking them out and screwing in your own nipple when you wan to do the job. all you have to be carefull of is that the blanking plug is not long enough to foul anything. So if your UJ cups are fouling the nipple, you can unscrew it, work the cups all over the place, screw it back in again. Grease, then do it again and again until you are happy. The grease will only move under pressure so it won't squirt out all over the place!
 
Hi Ben can I ask a question re the piston ring gaps when you rebuilt the engine, it says in the manual set the gaps 120 degrees apart with none on the thrust side ( LHS looing at the front of the engine) do you set the top ring at about 4 o'clock looking down on the piston then the second ring at about 1 o'clock then the oil ring at 4 o'clock so each gap is 120 degree from the next one.
Setting them all progressivly at 120 degrees would mean one ring gap would fall on the thrust side, just in the process of a major rebuild myself.
 
I had the gaps at 3, 7 & 11 o'clock, I think this is only really a requirement for first start as the rings could obviously wander over time... I don't think I specifically set each corresponding ring on the different pistons to the same positions, I just ensured all 3 were 120 degrees apart. Hope that makes sense.
 
I had the gaps at 3, 7 & 11 o'clock, I think this is only really a requirement for first start as the rings could obviously wander over time... I don't think I specifically set each corresponding ring on the different pistons to the same positions, I just ensured all 3 were 120 degrees apart. Hope that makes sense.

Thanks that makes sense, I also agree they can spin while running, but I just wanted someones experience who had built one of these brutes, started putting mine together today put in the new main bearing shells with a load of snotty re build oil and it turns quite nicely. Loads of muck behind the top piston ring so I gave it a good clean out.
 
Not posted here in a while, for anyone interested the engine is still going strong half a year later, although it's been doing a lot less miles in 2020 owing to it's daft owner slipping a disk.

There's a poing coming from the suspension somewhere so I suspect it might need some bushes sorting prior to MOT this year.

Hope everyone is keeping sane during lockdown.
 
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Glad to hear it mate
Hope you get sorted soon
Must be year of owners breaking down not the ladies mines parked up due to a small stroke no driving for a month but on the plus side it cant break when its parked up fingers crossed
 

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