Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Picked up the new bearing from the factors, and set about replacing the one in the timing cover, took about 30 mins end to end not really rushing, having the right tools helps....
12mm hex key and a viscous spanner set are essential, bolt the viscous 'holding' spanner to the pulley flange, and use a breaker bar on the hex key to break the threadlock, I then used my windy gun to wind the stud out of the flange.
Next clean up any crap and remove the circlip....
Wear safety goggles when taking out the circlip!
Put the flange back on the stud just a couple of threads then use something to brace against the cover - wind the nut back in the flange and the bearing will pull out...
Over to the press and push the stud out of the old bearing
New vs old
Back to the press and push the stud into the new bearing after cleaning up the stud
Clean up the housing
And use a big socket to press the new bearing complete with stud back into the housing - forgot to take a pic!!
Refit the circlip, and wind the flange back on with the windy gun, all done
12mm hex key and a viscous spanner set are essential, bolt the viscous 'holding' spanner to the pulley flange, and use a breaker bar on the hex key to break the threadlock, I then used my windy gun to wind the stud out of the flange.
Next clean up any crap and remove the circlip....
Wear safety goggles when taking out the circlip!
Put the flange back on the stud just a couple of threads then use something to brace against the cover - wind the nut back in the flange and the bearing will pull out...
Over to the press and push the stud out of the old bearing
New vs old
Back to the press and push the stud into the new bearing after cleaning up the stud
Clean up the housing
And use a big socket to press the new bearing complete with stud back into the housing - forgot to take a pic!!
Refit the circlip, and wind the flange back on with the windy gun, all done
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Today was short engine build day.
First off I had my eldest help me lift the block and stand into the shed - bit crowded in there!
I broke the 2 new pistons out of their packaging, and fitted the conrods, the correct way round to all 5 pistons.
Then I fitted the new rings to the 3 pistons that were being re-used, for the oil control ring it's best to separate the coil from the scraper, this can then be expanded on the wire guide and slipped over the piston first by hand - the remaining rings are fitted with the ring expander pliers (the good German ones!)
Once all the rings are on I then checked the 2 lower rings groove clearances, this should be between 0.05 & 0.08mm. I also measured the pistons skirts with my micrometer, this should be 84.262mm. All were at best spec.
Now that I was happy with the pistons tolerances I fitted shells and test fit all the caps to get a reasonable top/bottom shell alignment
Crank shells & thrusts in and assembly lubed up
This is the assembly lube I'm using, it's super sticky
Turned the crank over by hand (put the old crank pulley bolt in the end of the crank and ratcheted on that, and used the dti to check endfloat, which was ~ 0.12mm right in the middle of what's acceptable.
Oiled up the pistons skirts, set the ring caps at 120 degree spacings with none on the thrust side, got them in the ring compressor and fitted them one at a time, crank is rotated to bring the corresponding journal to the top of bore each time then the caps are bolted on and torqued to spec - plenty of assembly lube used on the shells and journals
All five in
I then used the DTI to get each piston to full lift, popped a straight edge across them and used feeler gauges to measure protrusion, they were all less than 0.5mm but greater than 0.4mm so technically that requires a 2 hole gasket.... the one I have is 3 hole - I expect this is down to the crank being better spec than mine. I'll re-measure later as one of them was close to 0.5 so if it's over I'll need to use the 3 hole that I have.
First off I had my eldest help me lift the block and stand into the shed - bit crowded in there!
I broke the 2 new pistons out of their packaging, and fitted the conrods, the correct way round to all 5 pistons.
Then I fitted the new rings to the 3 pistons that were being re-used, for the oil control ring it's best to separate the coil from the scraper, this can then be expanded on the wire guide and slipped over the piston first by hand - the remaining rings are fitted with the ring expander pliers (the good German ones!)
Once all the rings are on I then checked the 2 lower rings groove clearances, this should be between 0.05 & 0.08mm. I also measured the pistons skirts with my micrometer, this should be 84.262mm. All were at best spec.
Now that I was happy with the pistons tolerances I fitted shells and test fit all the caps to get a reasonable top/bottom shell alignment
Crank shells & thrusts in and assembly lubed up
This is the assembly lube I'm using, it's super sticky
Turned the crank over by hand (put the old crank pulley bolt in the end of the crank and ratcheted on that, and used the dti to check endfloat, which was ~ 0.12mm right in the middle of what's acceptable.
Oiled up the pistons skirts, set the ring caps at 120 degree spacings with none on the thrust side, got them in the ring compressor and fitted them one at a time, crank is rotated to bring the corresponding journal to the top of bore each time then the caps are bolted on and torqued to spec - plenty of assembly lube used on the shells and journals
All five in
I then used the DTI to get each piston to full lift, popped a straight edge across them and used feeler gauges to measure protrusion, they were all less than 0.5mm but greater than 0.4mm so technically that requires a 2 hole gasket.... the one I have is 3 hole - I expect this is down to the crank being better spec than mine. I'll re-measure later as one of them was close to 0.5 so if it's over I'll need to use the 3 hole that I have.
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Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Almost finished with the bottom end now, just the oil cooler & filters to reattach, will do that tomorrow, it's BBQ weather 
Cleaned up the oil pump/stiffener bolts, paraffin, blow off, then through a die to clean the old threadlock off
Mounted up the oil pump with a new gasket, and finger tightened all the bolts. I primed the pump with fresh engine oil first.
Torqued them up to the correct spec of 13nm, NOT 23nm like it says in my copy of Haynes.
New o-ring on the oil pickup, cleanup up the bolts, rethreadlocked and fitted. Also fitted the new crank rear oil seal.
Chain guides on
Chains and oil pump sprocket fitted - making sure timing marks correct & no1 at TDC
To torque the oil pump bolt up and not have the crank turn over I used a grinder wheel changing tool to lock the two holes on the sprocket whilst I torqued through the center
Fitted new front crank oil seal to the timing cover, brake cleaned the face of the block and the cover, and used my favourite RTV to seal it... I've sat the seal as far back as it will go without it overlapping the back of the journal - I figure it will have a new running area on the crank pulley that way and hold a better seal.... maybe.
Sump on with new gasket. Covered the top to stop stuff floating in.
Cleaned up the oil pump/stiffener bolts, paraffin, blow off, then through a die to clean the old threadlock off
Mounted up the oil pump with a new gasket, and finger tightened all the bolts. I primed the pump with fresh engine oil first.
Torqued them up to the correct spec of 13nm, NOT 23nm like it says in my copy of Haynes.
New o-ring on the oil pickup, cleanup up the bolts, rethreadlocked and fitted. Also fitted the new crank rear oil seal.
Chain guides on
Chains and oil pump sprocket fitted - making sure timing marks correct & no1 at TDC
To torque the oil pump bolt up and not have the crank turn over I used a grinder wheel changing tool to lock the two holes on the sprocket whilst I torqued through the center
Fitted new front crank oil seal to the timing cover, brake cleaned the face of the block and the cover, and used my favourite RTV to seal it... I've sat the seal as far back as it will go without it overlapping the back of the journal - I figure it will have a new running area on the crank pulley that way and hold a better seal.... maybe.
Sump on with new gasket. Covered the top to stop stuff floating in.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Back from the lakes.
Did a couple of quick jobs this evening, resealed the sump gasket, I had forgotten the line of sealant along the top of the crank seal - that bugged me all week whilst away LOL
Fitted all the engine mount brackets and all the ancillaries that came out with the engine back on.
Degreased the bell housing (blurry pic, sorry).
The new clutch arrived whilst I was away. Interesting that this AP Racing clutch has 'Valeo' printed on the clutch material...
Fingers crossed I can get it all back together tomorrow - including giving the head a quick clean down....
Did a couple of quick jobs this evening, resealed the sump gasket, I had forgotten the line of sealant along the top of the crank seal - that bugged me all week whilst away LOL
Fitted all the engine mount brackets and all the ancillaries that came out with the engine back on.
Degreased the bell housing (blurry pic, sorry).
The new clutch arrived whilst I was away. Interesting that this AP Racing clutch has 'Valeo' printed on the clutch material...
Fingers crossed I can get it all back together tomorrow - including giving the head a quick clean down....
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Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Started the day at the gym, then went straight to the local indy to collect a new thermostat & water pump.
Just rained off and having a coffee so thought I'd post an update.
Glad I decided to change the pump because mine had clearly been leaking through the bearing (QH pump out, Pro Flo one in)
New stat in, excuse the grotty glove marks
New cast ali release bearing, new slave push rod, and new cups
Glad I changed the slave rod, here's the old one.... this is supposed to have a ball on the end
And the old bearing was a bit rough - I think push fit replacements can be had for these castings...
The clutch cover and flywheel faces (Helix & Rakeway) had some oil staining so they got clutch and break cleanered and a light sanding. Before and after pics...
Those might get some more elbow grease yet if the rain doesn't let up/
Just rained off and having a coffee so thought I'd post an update.
Glad I decided to change the pump because mine had clearly been leaking through the bearing (QH pump out, Pro Flo one in)
New stat in, excuse the grotty glove marks
New cast ali release bearing, new slave push rod, and new cups
Glad I changed the slave rod, here's the old one.... this is supposed to have a ball on the end
And the old bearing was a bit rough - I think push fit replacements can be had for these castings...
The clutch cover and flywheel faces (Helix & Rakeway) had some oil staining so they got clutch and break cleanered and a light sanding. Before and after pics...
Those might get some more elbow grease yet if the rain doesn't let up/
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Had an absolute mare getting the engine back in, I keep a spare R380 pinion to use as a clutch alignment tool but the local metal scratters have had it and a load of other bits away (they were not in plain sight) meaning I had to make do. The gearbox input shaft would just not drop into the spigot bush (which was a brand new oil soaked one btw). Anyhow, sods law, I went to Halfrauds and bought a clutch alignment tool, came back and tried to pull the block out only for it pop into place on the spigot. FFS!!
All the ancillaries are mounted now.
Needs the head back on, injector clearances setting, oil, coolant, and off we go....
head has had a paraffin bath and scotchbrite - I used a cement mixing base to do it in.
All the ancillaries are mounted now.
Needs the head back on, injector clearances setting, oil, coolant, and off we go....
head has had a paraffin bath and scotchbrite - I used a cement mixing base to do it in.
I have seen that law too
sometimes just a tea break gets it, saves money too.Anyway things are looking really good.
Startup when?
J
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
All done, not too many pics from the final assembly, there's nothing really tricky that's not covered in the removal...
Ready for the head, 3 hole gasket used - could probably have used a 2 hole, but I had this one, negligable compression difference.
Head lugged from the shed and chained to the crane - gave the mating face a good clean down with brake cleaner until the rags showed no dirt/oil residue
And it's on
I use a bit of card to keep track of where I've torqued to, a line for each stage, and I use a digital torque wrench that does both torque and angles.
First stage done - 30nm
All done, so 30nm, 65nm, 90 degrees, 180 degrees, & 45 degrees.
Old front crank seal had clearly been leaking
Cleaned up the oil and gave a light finishing sand to the journal
Got the big 3/4 drive torque wrench out to do the crank pulley bolt up to 460nm - gearbox in 4 & hand brake on, easy peasy.
No pics for the rest, all straightforward - although the turbo oil return flange/gasket gave a right fight!
She fired up on the first extended crank, no huge smoke plume.
Injector idle balances all nice - couldn't see _any_ blowby out of the oil filler plug.
Ran the engine for 30 mins with just water and coolant flush in, then dropped that out and put in some OAT.
Have done 25 miles in it so far, just pootling - will do a couple hundred easy miles to let the rings bed in, then change the oil. It's got some semi synth 10w40 in for now, but will stuff some magnatec 5w30 in when it gets changed along with some ZDDP oil additive to protect the cam.
Ready for the head, 3 hole gasket used - could probably have used a 2 hole, but I had this one, negligable compression difference.
Head lugged from the shed and chained to the crane - gave the mating face a good clean down with brake cleaner until the rags showed no dirt/oil residue
And it's on
I use a bit of card to keep track of where I've torqued to, a line for each stage, and I use a digital torque wrench that does both torque and angles.
First stage done - 30nm
All done, so 30nm, 65nm, 90 degrees, 180 degrees, & 45 degrees.
Old front crank seal had clearly been leaking
Cleaned up the oil and gave a light finishing sand to the journal
Got the big 3/4 drive torque wrench out to do the crank pulley bolt up to 460nm - gearbox in 4 & hand brake on, easy peasy.
No pics for the rest, all straightforward - although the turbo oil return flange/gasket gave a right fight!
She fired up on the first extended crank, no huge smoke plume.
Injector idle balances all nice - couldn't see _any_ blowby out of the oil filler plug.
Ran the engine for 30 mins with just water and coolant flush in, then dropped that out and put in some OAT.
Have done 25 miles in it so far, just pootling - will do a couple hundred easy miles to let the rings bed in, then change the oil. It's got some semi synth 10w40 in for now, but will stuff some magnatec 5w30 in when it gets changed along with some ZDDP oil additive to protect the cam.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
All is well so far, 75 miles on. Still absolutely zero signs of blow by from the oil filler cap. Coolant level is holding nicely with no oil - I'm well chuffed.
Only downside so far is the clutch seems to be dragging a bit making reverse nigh impossible to select with the engine running. I'm going to jam a bit of wood in tonight to hold the pedal down and see if it will self bleed. If not it's time for a swearing session this weekend as I get DOT4 everywhere.
Only downside so far is the clutch seems to be dragging a bit making reverse nigh impossible to select with the engine running. I'm going to jam a bit of wood in tonight to hold the pedal down and see if it will self bleed. If not it's time for a swearing session this weekend as I get DOT4 everywhere.
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raywin
Well-Known Member
Sounding pretty good.
I was interested to hear about the torque wrench which does both torque and angles, must be a godsend on the TD5 head.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Yup, very useful, the big end bolts also need an angle set too. I'll dig out some details when I get a moment, was about a ton IIRC.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
250 miles on and she's running like a dream. Dropped the running in oil and refilled with magnatec plus some ZDDP additive.
Still struggling with the dragging clutch, I've now gravity bled it, reverse pressure bled it, cyclic bled it, and the best I can get it to is being able to really grind it into reverse whilst the engine runs. Pretty sure it's the master that needs the bleed, I cracked off the union and tried to bleed it but it only got marginally better. I'm even considering dropping it a the local indie for them to fight with it. For now I can live with it, will try the old plank of wood on the clutch pedal overnight.
Next job is replacing the rear wiper motor, and the rear drivers side inner arch - the YRM galv one I had fitted went awol a couple of months ago....
Still struggling with the dragging clutch, I've now gravity bled it, reverse pressure bled it, cyclic bled it, and the best I can get it to is being able to really grind it into reverse whilst the engine runs. Pretty sure it's the master that needs the bleed, I cracked off the union and tried to bleed it but it only got marginally better. I'm even considering dropping it a the local indie for them to fight with it. For now I can live with it, will try the old plank of wood on the clutch pedal overnight.
Next job is replacing the rear wiper motor, and the rear drivers side inner arch - the YRM galv one I had fitted went awol a couple of months ago....
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Had a bit of a near heart stopping moment on Weds, was overtaking and the power just completely dropped out... pretty much the same feeling as a blown HG.
Got it home very gingerly with reduced power and when I checked the coolant there was no pressure build up or oil. Whacked the nanocom on and it had overboosted, must've hit some kind of limp mode which I didn't think the manual had...
Anyhow, long story short, the clockable nipple on the wastegate actuator was goosed, o-rings were flat and it was ****ing out the pressure rather than operating the WG.
5 quid in parts later and all is well again
The actuator I have on is a TurboSmart IWG-75 sprung to 16 pounds.
Got it home very gingerly with reduced power and when I checked the coolant there was no pressure build up or oil. Whacked the nanocom on and it had overboosted, must've hit some kind of limp mode which I didn't think the manual had...
Anyhow, long story short, the clockable nipple on the wastegate actuator was goosed, o-rings were flat and it was ****ing out the pressure rather than operating the WG.
5 quid in parts later and all is well again
The actuator I have on is a TurboSmart IWG-75 sprung to 16 pounds.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
So what PSI/Bar you putting out?
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
@Henry_b I replaced the input on the wastegate actuator and all was well, the ECU had cut the boost violently and it was in some kind of limp state (which I didn't think existed on a manual).
@bankz5152 nothing mental, 26 psi.
@bankz5152 nothing mental, 26 psi.
