TrilloThrillo110
Active Member
Looks great. Is it a double thickness one?
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
It's thicker than the stock one, but it's not double row like the 200tdi ones.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Sorting a few loose ends ready for holiday road trip...
Got a couple of Tallon USB ports from Mud Uk (cheaper at the counter than via web)...
Also fixed the bluetooth handsfree at the same time, the power connector had come away behind the dash, oops!
Need to get some more USB ports plumbed into the back for the kids, but I think that might be a job for next week.
Got a couple of Tallon USB ports from Mud Uk (cheaper at the counter than via web)...
Also fixed the bluetooth handsfree at the same time, the power connector had come away behind the dash, oops!
Need to get some more USB ports plumbed into the back for the kids, but I think that might be a job for next week.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Car survived a return trip to France without major issue. Not a single leak showed up from the rebuild gearbox & tbox!
Only thing to break was the front passenger window regulator, had a part shipped over and replaced it whilst still over there.
One thing I did notice was that the car was struggling to keep cruise speed (80mph) on long slow inclines with 5 occupants and a fully laden boot. Noticed that boost was down to 21psi (should normally be ~25 for the tune that's on), so had a grub around and found that some of the hose clamps were not as tight as they should be. This picked things up slightly, but on a hunch I disconnected the wastegate modulator hose and was immeidately able to achieve 33psi! (didn't do this for long).
This showed that it was actually the wastegate actuator that was struggling, I think the exhaust back pressure was causing the actuator to be forced open... the actuator was a stock one (16psi spring) with a lot of preload applied - the previous 25psi one had failed and this was what I could source at the time.
Anyhow a trip over to AET Turbos near Wakefield and I came away with a shiny Turbosmart actuator with 26psi spring pressure....
It works a charm!
Only thing to break was the front passenger window regulator, had a part shipped over and replaced it whilst still over there.
One thing I did notice was that the car was struggling to keep cruise speed (80mph) on long slow inclines with 5 occupants and a fully laden boot. Noticed that boost was down to 21psi (should normally be ~25 for the tune that's on), so had a grub around and found that some of the hose clamps were not as tight as they should be. This picked things up slightly, but on a hunch I disconnected the wastegate modulator hose and was immeidately able to achieve 33psi! (didn't do this for long).
This showed that it was actually the wastegate actuator that was struggling, I think the exhaust back pressure was causing the actuator to be forced open... the actuator was a stock one (16psi spring) with a lot of preload applied - the previous 25psi one had failed and this was what I could source at the time.
Anyhow a trip over to AET Turbos near Wakefield and I came away with a shiny Turbosmart actuator with 26psi spring pressure....
It works a charm!
ifloochies
Well-Known Member
Top work mate.
As always, love your impeccable attention to detail.
Cheers.
As always, love your impeccable attention to detail.
Cheers.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Well, the car has run sweet as a nut since the chassis swap back in July.
Other than the turbosmart wastegate I've had to do naff all. Been at a bit of a loss for things to do!
Started to have a look about to see about rebuilding a Series 3 or early Defender for my eldest lad who just turned 16 - it's actually my 11 yr old daughter who is most excited about doing a rebuild, probably more to do with getting dad time, but I think it's great.
So... all I've done is service the car, thought it time to do it since I'd noticed a bit of smoke kicking out....
New MANN rotary filter.
New Coopers Oil Filter.
New MANN air filter.
Comma X-Flow Type F 5W30 Semi Synth Oil -> http://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/view/231/XFF5L/
Oil was only £15 per 5L can!
Massive performance difference, the hybrid & tune really degrades the oil and especially air filter fast. I've only done ~ 5K miles since the last service.
Been dreaming about a Wizards of NOZ nitrous kit
Other than the turbosmart wastegate I've had to do naff all. Been at a bit of a loss for things to do!
Started to have a look about to see about rebuilding a Series 3 or early Defender for my eldest lad who just turned 16 - it's actually my 11 yr old daughter who is most excited about doing a rebuild, probably more to do with getting dad time, but I think it's great.
So... all I've done is service the car, thought it time to do it since I'd noticed a bit of smoke kicking out....
New MANN rotary filter.
New Coopers Oil Filter.
New MANN air filter.
Comma X-Flow Type F 5W30 Semi Synth Oil -> http://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/view/231/XFF5L/
Oil was only £15 per 5L can!
Massive performance difference, the hybrid & tune really degrades the oil and especially air filter fast. I've only done ~ 5K miles since the last service.
Been dreaming about a Wizards of NOZ nitrous kit
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Great thread, love the problems/fixes that you detail very well.
Quick question, why semi synth oil? I know its a bit cheaper, but for everything you have put into the motor, I would have thought fully synth would be the way to go?
Mark
Quick question, why semi synth oil? I know its a bit cheaper, but for everything you have put into the motor, I would have thought fully synth would be the way to go?
Mark
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
PAS pump has sprung a leak, there are rebuild kits available in the US but I can't be bothered to wait so have bought an OEM replacement for 130 notes.
Will post some photos when it arrives.
I also have been running without the CDL cable connected to the transfer box since the rebuild, am going to Tong this weekend so need to adjust the cable and reconnect - will also post photos of that (will be tomorrow because tonigh I'm out for a few beers with my work mob)
Will post some photos when it arrives.
I also have been running without the CDL cable connected to the transfer box since the rebuild, am going to Tong this weekend so need to adjust the cable and reconnect - will also post photos of that (will be tomorrow because tonigh I'm out for a few beers with my work mob)
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Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Replaced the PAS pump, took about an hour including photos...
First job is to remove the fan cowels, & viscous fan to aid access. Next slacken off the three 10mm bolts holding the PAS pulley to the pump - this is easier to do with the belt on and keeping tension on the pulley, but you can cross brace the pulley by putting a spanner on a second bolt whilst slackening off each one.
Once that's done the belt can come off - breaker bar with 15mm socket on the tensioner and push the bar left, slip the belt off of the main pulley wheel on the chain cover, it's the easiest place to do it.
The PAS pulley then comes off easily:
Next to save having to completely drain the system I disconnected the bigger pipe from the PAS fluid tank and twisted it over so no fluid could run out - this is much easier on a car that has no ACE. Stick a glove or bag over the pipe to catch any fluid leaks.
The low pressure pipe can then be disconnected from the PAS pump - make sure you put something underneath to catch PAS fluid because some will leak out:
Next the bolts and retaining plate can be taken off the pump and the pump lifted up high, I sat mine where the AC compressor would sit on a car with AC - this stopped most fluid leaking out of the pump:
Unclip the springclip on the remaining hose on the old pump and quickly swap onto the new pump - a small flat screw driver will unclip and a pair of pliers will pinch back together:
Turn the PAS pump flange until the rear flange aligns correctly with the water pump drive flange, mount the retaining plate and bolt it all back up:
Reconnect the low pressure pipe after inspecting/replacing the o-ring as necessary:
Refit the belt, fan cowels & viscous fan.
Reconnect the last hose on the PAS reservoir, run the engine briefly to purge any air from the system, and top the PAS fluid back up.
Job jobbed.
First job is to remove the fan cowels, & viscous fan to aid access. Next slacken off the three 10mm bolts holding the PAS pulley to the pump - this is easier to do with the belt on and keeping tension on the pulley, but you can cross brace the pulley by putting a spanner on a second bolt whilst slackening off each one.
Once that's done the belt can come off - breaker bar with 15mm socket on the tensioner and push the bar left, slip the belt off of the main pulley wheel on the chain cover, it's the easiest place to do it.
The PAS pulley then comes off easily:
Next to save having to completely drain the system I disconnected the bigger pipe from the PAS fluid tank and twisted it over so no fluid could run out - this is much easier on a car that has no ACE. Stick a glove or bag over the pipe to catch any fluid leaks.
The low pressure pipe can then be disconnected from the PAS pump - make sure you put something underneath to catch PAS fluid because some will leak out:
Next the bolts and retaining plate can be taken off the pump and the pump lifted up high, I sat mine where the AC compressor would sit on a car with AC - this stopped most fluid leaking out of the pump:
Unclip the springclip on the remaining hose on the old pump and quickly swap onto the new pump - a small flat screw driver will unclip and a pair of pliers will pinch back together:
Turn the PAS pump flange until the rear flange aligns correctly with the water pump drive flange, mount the retaining plate and bolt it all back up:
Reconnect the low pressure pipe after inspecting/replacing the o-ring as necessary:
Refit the belt, fan cowels & viscous fan.
Reconnect the last hose on the PAS reservoir, run the engine briefly to purge any air from the system, and top the PAS fluid back up.
Job jobbed.
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Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Since I had the galv chassis fitted in the summer I've not been able to engage CDL on my transfer case.
I had rebuilt a transfer box and gearbox which was fitted at the same time (see my LT230 Rebuild thread) and the garage didn't get time to adjust the CDL - I was waiting for them and had to get going.
Anyway, I decided to get it hooked back up and adjusted.
I also decided to replace the transfer tunnel cover and sound insulation, the gaitor on my tunnel was split and my foam insulation had seen better days, the result was a very noisy cab.
Here's the new bits that I snagged off of a member breaking a vehicle on here:
And here's the old foam after I've removed the center console (biut blurry sorry!):
Here's the knackered gaiter - these are out of stock everywhere now, good move LR, not.
After drilling out the rivets and disconnecting the lever from the cover, here's a view down to the CDL spigot. This is with the box in disengaged position, you can see that the cable doesn't reach far enough for the clevis pin to fit.
The first thing I tried was to wind the cable closer to the correct location by adjusting the 2 24mm nuts on the bracket, unfortunately this still wasn't enough so I decided to unbolt the bracket so that I could rotate the cable end eye and get things closer...
This got things about right but I still had to do a tiny bit of adjustment on the other end of the cable, using the clevis there, forgot to take pics but same principal. This I think shows how much variation there is between the positions of things on different cases.
Anyhow next I had to enlarge the transfer level hole on the new cover, first using the other one as a template I drilled out the four corners:
Then I cut between them with my dremel:
My sprogs decided to 'help':
Riveted back in place:
New foam on with a slight cutout for the lever motion:
Reassembled the rest and I now how CDL working again and a MUCH quieter cab.
I had rebuilt a transfer box and gearbox which was fitted at the same time (see my LT230 Rebuild thread) and the garage didn't get time to adjust the CDL - I was waiting for them and had to get going.
Anyway, I decided to get it hooked back up and adjusted.
I also decided to replace the transfer tunnel cover and sound insulation, the gaitor on my tunnel was split and my foam insulation had seen better days, the result was a very noisy cab.
Here's the new bits that I snagged off of a member breaking a vehicle on here:
And here's the old foam after I've removed the center console (biut blurry sorry!):
Here's the knackered gaiter - these are out of stock everywhere now, good move LR, not.
After drilling out the rivets and disconnecting the lever from the cover, here's a view down to the CDL spigot. This is with the box in disengaged position, you can see that the cable doesn't reach far enough for the clevis pin to fit.
The first thing I tried was to wind the cable closer to the correct location by adjusting the 2 24mm nuts on the bracket, unfortunately this still wasn't enough so I decided to unbolt the bracket so that I could rotate the cable end eye and get things closer...
This got things about right but I still had to do a tiny bit of adjustment on the other end of the cable, using the clevis there, forgot to take pics but same principal. This I think shows how much variation there is between the positions of things on different cases.
Anyhow next I had to enlarge the transfer level hole on the new cover, first using the other one as a template I drilled out the four corners:
Then I cut between them with my dremel:
My sprogs decided to 'help':
Riveted back in place:
New foam on with a slight cutout for the lever motion:
Reassembled the rest and I now how CDL working again and a MUCH quieter cab.
