F

FLZambezi

Member
hello (2004 facelift td4 manual)

Ok, so now I am being told I really should have bought a Suzuki..... shame as it’s be. Running beautifully. It even now has working AC and a soft top.

I have three amigo lights on. Isoft says it’s rear wheel speed sensor issue ( I have one so when I have a moment I’ll swap it).

But, more importantly,....

1. New heavy duty battery went on last week. Voltage drop test seemed fine. As it was slow starting. Worked fine, until today. It’s done about 500 miles no problem (mainly 20 plus miles at a time). Today she cursed me. As it wouldn’t start. Crank. Crank, crank. Battery drains. Click. Nothing.
2. When I jump started it off another car, it crank, crank, cranked then started. And wouldn’t restart more than three times off the jump start (drained again). Now just click. Trip meter reset and cd changer having a fit.
3. It wouldn’t rev below about 3.2k anyway (when running). Unusual for a bmw diesel lump.


Codes read.

1. Battery volts 11.12V. Not enough. So it can’t be charging.
2. P1260 - low side fuel pressure implausibility.
3. P1602. EWS immobilisation malfunction

So am I right in thinking

A - alternator. As it isn’t charging the battery. That set the immobiliser off (also said theft attempt).
B - low pressure fuel pump (I can hear it priming at the back so it’s doing something). That’ll be why it won’t rev properly as it can’t fuel.

Do I just set fire to it, or get more zen? Or, less dramatically, am I completely wrong (as ever)?


Thank you for any guidance .....
 
The battery will go flat if you're continuously cranking the engine to start it. It can only hold a set amount of energy, so continuously taking energy out and not putting any in will result in a flat battery.

The engine will only start if a few set criteria are met, one being low pressure fuel supply must exceed 250kPa, and preferably be over 350kPa.

Another common cause of none start is the O rings on the high pressure regulator being split or damaged. If these split, then fuel pressure in then high rail can't build enough to supply the injectors.
 
When jump starting presumably the other car was running, I'm no expert, but that I believe means there are more volts in the system than on just a charged battery.

Does this mean that the engine will turn over quicker?

Does that in turn mean the HP pump will be able to generate more pressure?

Does this mean that if there were problems starting with the O ring seals then the extra spin on the engine and pump might just have been enough to build sufficient pressure to start it?
 
GrumpyGel said:
When jump starting presumably the other car was running, I'm no expert, but that I believe means there are more volts in the system than on just a charged battery.

Does this mean that the engine will turn over quicker?

Does that in turn mean the HP pump will be able to generate more pressure?

Does this mean that if there were problems starting with the O ring seals then the extra spin on the engine and pump might just have been enough to build sufficient pressure to start it?
Click to expand...

Yes. The faster the engine cranks over, then the pump might be able to overcome the pressure loss through the O rings, giving sufficient for the engine to fire.

As the battery energy is depleted, the voltage drops and cranking speed reduces to the point where there's not enough pressure for the engine to fire.
 
Thanks guys

So we stuck battery on trickle charge.

Restarted perfectly when battery full. Quarter of a second of turning over then fired.

Low pressure fuel pump pressure 280 plus consistently. You can hear it prime for 30 seconds. Fault code left and showing same issue as before p1260 . Low side fuel pressure implausibility....

Will now rev to 3900rpm. So still a way off the redline.

Alternator light not on (don’t even know if it has one).
 
FLZambezi said:
Low pressure fuel pump pressure 280 plus consistently. You can hear it prime for 30 seconds. Fault code left and showing same issue as before p1260 . Low side fuel pressure implausibility....
Click to expand...

The fuel filter is blocked, or the low pressure fuel pump is on the way out. A good pump and clean filter will give over 360kPa, which is what the TD4 needs to run at full power.
 
Ah. Thank you. The 280k was at idle. Does it make a difference? She’ll run up to 3.9k now. And then I get a flash of EML which goes out as soon as I lower the revs below peak.
 
FLZambezi said:
The 280k was at idle. Does it make a difference?
Click to expand...

Yes. If it's only supplying 280kPa at idle (when there's virtually no fuel flowing), then it'll be dropping way down when it's being asked to supply sufficient fuel for full power operation. This would explain the flashing MIL as the revs climb, as the LP pump is unable to keep up the demand.
 
Thanks guys. As a question, for a replacement pump and filter, is that it, or is there a gaskets and seals kit that’s needed as well? And is there a balance between a cheap pattern part and an OEM (or is there an alternative quality aftermarket supplier.).
 
It is highly recommended on this forum to avoid the cheap fuel pumps as they are generally considered to be really problematic and short-lived. Go for the OEM Pierburg pump. I don't know of any gaskets or seals in particular, but I'm fairly sure there's some O ring seals involved.
 
Thank you.

I now have a boot full of bits. Got married, went on honeymoon and came back, jumped in and then.... clutch to floor...

the slave cylinders leaking. So that’s beyond me.

Anyone have a good reliable specialist who will do

clutch
Slave/master/flywheel
Fuel pump
And stick a new VCU in it

At least then I know it’s right ....

ideally Surrey based, but prepared to travel if someone good and fair on price (not looking for cheapest, looking for a decent job at decent money).....

All in one go....

Any recommendations gratefully received

Oh well, I knew I wasn’t buying it to save money ;)
 
So that was expensive...

LUK clutch and flywheel and cylinders
bell VCU (reminds me, must send other one back to Bell)
Brake pipes
OEM quality Discs and pads
Pierburg Fuel pump and Mahle filter
New wheel bearings (garage who supposedly replaced one in July may well not have done, which is disappointing..)
Engine bay surface corrosion sorted

Hopefully it’s OK for a while now !
 
FLZambezi said:
So that was expensive...

LUK clutch and flywheel and cylinders
bell VCU (reminds me, must send other one back to Bell)
Brake pipes
OEM quality Discs and pads
Pierburg Fuel pump and Mahle filter
New wheel bearings (garage who supposedly replaced one in July may well not have done, which is disappointing..)
Engine bay surface corrosion sorted

Hopefully it’s OK for a while now !
Click to expand...
:eek:
 
Oh and some other miscellaneous things like track rods (cable tied...) .... it may as well be done right if it’s got it’s innards out....
 
Nope. It’s still crapping its battery charge

It’s bee spot on. Then I got in it yesterday and had battery light on with ignition. Went out the second i touched the throttle.

Drove. Within 15 seconds three amigos... here we go again....

Then won’t pull. SRS, fuel light, every electrically linked warning light went off. Dials went. Throttle response zero.

Battery dead. Has done 30 mile journeys and been right.

Whipped it out - Put it on my smart charger and it was low. Charged overnight. So let’s throw it back on this morning.

BUT the issue isn’t that. The issue is why it’s dropping battery charge so quick. I am fairly sure the alternator worked fine when we checked it. And it’s been fine for a while. The battery is brand new. So what’s causing the problem... can a bad earth mean you lose battery. Do I have a parasitic drain (I did have heated seat and AC (to dehumidify) on yesterday, but that surely goes off when the ignition goes off (light goes out). I can’t find an interior light left on.... and three hours before it was ‘dead’ it was absolutely spot on.

Advice always welcomed.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Aargh,

1. Brand new nice 13mm socket from lovely new matching toolkit fell off ratchet and into engine bay somewhere) Parked over mud (it’s everywhere this weekend and car has had to be left where it died). Can’t see socket anywhere and can’t get under car without looking like a monster from a horror movie. Christ knows where that socket is. But you know the moment the car moves it’ll fall out via the launchpad of the tray and be lost for ever.
2. Lift battery ourt of my good car. Battery Caught my leg and corner of battery dented in the door aperture opening in of my nice car. Double aaargh.
3.oh well, it’ll work now. No. Click. Nothing. Triple aaarggh.
4. Bring battery home. Thoroughly annoyed. Put battery on charger. 13.7V. So should be enough, But it won’t even turn over. Just click and no.

So what gives...?

(Apart from just giving up this morning. I am definitely the statue today).
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
Series 2 won’t start!! Help!
Replies
5
Views
573
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
O
Series 2 won’t start! Please help xx
Replies
14
Views
1K
Anaconda
A
H
Steering column locked
Replies
3
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
A
A loose bolt on CAM sensor
2 3
Replies
44
Views
3K
Arctic2
Arctic2
G
None starting discovery td5
Replies
0
Views
515
gary dhenin
G