nrgserv said:
isnt a leisure battery slow charge / slow discharge?
didnt think they liked 40A of glow plug and 500A of starter shoved across the terminals.
to do with bending the plates inside.
Click to expand...

Some leisure batterys are traditional "leisures" ones which are designed for deep cycling but don't like too high a current at any one time. But more recently, you can get batteries that do both things - deep cycling and starting. They tend to always be a little more expensive.

Marine cranking amps aren't the same as cold cranking amps, but still gives a reasonable indication. 1000 MCA --> 750 CCA, approx, although its not a direct conversion because the temperatures they're measured at etc is different.

I don't know if the type 072 (600CCA, 70-75AH) is sufficient and that anything bigger is just overkill, but I thought I'd play it safe and try install the biggest I can find, that fits. In addition to anticipating another cold winter, I'll be running a 12000lbs winch so I might well make use of the extra capacity. To this end, I've purchased a type 250/334 which is 90AH and 800CCA, for £75 inc free delivery.
 
so just out of interest and to complicate things further, whats the difference
between a marine ca and cold ca?
or the definition?
 
Google says:

Cold cranking amps (CCA) is the amount of current a battery can provide at 0 °F (−18 °C). The rating is defined as the amperage a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery).

Cranking amperes (CA), also sometimes referred to as marine cranking amperes (MCA), is the amount of current a battery can provide at 32 °F (0 °C). The rating is defined as the number of amperes a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery).

Couldn't find anything official on "Cold Start Marine Cranking Amps".
 
nathan5346 said:
Id av thort theres a diff between marine and normal leisure maybe not?
Click to expand...


Marine users tend not to hook up so often to the mains, and boats can be bigger than eg caravans, so will accommodate 8 people, and have more lighting etc so its a bigger power requirement. Most larger modern canal boats will have a bank of about 5 batteries. Many people would also leave the engine running to generate power, though, if they didn't have multiple batteries. Once you get into yachts etc they typically have a built in generator.
 
Not many boats will be out and about at -0c or below but motor vehicles are that's why basically there is a difference in the two batteries as explaned above in Paul c's post.
Although no doubt a Marine battery will turn the engine over but they are not the 1000cca in an auto environment.
 
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nrgserv said:
so you engage gear without trying to go anywhere, it dies?
or
you engage gear and try to go somewhere, and it dies?

i'm now confused with truck behind you:confused:
Click to expand...

nrgserv..off coz i engage gear trying to go somewhere...either forward or reverse...but most of the time when put to R she dies off especially if i didnt press the pedal bcoz sometimes the gap between the TRUCK behind me is short...so i have to move slowly without pressing the pedal....to move out from the parking space.....mmmm

and for ur guys info,ive already change fuel filter,clean out the fuel sedimenter and check the rubber elbow....but guess what.. s@#t still happens....and Worst! just after the service she diess OFFF in the middle of trafiic jam...so i was stuck on the road for 2 hours waiting for help....all people honking me like HELLL.....oh GODD..i wish i never changed the filter or watever...coz it never dies off like this for 2 hours...if it dies it can be started back just in minutes..but yesterday she just wouldnt start at alll....so later the mechanic came with a new battery...n WaLLa! she starts back....he said low battery.....

but the thing happens again even today...when put to R....but it wont cut off if i switch off the A/C.....so mates ....whats wrong with her..???:confused::(:doh:
 
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the battery guy said altenator ok...he just check it by pulling off the ground cable of batery while the engine is running...if the engine cuts out means alternator defective...if she maintains running..altenator is fine...is this true mates...???:frusty:
 
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apart from the alternator...mates..what is the correct idling rpm(speed) for 1996 disco 1 2.5L 300tdi without the aircond running...????
 
niceguyz said:
the battery guy said altenator ok...he just check it by pulling off the ground cable of batery while the engine is running...if the engine cuts out means alternator defective...if she maintains running..altenator is fine...is this true mates...???:frusty:
Click to expand...


That test's a load of rubbish! Its a very crude test that checks one thing, and in doing so risks damage to the alternator's regulator. Alternators must always be run with a battery or a load connected, and a digital multimeter doesn't react fast enough to show certain types of fault (where the voltage flutters). There's a basic check of observing voltages with/without the engine running, to see the alternator's generating some power; and if you can, use an ammeter to check its output current. But for a 100% health check other tests need to be done too.
 
thanks mr paul_c ..damn that batery guy...i hope theres no damage to my alternator..well 2moro im going to give it a check with an electrician....and anbody knows whats the correct rpm for tdi300 auto when running at idling speed without aircond..???
 
niceguyz said:
thanks mr paul_c ..damn that batery guy...i hope theres no damage to my alternator..well 2moro im going to give it a check with an electrician....and anbody knows whats the correct rpm for tdi300 auto when running at idling speed without aircond..???
Click to expand...


720 rpm + or - 20. for an engine at normal running temp.
 
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