Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Don’t forget to see if they can make more of these door hinges. Just think of future sales 
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Don’t forget to see if they can make more of these door hinges. Just think of future sales
Can make as many as needed! Couple sets free shipping as gets thrown in with their larger orders
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
The RRS seats arrived, a little larger than expected
Mocked up sitting on some blocks on 100m oak. Looks like ill have to fabricate a seatbox if I want to use them
Very comfortable, nice back support and great having the middle cubby but not huge leg room... Fine for kids but bit great for adults. That said the middle seat is actually useable now where it wasnt before due to the sub.
Not actually that much worse than the stock seats, these just stick out 2"s further
Mocked up sitting on some blocks on 100m oak. Looks like ill have to fabricate a seatbox if I want to use them
Very comfortable, nice back support and great having the middle cubby but not huge leg room... Fine for kids but bit great for adults. That said the middle seat is actually useable now where it wasnt before due to the sub.
Not actually that much worse than the stock seats, these just stick out 2"s further
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Making the RRS seats fit is going to be quite the task!
Current plan is to fabricate a new seatbox to sit in place. Will also incorporate my underseat drawer system, which now can be much larger, so much more storage!
The new seatbox will be fixed down at the rear via the existing seatbelt mounts. Seatbelt mounts will be fixed on top - (Cant see this being a safety issue but let me know if it is)
Front will be with M10 rivnuts - Good enough for the front seats so good enough for the rear. Either way itll be more solid that it is now.
Ive also got to strip the folding seat mechanism down and add another notch so the seats can sit at ~100 degree angle instead of the current max recline, which is too much. Removes all leg room!
Will only know how when I actually strip it down which involves cutting and rewelding. Plus some other minor modifcations to the RRS seats.
Also looking into taking roughly 2" off the depth of the seat bases and having them retrimmed, again to aid the legroom situation.
If it doesnt work out then I loose the RRS seats - Not a massive deal as they where not expensive. Having my own seatbox will mean I can choose some other slimmer seats such as Renault Scenic. Not as plush but hey!
Current plan is to fabricate a new seatbox to sit in place. Will also incorporate my underseat drawer system, which now can be much larger, so much more storage!
The new seatbox will be fixed down at the rear via the existing seatbelt mounts. Seatbelt mounts will be fixed on top - (Cant see this being a safety issue but let me know if it is)
Front will be with M10 rivnuts - Good enough for the front seats so good enough for the rear. Either way itll be more solid that it is now.
Ive also got to strip the folding seat mechanism down and add another notch so the seats can sit at ~100 degree angle instead of the current max recline, which is too much. Removes all leg room!
Will only know how when I actually strip it down which involves cutting and rewelding
. Plus some other minor modifcations to the RRS seats.Also looking into taking roughly 2" off the depth of the seat bases and having them retrimmed, again to aid the legroom situation.
If it doesnt work out then I loose the RRS seats - Not a massive deal as they where not expensive. Having my own seatbox will mean I can choose some other slimmer seats such as Renault Scenic. Not as plush but hey!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Newy newness!
Lovely wide angle HD rear prop direct from Bailey Morris! (Id worn the yokes out on mine!)
Also picked these up at the VERYVERY WET Kelmarsh
Set of rear axle hardline replacements. Braided SS. Mainly got them to make working on the rear 100x easier. Now I can just lay the caliper on the floor, get on with what ever task and not worry about breaking a copper line!
Lovely wide angle HD rear prop direct from Bailey Morris! (Id worn the yokes out on mine!)
Also picked these up at the VERYVERY WET Kelmarsh
Set of rear axle hardline replacements. Braided SS. Mainly got them to make working on the rear 100x easier. Now I can just lay the caliper on the floor, get on with what ever task and not worry about breaking a copper line!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Not well lol. Working on the canopy first, more pressing!
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
@bankz5152
Are you going back to the T piece with the SS lines?
Are you going back to the T piece with the SS lines?
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Yeah thats the plan!
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Will wait for the photos then
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
I know I'm going back a few posts but regarding the crank sensor, it's also worth recabling it back to the ECU with some decent shielded twisted pair, the stock wiring is fairly susceptible to interference which can cause all manor of inexplicable symptoms. (the shielding isn't really essential tbh unless you earth it).
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
I have read that before. May even have been your thread! Though at the time it was fix and go, didnt really have time for a rewire but if anything crops up again I will!
Thanks
I'm dying to see the RR seat install.
Still an epic build mate.
Still an epic build mate.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
Same here
Ive pretty much worked out what I need for the secure canopy/hood project which I plan to get started in a couple weeks. Simplified the design a touch so shouldnt take long.
Once thats done going to start on the seats which is going to be quite the task!
Seatbox should be easy enough to weld up. Going to clad it with some carpeted ali sheet, secured with some rivnuts for access.
Got a few days off after my holiday so may tear into the seat recline mech
see if I can get them to sit at a nice 100degree or so angle to suit the DCPUs limited space. If I cant itll just be welded in position, not ideal but needs must.While im off will pop down to the trim place see if they can shave an inch or two off the seat base to help the legroom issue!
My matea are looking forward to it and hoping its done before we go to Span haha
Finishing touches will be wiring up the heated seat bits to the original LR loom which currently isnt used. As well as some USB and 12v sockets in the micro cubby box. Oh and some seat covers
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
So did some basic drawings for the seatbox, i wont post a pic because they are very poor
Should only be roughly £170 in materials including the under seat drawer.
Plan of action so far is -
Get the side open rear door sorted when I get back in 10 days. Got everything I need now so should be quite simple.
That said may have to do a bit of body work due to being rear ended last year though should be minimal.
Following weekend NJI boot lid is coming off and fitting the canopy. Wil take some final measurements then order the steel for that. Again should be quite straight forward should get finished the following weekend.
Hopefully also get the central locking fitted. Also worked out how to lock the NJI boot lid off the central locking too.
Ill see how the tan looks, if i dont like it then buzzwelds PIO will solve that
Ordered the HD zips (14mm when shut! So meaty zips!) To replace the LONG method of rope n ties!
Then finally will get working on the rear seats!
Should only be roughly £170 in materials including the under seat drawer.
Plan of action so far is -
Get the side open rear door sorted when I get back in 10 days. Got everything I need now so should be quite simple.
That said may have to do a bit of body work due to being rear ended last year
though should be minimal.Following weekend NJI boot lid is coming off and fitting the canopy. Wil take some final measurements then order the steel for that. Again should be quite straight forward should get finished the following weekend.
Hopefully also get the central locking fitted. Also worked out how to lock the NJI boot lid off the central locking too.
Ill see how the tan looks, if i dont like it then buzzwelds PIO will solve that
Ordered the HD zips (14mm when shut! So meaty zips!) To replace the LONG method of rope n ties!
Then finally will get working on the rear seats!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Started working on the side open tailgate today. Stripped the wheel carrier off doesnt look fantastic
Filled the holes with some body filler. Not sure how well they will last...
My attempt at painting it has not gone very well at all... Will try and blend tomorrow when dry if not, Tcut it to bits lol
Cut the steel to reinforce the door go to weld and its out of gas was 1/4 last i checked...
Annoyed and slowed me down.
Filled the holes with some body filler. Not sure how well they will last...
My attempt at painting it has not gone very well at all... Will try and blend tomorrow when dry if not, Tcut it to bits lol
Cut the steel to reinforce the door go to weld and its out of gas
was 1/4 last i checked... Annoyed and slowed me down.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
did you use mesh on back of holes?Started working on the side open tailgate today. Stripped the wheel carrier off doesnt look fantastic
View attachment 186679
View attachment 186684
Filled the holes with some body filler. Not sure how well they will last...
My attempt at painting it has not gone very well at all... Will try and blend tomorrow when dry if not, Tcut it to bits lol
Cut the steel to reinforce the door go to weld and its out of gas
Annoyed and slowed me down.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
have a look at my build thread ( the fibrepatch) place on rear of hole then use filler on front (else filler will just fall out after you hit the first bump)
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-90-project.301491/page-12
get it from screwfux! Wonderful stuff!
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-90-project.301491/page-12
get it from screwfux! Wonderful stuff!
