Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Better to chop the paint off the steps than take paint off the bodywork
Not seen a loom in that plastic wrap before. Did the change this on TD5?
Not seen a loom in that plastic wrap before. Did the change this on TD5?
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Exactly that! Glad I had them!
Yeah standard on the TD5s+ which is nice!
Decided while the 110 will be up in the air for some welding. May as well sort the other patches that need doing, mostly the rear under seat xmember bit.
And touch up the underseal before winter fully sets in.
Galvy chassis on the cards at some point?Few more pics of the hole
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Anddd took a fair bit of paint off the sliderAt least they did their job! Guess raptor isnt up to rocks haha
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bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Dont know tbf, certainly wont be doing myself at this stage without more space. Not fond of a 6K bill either....
So not for now.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
So question time @bankz5152
How have you fixed the rock slider to the chassis? (Bracket design photo as well please)
Did use 1 length for the step,notch out & bend Or cut & weld?
Unsure if you posted any photos
(Its just so I can get my brain cell into gear to see if you make these into a drop down step with a few modifications)
Thanks for any info
How have you fixed the rock slider to the chassis? (Bracket design photo as well please)
Did use 1 length for the step,notch out & bend Or cut & weld?
Unsure if you posted any photos
(Its just so I can get my brain cell into gear to see if you make these into a drop down step with a few modifications)
Thanks for any info
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
It was one piece, laser cut, press braked and some manual bending with tabs. Brackets and gussets welded in afterwards.
Fits to the car like everyone elses, one fixing on the bulkhead bolt. Couple on the outriger.
I see what youre thinking and I quite like that idea and I have thought about it. But trying tk create a true rockslider/drop step would be very costly and a very limited market. Possibly me
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Today got very stressful. What started out as a fairly small hole with a plan, got bigger and bigger.
Even heavy taps with a pointed hammer didnt reveal much. However as soon as the welder touched it was like a lighter on a rizzla... hence the multiple patches.
The hole got bigger...
Also first time welding overhead, 2nd time on a chassis, 2nd time on questionable material so dont be mean (or just shut your eyes
)
I did add an extra gusset to the ARB. All replacement steel was 3mm. Give it a better chance at lasting and a tad easier to weld.
Certainly not the easiest thing ive done. Also shocking considering it had a read 1/4 3 years ago!!! Zero treatment clearly!
I did not grind down welds, as honestly i could not be bothered (if you look you can see where i gave up caring) a reminder to do better next time
I did however wire wheel everything, clean, and is Passiv8 (heavy zinc weldthru primer) inside and out. Finished with a thick coat if WAR.
Hopefully lasts a few years but I forsee another rear 1/4 or a new chassis.... may start saving...
I was going to refit the rear ARB but of course I lost the ball joint nuts and of course the are metric fine not standard
So next week.
Even heavy taps with a pointed hammer didnt reveal much. However as soon as the welder touched it was like a lighter on a rizzla... hence the multiple patches.
The hole got bigger...
Also first time welding overhead, 2nd time on a chassis, 2nd time on questionable material so dont be mean (or just shut your eyes
)I did add an extra gusset to the ARB. All replacement steel was 3mm. Give it a better chance at lasting and a tad easier to weld.
Certainly not the easiest thing ive done. Also shocking considering it had a read 1/4 3 years ago!!! Zero treatment clearly!
I did not grind down welds, as honestly i could not be bothered (if you look you can see where i gave up caring
) a reminder to do better next time I did however wire wheel everything, clean, and is Passiv8 (heavy zinc weldthru primer) inside and out. Finished with a thick coat if WAR.
Hopefully lasts a few years but I forsee another rear 1/4 or a new chassis.... may start saving...
I was going to refit the rear ARB but of course I lost the ball joint nuts and of course the are metric fine not standard
So next week.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Yeah not enjoyable! I only caught fire twice, car one once
Just cant believe how thin the metal got over such a short period! I even considered pulling out the Tig!
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
You want to see some of the things I have built.. just for fun or to see if it works.
My tube/box bending skills improved but as for welding someone else always done this while I was on metal work. I get arc eye very easily… so like to stay away from the bright light as much as possible.
When I’m out walking the dog this is when my brain comes up with the theory. Out comes the cardboard for the practice
My tube/box bending skills improved but as for welding someone else always done this while I was on metal work. I get arc eye very easily… so like to stay away from the bright light as much as possible.
When I’m out walking the dog this is when my brain comes up with the theory. Out comes the cardboard for the practice
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
You see my Hicap… it really a special.these are a few changes and to the untrained eye every thing is standard…
I can turn tighter than you & fit in smaller space
This was my last road project.
But done a few off road racers upto 8years ago when I hung the spanners up for fun stuff.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
For the first time the 110 has angered me beyond belief.
Monday, started to get a bit difficult to change gears, bit notchy. I thought maybe the pedals lost some adjustment or needs a bit of a bleed. By the time I got home I was having to turn the engine off, select a gear, engine back on to park. Could get first or reverse with the engine running.
Limped to work Tuesday. Bled the clutch, checked the adjustment (no change).
Still the same. Wedged the pedal down over night. Still the same.
Limped to work today. Took the slave off. No oil leaks, moves fine, checked the master, no oil leaks moves fine. Bled again.
Tried the LR official method for pedal setting. Impossible to get gears.
Went back to my method, just about get first.
You can feel the clutch isnt disengaging.
Drive home today. No crunching into gears and having to rev match.
On top of that headlights have lost all adjustment some how so high beams in the heavens and of course the adjustment screa are rotten.
Monday, started to get a bit difficult to change gears, bit notchy. I thought maybe the pedals lost some adjustment or needs a bit of a bleed. By the time I got home I was having to turn the engine off, select a gear, engine back on to park. Could get first or reverse with the engine running.
Limped to work Tuesday. Bled the clutch, checked the adjustment (no change).
Still the same. Wedged the pedal down over night. Still the same.
Limped to work today. Took the slave off. No oil leaks, moves fine, checked the master, no oil leaks moves fine. Bled again.
Tried the LR official method for pedal setting. Impossible to get gears.
Went back to my method, just about get first.
You can feel the clutch isnt disengaging.
Drive home today. No crunching into gears and having to rev match.
On top of that headlights have lost all adjustment some how so high beams in the heavens and of course the adjustment screa are rotten.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Very unlikely being a td5 and give the fork was brand new when the clutch was done.
And the the pushrod is still attached to the fork. So it can only be air or yet anothdr failed slave and master.
So much so im strongly considering a 6hp/8hp
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Is your fork reinforced on the pivot point?
They used to break on the cup and slowly fail
They used to break on the cup and slowly fail
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Keep at it mate, you'll get her straight 
I picked another 110 up last week
I picked another 110 up last week
