KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
LR has issued a new standard for durability testing the "joshtest' we have yet to see how many suppliers do in this space,
News just in ......Britpart and Terrafirma have ceased trading as a result.
News just in ......Britpart and Terrafirma have ceased trading as a result.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
That’s some torque… think as all your stuff is HD when it goes,it goes well…
Form them pics I would say the shaft splines would not give way and expanded while been twisted. Once it was wedged in the stub that’s when it snapped the shaft.
(See a cheap end cap would have blown the splines & saved you time)
still love all your updates & testing of parts
Form them pics I would say the shaft splines would not give way and expanded while been twisted. Once it was wedged in the stub that’s when it snapped the shaft.
(See a cheap end cap would have blown the splines & saved you time)
still love all your updates & testing of parts
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
love it built in redundacy and sacrificial parts selection due to extreme driver superb!!!!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Yeah standard shafts, that one only went in in December!Tbf I like the look of the HD flanges! They worked well on my old 110. Often talked about is having cheap flanges or even cutting a few splines off them to make them specifically weaker but that can cause its own issues because the shafts start to fret and cause premature wear and thus break under minimal load!
Quite impressive how you can see the shaft has almost done a full 360 before snapping and exploding!
I also don't really want to fit HD shafts & CVs because that will just translate the shock further down the line resulting in a blown diff or box. So may keep the 600nm slow blow fuses
Also never really an issue only takes an hour to change a shaft & CV only a touch longer for bearings/stub axles just depends if I have the parts on hand!
It was definitely not because I had in pinned in 3rd low on the limiter at 34psi of boost going over large ruts in a 2.7 ton truck
Those HD CVs are seriously expensive too. I agree with the above - I reckon if you hadve had cheap members they would’ve cheesed up first. Do you decide where the weakest link is to be and make it the cheapest part lol? Like you said, go HD with the shafts and it could just end up smashing diff or transfer. Watching this with interest as I got a torquey build planned for mine!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Oem flanges dont have the best tolerances so you do get a fair bit of fretting and transmission slap. Fairly reduced with the HD flanges!
Think ill stick with britpart shafts and CVs takes a fair bit of lead foot and shockload to actually break them and 9/10 its the short side!
Long side has enough length it can twist far more before actually snapping.
That’s interesting. I was so snobby that it was gkn or nothing for me and I only drive across fields.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
I used to be the same until the price went thru the roof and there was almost no difference in quality to Britpart...
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Joy of joys. Thought Id take the 110 out for a a bit, got all of 10 meters before I heard an unsettling slapping noise...
And the crank pulley is seconds away from letting go
So need to replace that now
On the hand made another snorkel & airbox for a D2, with a little custom touch for the intake grill. He called his 90 "The Donkey" which is sadly being sold soon so it lives on with the D2!
And the crank pulley is seconds away from letting go
So need to replace that now
On the hand made another snorkel & airbox for a D2, with a little custom touch for the intake grill. He called his 90 "The Donkey" which is sadly being sold soon so it lives on with the D2!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
After Empire tuning had my new crank pulley delivered in record time I set about changing it. Not actually a bad job really!
I did have to make a tool to lock the crank pully in place, eas enough to do. Put it in low range 5th for good measure.
2m breaker bar and off it came.
Old one is how you say fubar....
New one is on + new corteco seal.
Now need to borrow someones torque wrench to ensure its fully done up!
I did have to make a tool to lock the crank pully in place, eas enough to do. Put it in low range 5th for good measure.
2m breaker bar and off it came.
Old one is how you say fubar....
New one is on + new corteco seal.
Now need to borrow someones torque wrench to ensure its fully done up!
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Question..
Is it a special process to bleed brakes? As you have abs.(iv not had anything to do with abs)
Did you pry the pads back & confuse the shuttle valve ?
Do you have to set the height of the sensor?
Thanks for your knowledge
Is it a special process to bleed brakes? As you have abs.(iv not had anything to do with abs)
Did you pry the pads back & confuse the shuttle valve ?
Do you have to set the height of the sensor?
Thanks for your knowledge
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
When changing pads i have never had an issue after.
Sensor height is set by an air gap. So push it in as far as it goes, spin the wheel and thats that.
Bleeding can done as you would a normal car, or you can use powerbleed function on nanocom which is amazing. Just crack the nipple push a button and its done!
If you change the modulator then afaik you have to use Nanocom/diagnostics to fully bleed it.
