That green link leads nowhere, i'm trying to help you but it seems that you insist to ignore what i said and you keep up with that throttleling on start up which i said many times that it's not a good move, it doesnt help at all with the diagnose nor with anything else, on the contrary, though you could rule out a simple thing if you dont ignore(or misunderstand) what i said here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...migos-m-s-flashing.379088/page-8#post-5372557
Neptune19522 said:
A third possibility is that the ECU is learning and accepting the conditions under it is now working, in other words it is learning the new vehicle it is in
Click to expand...
No such possibility, the addaptive strategy of the ECU is not a learning curve it's about addapting the fuelling to make it optimal based on stored values in memory and sensor inputs in real time while the engine is running... belive me or not, good luck
 
You did suggest that I try two throttle pump before starting, so I tried it and the problem is still there.

I have not consciously tried to dismiss anything you say and if you feel affronted then I apologise.

I have commented that you and PopPops have both sent the same link regarding the injector seals. It seems a very good explanation and leaves the 'official' workshop manual standing... The parts will be ordered this afternoon and fitted as soon as they arrive. However this weekend I need to drive 70 miles and back and would value your opinion, as indeed I value PopPops opinion, as to what damage, if any, I would cause to the vehicle? I could use my 44 year old, leaf sprung, Series III if the D2 would be damaged for such a journey but clearly the D2 would be a more comfortable ride!
 
Neptune19522 said:
You did suggest that I try two throttle pump before starting, so I tried it and the problem is still there.
Click to expand...
i never suggested that. That's why i guoted my earlyest reply where it's about the 5 throttle purge sequence and flashing MIL which has to stop before you crank it
 
Neptune19522 said:
You did suggest that I try two throttle pump before starting, so I tried it and the problem is still there.
Click to expand...
If you check post 151, Fery said to switch to ignition position 2 then pump the throttle 5 times before attempting to start after the MIL light has stopped flashing.

Neptune19522 said:
......and would value your opinion, as indeed I value PopPops opinion, as to what damage, if any, I would cause to the vehicle? I could use my 44 year old, leaf sprung, Series III if the D2 would be damaged for such a journey but clearly the D2 would be a more comfortable ride!
Click to expand...
What a question!! As the cause of the problem is not yet fully known, it is impossible to say with certainty what will happen during your 70 mile drive. However, if the underlying problem is injector seals, it is unlikely actual damage would be caused, however, it is not unknown for the engine to stop and be unable to be restarted, leaving you stranded perhaps. However, this seems to be a long existing underlying problem, if I read your posts correctly, so really, it is your call. I don't want to be responsible for advice that causes you to use your Series III, or your being stranded!:):):):)
 
Started to replace the injector seals. Whoever worked on this engine did not have a torque wrench but possibly a big power bar!
I have found four injectors with green top's and one with black top! Would I be correct in thinking that this is not a good thing? Should I just replace the one injector or all five?
 
Neptune19522 said:
Started to replace the injector seals. Whoever worked on this engine did not have a torque wrench but possibly a big power bar!
I have found four injectors with green top's and one with black top! Would I be correct in thinking that this is not a good thing? Should I just replace the one injector or all five?
Click to expand...
That’s not good, from the point of view the PO was prepared to mix injectors. Also, none of the bolts on mine were too tight.

I’m assuming you don’t have a 10P engine, then you should have all green top injectors. In theory, you can “just get” a green top injector and use the Nanocom to recode the ECM with the new injector code, which is on the top of the injector. Your new ECM should have been coded with the codes of your injectors anyway, so it’s something you will need to do.

Well done getting where you are so far!
 
PopPops,
Thanks for your support. I did not find any bolts lose; quite the opposite; I was close to grinding the heads off...
Big question, and I would appreciate your opinion as well as Fery; should I replace the one black one or all five? Got the resources but don't want to purchase unnecessary parts!
 
PopPops,
Just reread your message - something people with Dyslexia, like me, need to do - and realised that you did indicate that to replace one injector is all right in principal but would five refurbished ones be better?
 
I think you may be OK with one green injector but it appears the previous owner messed it up and sold it to pass on the issues.

I would check all the codes
 
I am now in a hiatus now as I have order new bolts and soon will order a new, refurbished, injector; not to mention a e-bay bid in for a slide hammer. So it looks like a week driving my Series III. Once back together I will confirm that all codes line up. With luck this errant injector may be the problem because everything I read indicates that black and green should not be mixed!
 
Neptune19522 said:
PopPops,
Thanks for your support. I did not find any bolts lose; quite the opposite; I was close to grinding the heads off...
Big question, and I would appreciate your opinion as well as Fery; should I replace the one black one or all five? Got the resources but don't want to purchase unnecessary parts!
Click to expand...
 
Neptune19522 said:
PopPops,
Thanks for your support. I did not find any bolts lose; quite the opposite; I was close to grinding the heads off...
Big question, and I would appreciate your opinion as well as Fery; should I replace the one black one or all five? Got the resources but don't want to purchase unnecessary parts!
Click to expand...
You are welcome - we all want your Disco to be working again the way it was when it left the factory.

If you wanted to spend your money, you could have the injectors tested/refurbished, but from what I remember of your Nanocom recordings, the injector balance wasn't bad, so the green injectors are probably OK.

Most use a modified allen key/water pump pliers. I got a slide hammer as I saw one cheap on eBay a few years ago and thought I'd need it sooner or later and could sell it again after. Pity I'm nowhere near you as you would be welcome to borrow mine.

It's possible the previous owner was the cause of most of your problems!

Good luck, you will get it sorted!
 
I spent the first half my working life fixing up broken vehicles and did expect some problems but overnight bolts and just plain incompetence I was not expecting. Still I should have a good engine, and a depleted bank account soon!
Re slide hammer if I get outbid a trip to places South might be the way around the problem of extracting the injectors; still I know that I can experiment on one...
 
Neptune19522 said:
I spent the first half my working life fixing up broken vehicles and did expect some problems but overnight bolts and just plain incompetence I was not expecting. Still I should have a good engine, and a depleted bank account soon!
Re slide hammer if I get outbid a trip to places South might be the way around the problem of extracting the injectors; still I know that I can experiment on one...
Click to expand...
A flaw in that plan, by “nowhere near you” I meant we are in our place in SW France where I have a Landybarn where I can play with the Disco when I eventually get through wifey’s endless list of jobs…. (to start on the Disco’s endless list of jobs).

When we’re in the uk we do pass your area now and then on our way to number 1 daughter in Chester.

Nothing’s simple….
 
Neptune19522 said:
Should I just replace the one injector or all five?
Click to expand...
Replace the wrong injector with a green top one then refit the whole thing as in the.book... for a 100% well made job you need new strech bolts for the rocker shaft too (according to the engine's builders) even if nobody seems to care about that:cool:
 
Fery,
I was going to replace the bolts anyway but now because some Gorilla tighten them up, I very nearly had to resort to grinding two of them off, they all be be replaced! Six new ones are on order as well as five injector bolts for the same reason; they were only rounded a bit, but still worth replacing. I do hope that this errant injector is the cause of some of my problems as I suspect it the previous owner was happy to put the wrong injector in I suspect that he did not code it. The 'new' ECU has amplified that error.
 
I hope that the real problem was a combustion leak through the copper washers, i reiterate this post again https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...migos-m-s-flashing.379088/page-8#post-5372557 and i beg you to concentrate when you read it cos it seems that you misundertood first time. Good luck

PS another sign of leaking washers is if the air bleed valve is full of muck like in this picture but you better replace that too anyway

Air bleed valve.jpg
 
If you have a set of Allen keys one of them should be fine as is to remove the injectors
 
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