M

Mamasbigtruck

Member
One for the lock guru's

I have searched the forum for an answer, but found nothing quite like what Tallulah is suffering from. Also studied Rave but no answer.

Pushing lock button on remote locks all doors and alarm sets, sometimes though passenger front will not lock.

Pushing unlock on remote unlocks rear doors not fronts, so key needs to be used as well.

Unlocking or locking with key does not operate any other door.

Pushing inside lock button down on drivers door does not operate locking, Pushing passenger side down sometimes does.

I suppose this is linked as I cannot sync one of my keys, I also suppose I can't use the EKA code but not tried.

The Chassis number states it's a 97my, It was registered very late 96, I believe I have seen there are 2 ways to sync keys.
 
Not a lock guru but I have had a play in the past. Can you get diagnostic like a Nanocom on it? Read fault codes / input voltages. Input votages should all read 12V apart from the central locking (L&R) which should be GRD.

Might be worth checking where the wires come out of the door and go into the A post. A likely place for them to break.

If you haven't got diagnostics you can whip the door trims off and check the voltages there. The outstation has 5 wires coming out for the central locking. On a '95 model (I assume later ones are similar but check RAVE) With the door open:

Blue / red = 5V [key switch]
Red / green = 5V [door ajar]
Purple / white = 0V [door ajar]
Pink / black = 0V [Lock motor] This should pulse on key button.
Orange / black = 0V [central locking] This should pulse on key button.
Orange / pink = 0V [superlock - you might consider snipping this one!]

Black = earth. 0V but you'll see a voltage when you trigger with the key or similar.

Probably worth cleaning and oiling everything up. If the mechanism is stiff that could cause issues. Initial guess would be a dodgy connection / wire somewhere though.

J
 
Thanks guys, Nanocom I would love but £££ are not spare

I had a look at door wiring to Passenger door while I was sorting window regulator,

The wires obviously split off as less wires go into door than emerge at outstation.

Wish I could effectively remove alarm and immobiliser and just end up with remote central locking.
 
Mamasbigtruck said:
Thanks guys, Nanocom I would love but £££ are not spare

Lookup Mozz (Smith?). He seems to have a directory of people with one. There may be someone near you.

Wish I could effectively remove alarm and immobiliser and just end up with remote central locking.
Click to expand...

You and the rest of the world! Nanocom can disable some features but not all.
 
phildog75 said:
I had same issues in the end fitted 2 new door lock actuators and problem solved !
Click to expand...

Yep, I recently replaced both front motors in my doors. Tip - buy the rears (cheaper) and just swap the little motors over. In fact if you can be bothered and need to test it you could remove the rear locks and swap the motors into the front ones to test if they are faulty.
 
One little question, I take it the rear locks don't have the little micro switches in.

Drivers front has 3, passenger front has 2

It's these that have gone wrong with both my front locks. bought a brand new drivers lock so sorted that. Just need to sort passenger out now.
 
The micro switches and the motors burn out because of the RF receiver have you had power drain ie battery going flat over a few days?
 
I had problems with two doors realised I had wrong rf receiver which was the root cause of the failed door locks. Changed that and two second hand door locks. Resynched key all fine now.
 
Nope not this at all

The little plungers in the switches have worn off or broken off, one is actually missing and was loose inside the lock.

operating the switched with a screwdriver they work fine.
 
my passenger door plays up now and again i find if you unplug the electrics and plug it back in again it works fine i personally think its the kids slamming the door shaking it loose:mad:
 
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