Al2O3 said:

More work on the tub today, replacing the strike plates. This is what both sides looked like at the start.

I used the YRM repair panels. I held them up to the tub and drew a pencil line on as a reference to the part of the bulkhead that's behind the seats.

I then decided how far up to cut the old part back. I went a few cm above the bottom hole for the support bracket to bulkhead holes. The pictures on the YRM site were similar.

I then drew a line and with a metal straight edge scored it several times with a Stanley knife. I then scored and cut the small 90 degree door seam section with the Stanley knife. It cut through the aluminium easily. I then finished it off with a pair of small side cutters.

The scored line across the front just snapped cleanly when I bent it up and down a few times.

I lined the repair panel up in to where it would be fitting and I must have been holding it together pretty tight, When I took it away I noticed the score/snap line of the original panel had put a cut line through the protective plastic on the back of the new panel, creating a perfect cut line.

After cutting the new panel I cleaned the exposed bit of original panel, wire brushed it and etch primed it.

I then marked out the holes for the support bracket, rivets and the seat box hole a drilled them out. Once they were drilled I etch primed the repair panel and then sprayed the tub section and the new panel with Dinitrol.

Then it was just a case of pop riveting it in.

Then did the same on the other side.

Click to expand...

Hi mate been viewing your rebuild thread for awhile now and looks great amazing all the work you've been doing you'll be glad to see some light at end of the tunnel.
At the weekend I was replacing my Battery box with a YRM one like you have fitted and found my Strike plate to be in similar condition to how yours were I ordered a repair panel last night from YRM. I remembered today you had a similar issue and was looking through pics on thread to see how you fitted it. I've just 1 question do the rivets on small edge not stop the door rubber from being fitted or is there enough give in door rubber to go over rivets?

Keep Up the great work

TorsionBhudda said:

I've just 1 question do the rivets on small edge not stop the door rubber from being fitted or is there enough give in door rubber to go over rivets?

Click to expand...

That's a great question. The rubber seal pushed over it very easily. However, the landy still goes to bed under a large plastic sheet on the drive. Whether the seal keeps water out is probably a more testing question. It's yet to be let out in the rain.

Al2O3 said:

That's a great question. The rubber seal pushed over it very easily. However, the landy still goes to bed under a large plastic sheet on the drive. Whether the seal keeps water out is probably a more testing question. It's yet to be let out in the rain.

Click to expand...

Thanks for replying it's good to know that the seal fits over the rivets. was worried in case had to start cutting slots in seal to clear rivets or seal was flapping about.

TorsionBhudda said:

Thanks for replying it's good to know that the seal fits over the rivets. was worried in case had to start cutting slots in seal to clear rivets or seal was flapping about.

Click to expand...

Absolutely no need to cut slots in the seal, marra.
I've got an update on the repair panels from YRM. They are very good and strong and I would use them again without hesitation. However, if you have a landy with the fuel tank under the drivers seat you will need to cut a shoulder out of the repair panel to go around the tank. I didn't realise this cos the front of my tub was literally rotted away. However, when I couldn't get the fuel tank in at the weekend I've since discovered the drivers side section is not the right shape.

Can you get a picture of the section you have cut away ?

Al2O3 said:

Absolutely no need to cut slots in the seal, marra.
I've got an update on the repair panels from YRM. They are very good and strong and I would use them again without hesitation. However, if you have a landy with the fuel tank under the drivers seat you will need to cut a shoulder out of the repair panel to go around the tank. I didn't realise this cos the front of my tub was literally rotted away. However, when I couldn't get the fuel tank in at the weekend I've since discovered the drivers side section is not the right shape.

Click to expand...

I recieved my seatbox end and repair panel yesterday unfortunately they have sent the Drivers side repair panel one when i had ordered passenger side emailed them last night so hopefully they will be able to send right panel out. The drivers side is actually ok on my Defender. I was very impressed with the battery box that I bought from them easy enough to fit as well.

I'm sure you'll get a positive response from your email and they'll get one out to you as soon as they can. They're lovely folk, proper family firm. I was very pleased with my battery box, very strong but very light.

Al2O3 said:

I'm sure you'll get a positive response from your email and they'll get one out to you as soon as they can. They're lovely folk, proper family firm. I was very pleased with my battery box, very strong but very light.

Click to expand...

Have to say they were really positive they emailed this morning apologising and to say they had sent the correct part and I should receive it tomorrow Also I offered to post the one they sent by mistake but their reply was to just keep it. One of best companies I've had to deal with in a long time.

Yeah, I thought they would tell you to keep it, but didn't want to tempt fate. A bit of a time delay on the job, but at least you've got two new seat box ends. Might as well swap both now.

greyhair said:

Can you get a picture of the section you have cut away ?

Click to expand...

Sorry greyhair, missed this post. Do you mean the bit I need to cut away from the strike plate? I haven't done it yet.

Feels like I've made very little progress today, but managed some steps forward.
Had a nightmare trying to get the new rubber grommets in the rad and inter-cooler surround. They were really hard. Resorted to heating the frame up on the woodburning stove and putting the rubbers in a bowl of boiling water.

Still kept splitting as I forced them in. Fortunately, I'd bought 2 packets. Opened the second packet and these rubbers were soft and pushed in easily. That's the consistent quality of Britpart I suppose Spent ages doing that!
Put the passenger front wing on with a lot of pushing and shoving. Couldn't get the top bolt in. Then realised I should have put the plastic liner in first!
I've not been able to find replacement sound proofing sections, so I bought some PE foam.


Used the old wrecked foam piece to make a template and cut out some sections.
Stuck them to the inner wing with some butyl tape. Should get the wings on tomorrow, but today I found it's not as straightforward as I was expecting.
Guinness and rugby time now!

Made a bit of progress today, but discovered some stuff I don't know the answer to! So if you are reading this you may be able to help me out.
This is an inner wing with the insulation on.

Spent another hour or so trying to wrestle the passenger wing in place, but just couldn't get all the fixing points to line up. I'd had the inner wing prefixed to the outer wing and decided to try a different strategy and fix the inner wings in first.
This strategy worked better.

First question. Should something go between the wing and this bracket? Or will it clamp down with a bolt? It doesn't look like it will without bending the wing.

Put the radiator surround in and bolted the slam panel between the wings.


Second problem. I've got some masking tape on the other side of this bit of electronics which says 'bolted to drivers side inner wing'. Can't find a hole for it to bolt to though! It must be some sort of resistor with a heat sink on it I think.


I've still got problems with the passenger wing. I'm not sure if the bracket on the bulkhead footwell, which screw to the inner wing, stick out too far and are pushing the inner wing forward.

You can see here the turret is not in the centre of the hole, in fact you can see where I've had to cut the plastic liner on the right hand side to relieve some of the pressure.
The inner wing is so far forward, relative to the outer wing, that the holes to screw them together don't line up


Another question. Does anyone know what this bracket is for on the drivers side inner wing just above the turret hole?

These are second hand replacement inner wings and I can't remember if mine had this bracket. Can't find any pictures from the dismantle either.
Last question , for now
My brake system has a valve bolted to the bulkhead on drivers side. I did this drawing months ago, but don't know what I used as a reference. is it right?

I've got pictures from the dismantle, but they are too close up to see where the pipes go off to. Idiot!
I also cleaned the intercooler out with petrol. It's now in the garden shed window, which faces South, so should get warm enough to evaporate everything off. I've read people saying they wash it out with soapy water afterwards, but is that really necessary?

why does the passenger side front not go through the valve? My front m/c outlet does front brakes and rear does rear, as does yours, through the valve as yours but my single front line goes from m/c to valve to o/s spring seat where it tees down into o/s caliper and continues around chassis to n/s caliper.

And that bracket is for the expansion tank

Discokids said:

why does the passenger side front not go through the valve? My front m/c outlet does front brakes and rear does rear, as does yours, through the valve as yours but my single front line goes from m/c to valve to o/s spring seat where it tees down into o/s caliper and continues around chassis to n/s caliper.

Click to expand...

No idea why passenger side front doesn't go through the valve.

I left all the other pipes connected apart from the top two. You can see from the picture I have put the pipe from the rear brakes in to the right hand connector on the top. Typically, I began to doubt myself, hence the question in the post.

There are some diagrams in the parts book, don't know if they are any help?

Discokids said:

And that bracket is for the expansion tank

Click to expand...

Is your a 200Tdi? Mine has a flat bar with a twist in it to support the expansion tank. You can just make it out in the original picture above, the flat bar is coming up from just under the turret hole.

My engine is a 200 yes, but my vehicle started life as a v8 hi cap pickup, in white. The entire body is green inside and out with no trace of white anywhere so that wing could be off absolutely anything

Discokids said:

why does the passenger side front not go through the valve? My front m/c outlet does front brakes and rear does rear, as does yours, through the valve as yours but my single front line goes from m/c to valve to o/s spring seat where it tees down into o/s caliper and continues around chassis to n/s caliper.

Click to expand...

is yours a 2 hole m/c, the valve only needs to sense the line pressure,

It is James, just 2 holes.

jamesmartin said:

is yours a 2 hole m/c, the valve only needs to sense the line pressure,

Click to expand...

No, James it's a 3 hole.