jt_armstrong said:

Other than a failed starter motor and a duff CPS the wife's P38 has never had an issue. Mine has worked like a dream for 2 years and only suffered from faults I caused
To be honest though I have never driven a diesel one so hard to comment other than in jest....

Click to expand...

Can sound a bit noisy when cold from the outside, but virtually inaudible on the move, the tyres make much more noise

Sorry to drag this one up again. Ive been away in Germany for the last 4 days and couldn't wait to get home this evening to try and get the alternator belt off so I can take the alternator off and get it repaired.
Made it home with about 10 minutes of day light left, dumped a bag full of washing just inside the back door for the wife to sort out, chucked on my overalls to try and save some time in getting changed and went straight out to crack on.
Memorised what Rodntod said about how easy it would be but for the life of me can I work out where the hell to put the pry bar in?
I can see the part that looks like a small shock absorber that connects onto what looks like an arm that inturn connects onto what looks like a pulley that inturn connects onto a pulley below it but I just cant see which bit is supposed to move. Then it got real dark and the wife reiterated how I had been away for 4 days and the first thing I wanted to do was muck about with the bloody Range Rover. On the one hand owning a P38 is bloody addictive and frustrating when your as useless as I am when it come to using the spanners.
Has anybody got a picture of where I should be pushing the pry bar they can share with me PLEASE

thanks,

Dave
Dave.

Here you go mate.Sorry about the rough drawing

thank you very much indeed.

Dave

Speedex750 said:

I went through a similar phase before Christmas with my DHSE and Valeo alternator. A good diagnostic tool for £3 is a voltmeter plugging in to the ciggy lighter, like 130605564165 on Ebay. I had a new super sized battery but the alternator was only putting out 13.5 to 13.6 volts. Battery technology has changed since P38's were built and as Datatek says you need more than 14 volts to keep the battery charged and prevent sulphating. Have a read of this link CAR BATTERIES ARE NOT 12 VOLTS

I changed the alternator regulator to a 14.7v one, everything else with it was OK, and it now runs consistantly at 14.4+

It seemed a better move at £15 than a £80 to £300 replacement alternator that may still have a low set regulator.

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Interesting reading!

Could you let us know a little more about what is involved in changing the regulator, and where you can get new ones from...?

I am only getting around 13.3V and it clearly isn't enough - car refused to start today after being used only for short journeys for several days..... battery is new.....

Many thanks!

Cheers,

Jerry

I'm also interested in where you got that 14.7V voltage regulator from..

I had a problem recently with just 13.3-13.5v going back to the battery.After buying another alternator from emmets , no difference. However after fitting a new earth lead from engine to body/chassis i now have 14+v at the battery even on tickover.It would be worth testing the return voltage directly at the rear of the alternator and if it is 14v or more try connecting a jump lead from a good earth point on the engine to a similar good earth point on the body/chassis and re-check voltage across the battery.This could be the problem and if so,a £3 earth lead could be a very cheap fix.

Ed

jerrytlr said:

Interesting reading!

Could you let us know a little more about what is involved in changing the regulator, and where you can get new ones from...?

I am only getting around 13.3V and it clearly isn't enough - car refused to start today after being used only for short journeys for several days..... battery is new.....

Many thanks!

Cheers,

Jerry

Click to expand...

Jerry, even with the earlier 13.8 volt regulator you should be seeing more than 13.3 volts. Before you look at spending on a new regulator you need to check all the cables and associated earths.
There are several concerns in France that do alternator parts and overhauls. My local one has just changed hands so I can't remember the name, sorry.
I don't believe that any P38 was fitted with a 13.8 volt regulator so unless the alternator has been swapped at some time and unless you have a cable/connection problem, you may be looking at a faulty diode pack.

Sorry guys I seem to have hijacked this thread a bit with my own alternator issues! Will measure the relevant voltages and post back my findings....

Cheers,

Jerry

OK did a quick check, 13.8 V across the battery at idle, 13.9V at 2000 rpm, so not quite as bad as I thought. I think the 13.3V I remember was what Nanocom reported from the BECM some time ago, not a proper DVM measurement.

Also measured voltage between battery positive and the alternator body (to eliminate earth straps from the circuit) and it was 13.85 i.e. only 0.05V drop across the earth straps which I guess is OK (and probably within measurement tolerances anyway) Couldn't measure across alternator directly as couldn't figure out how to get the plastic cover off to get to the terminals!

Given the above, suspect my starting issue is more likely to be a battery drain problem than alternator/regulator...

Cheers,

Jerry

How i got my 14.2 volt - cable from alternator to battery & extra earth strap seen right side fuse box on bracket
Gained near 1 Volt

Valeo alternators for 2.5 diesel – I found out quite a bit when considering what to do with mine that was only producing 13.6v.

Here goes;

There’s various references to 105 and 110 amp alternators but don’t know which was fitted to what model, mines a 105 amp, – but they all look the same.

Once removed this is what was on my alternator (2001 DHSE model)

Actual fitment - Main nameplate
ALT64021
Ref - 2541694 0
A13VI 76
14v 105A
648 AN 80
BMW – 2 244 818

Rectifier markings – 2546053 11

Original regulator markings – (runs at 13.6v)
9RC
6066
2541702
90627 (9 could be 0 and 6 could be G)

The regulator I got was a VR-VW010. I got it off Ebay from Latvia – they’re not advertising them now. I went for this one as it specified 14.7 volts, none of the others went into this detail and I didn’t want the original 13.6V ones.

Wood Auto seem to have a good range and supply the above regulator – albeit without a detail specify of the voltage. Also on Ebay like – 290534777290 – but again the actual running voltage isn’t specified but there is a picture of what they look like. The regulator also comes with new brushes.

I found the following on the internet (can’t remember where) when working out which regulator to buy - £15 is a big investment!!!

Voltage Set Point:14.7V
ZVVW801
VR-VW010
134475
M511
9RC2054
5761.9
2541666
35-9426
　

Voltage Set Point:14.5V
ZVVW804
VR-VW005N
135393
M507
35-9422
940038151
21229199
5DR004241-451

I would suggest you go for an equivalent to the ones specified at 14.7 volts as I did though the 14.5v ones in the bottom half would also probably be OK. My experience is that they run 0.2 to 0.3v under the specified voltage even after all the voltage drops down the earth cables etc are fixed. Search on the part numbers on Ebay or with other suppliers

It fits quite easily once the alternator is out – but don’t shear the small terminal post off as I did, it had been over tightened and broken out of the plastic. I had to solder in a connection to the rectifier and it was a bit tricky!! You can avoid disconnecting the battery to remove the alternator by disconnecting the smaller cable on the starter solenoid – that’s the connection to the big terminal on the alternator.

Mine generates very steadily at 14.4 to 14.5v and I’m very chipper that I didn’t lash out £300 for a ‘proper’ new one.

Excellent info, many thanks for taking the trouble to post it up

The Wood Auto site does appear to give the voltage set point, e.g.:

Wood Auto Supplies Ltd :: VRG46517

...at 14.5V, so I think fitting one of these could be a big help to those of use with earlier 13.6V alternators. May just order one anyway.....

Cheers

Jerry

Evening all,

I happened to notice last night when I disconnected the earth terminal from the battery that although it was reemed up as tight as it would go it was still able to spin round on the terminal.
Can anybody suggest something that could go round the terminal to bulk it out a little so I can tighten the clamp up nice and tight.
The battery (which is a bloody great commercial thing) is only just over a month old so it's not worn out.

Any sugestions,

Dave

Aluminium foil should do the trick...

Check that the connector isn't on upside down, they taper ever so slightly.

Check that the connector isn't on upside down, some taper ever so slightly.

OOPs, sorry. Just blame the computer.

Davlyn said:

Evening all,

I happened to notice last night when I disconnected the earth terminal from the battery that although it was reemed up as tight as it would go it was still able to spin round on the terminal.
Can anybody suggest something that could go round the terminal to bulk it out a little so I can tighten the clamp up nice and tight.
The battery (which is a bloody great commercial thing) is only just over a month old so it's not worn out.

Any sugestions,

Dave

Click to expand...

Best idea is to fit a new terminal that will clamp up properly

Delighted with life. Took the alternator out of the P38 and down to my local auto electrician who gave it a good going over. New brushes, regulator and slip ring I think he said. Best £50.00 I've ever spent, put it back in, replaced the negative lead from the battery to the chassis and now get a constant 14.3v at 2000rpm. Why would anybody want to shell out £250.00 for a new alternator when you can have them returned to as good as new for that sort of money.

Thanks for all the helpful comments guys,

Dave