owl
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the support
Thanks for the support
discomark10
Well-Known Member
owl
Well-Known Member
Thats right, Drew Bowler had scoops on top of the roof doing the Dakar and had overheating issues and I am sure that is when he changed to the over screen type, I seem to remember that they knocked them up during the event.
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
Ill have to get a pook at some other challenge trucks and see what they've done as thats what im hoping to do.
Thats the back of the gigglepin truck and the only differences I can see is they havent got corner windows and door windows and its an alisport rad but the positioning is the same as mine and they're running a 6.2 LS3
So ill probably give mine some hammer and see what happens
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
The rad isn't a std rad tho it's huge
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
Looks the same physical size as mine, remember im running RR V8 rad which is the biggest on any LR vehicle my age, just alisport version and may be a triple core but like I said it has to cool a 6.3 producing alot more power than my RV8, plus ive got all the metal piping underneith to help dissipate heat too and larger bore slightly than standard meaning theres more water to absorb/ dissipate heat.
Just watched a vid form KOM and the cars there are about half half scoop no scoop. Some side mounted some top, so that gives me ideas for if I do need to do one.
owl
Well-Known Member
A scoop won't do much at challenge truck speeds, like trials you spend most time on light or no throttle so a good rad and fans will keep things cool. But when you are in deep mud under full load you are totally reliant on you fans they are the weak link in the chain.
Obviously on speed events we can use scoops and pressure differences around the car to up the through put of air through the rad.
Obviously on speed events we can use scoops and pressure differences around the car to up the through put of air through the rad.
discomark10
Well-Known Member
It could just be a trial and error thing. You might find your type of usage wont require any scoop.
I've never had mine heat up offroad, but I don't do speed related events.
I've never had mine heat up offroad, but I don't do speed related events.
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
Yep ive got an oil cooler at the front, 300tdo auto box cooler infact as it fits well but doesnt take up too much space. Hopefully it will work
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
owl
Well-Known Member
You'll know what to do, tractors have the same issues as in slow speed and heavy loads.
When are you back in the UK. I will need some hoses making in a month or two.
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
Yeah I plan on a couple of temp guages, one at the engine one at the rad so I know how well its cooling.
Trialing im not worried about overheating, its more challenges and road driving where theres high revs, higher loads etc
Tractors all use engine driven fans, you really notice when they fully kick in, dramatically drops power ill find a way to keep it cool
Im back first week of august, plan on going to KOV a few days after I get back (not competing of course)
Trialing im not worried about overheating, its more challenges and road driving where theres high revs, higher loads etc
Tractors all use engine driven fans, you really notice when they fully kick in, dramatically drops power
ill find a way to keep it coolIm back first week of august, plan on going to KOV a few days after I get back (not competing of course)
I haven't read the whole thread, so I don't know how you are finishing the mould. I'd use a PVA (not the glue) release agent after the final wax, and then use good old water to separate the moulding from the mould. In yachtbuilding we'd get a hose into a gap (made with a thin wooden wedge) and leave it running. Capillary action sets up surprisingly high presssures that force the gap open, and the water also dissolves the PVA which helps too.
owl
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that, I am spraying PVA on top of 10 coats of wax. It was only the patterns that I had trouble with, the parts I have taken from the molds have released ok.
owl
Well-Known Member
Hi Guys, I have had a break from building the motor or perhaps I should say diversion of labour on to the house
However I have managed a few hours this weekend and have made a dash, once finished it will have a key start, warning lights and a few switches for lights. Nice and simple. The sharp eyed amongst you will notice that it is offset this is to make room for the key start on the right side of the column.
Also I have fitted body cappings and made the panels for the sides and rear of the cab. next it will have a polycarb panel to fill the top half which will then make a larg air scoop for the rad.
However I have managed a few hours this weekend and have made a dash, once finished it will have a key start, warning lights and a few switches for lights. Nice and simple. The sharp eyed amongst you will notice that it is offset this is to make room for the key start on the right side of the column.
Also I have fitted body cappings and made the panels for the sides and rear of the cab. next it will have a polycarb panel to fill the top half which will then make a larg air scoop for the rad.
