Make them.
2 usually surfice for most people
unless your from Norfolk or Wales oh n Cornwall
most don't even turn up 
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Standard 3/16" is needed to replace the 4 pipes to the wheels.
You'll need just over a standard 20' roll and all fittings are standard 10mm in a collection of male or female.
teddywood1
Well-Known Member
I am sure they are double flaired
and there are films on how to do it on you tube
Hope this helps
and there are films on how to do it on you tube
Hope this helps
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The flairs are just standard, nothing special. There are single flairs for male fittings and reverse flairs for female fittings.
teddywood1
Well-Known Member
It was just what I was told
Lowbank
Active Member
Dandd, where are you based???
I did one side of my mates car a couple of months ago.
Based on that you will need two rolls of brake pipe. I reccomend you plan to put joints in the rear brake pipes as the originals are one piece and impossible to get off in one piece let alone get back on.
Also my top tip is make slave piece. thats a fitting with a small length of pipe beaten over at the end to stop fluid coming out. undo the brake pipe under the bonnet and put in the slave piece stopping the master cylinder from draining. You can then take your time removing that line and making a pipe. once back together I bleed that one line and move to the next. that way you know which line still has air in if you have a soft pedal, as it can only be the line you are working on.
Do not buy a cheap flanging tool off ebay, they dont work.
Mine was about £50. pipe work and fittings will cost about £40. fluid £10. saving you about £140 on what a garage will charge.
Found this one on ebay, this is the type I used for years and it was really good.
I did one side of my mates car a couple of months ago.
Based on that you will need two rolls of brake pipe. I reccomend you plan to put joints in the rear brake pipes as the originals are one piece and impossible to get off in one piece let alone get back on.
Also my top tip is make slave piece. thats a fitting with a small length of pipe beaten over at the end to stop fluid coming out. undo the brake pipe under the bonnet and put in the slave piece stopping the master cylinder from draining. You can then take your time removing that line and making a pipe. once back together I bleed that one line and move to the next. that way you know which line still has air in if you have a soft pedal, as it can only be the line you are working on.
Do not buy a cheap flanging tool off ebay, they dont work.
Mine was about £50. pipe work and fittings will cost about £40. fluid £10. saving you about £140 on what a garage will charge.
Found this one on ebay, this is the type I used for years and it was really good.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
good advice imo
guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
Run the new pipe from the modulator end and follow the old pipes. Once you've fitted the far end, move towards the front of the car again, snipping off the old pipe in sections and clipping the new in its place.
If you wedge the brake pedal down with a piece of wood (undo a fitting or bleeder to release the pressure) you'll hardly get a drip from the pipes.
Google OP1 and OP2 tube flares if you want to learn how to flare pipes correctly.
If you wedge the brake pedal down with a piece of wood (undo a fitting or bleeder to release the pressure) you'll hardly get a drip from the pipes.
Google OP1 and OP2 tube flares if you want to learn how to flare pipes correctly.
guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
Get a decent brake pipe flare tool. Use it to press a die into the end (OP1 or 'male' flare), then if necessary press in the anvil without the die (OP2 or 'female' flare). The Freelander has both types, so just replace like with like.
