Mark,I Googled the the 3 Amigos and most said change the ABS unit.The other problem I was having(some near death experiences) when braking the brakes would lock on and jam until I turned the ignition off and then they freed off,so I changed the ABS unit-still the same after changing it and all the 3 Lights still on.I'm actually scared to drive it now as the brakes jamming on when you touch them at speed has caused nearly three drivers to run up the back of me.
Dunno about Freelanders specifically, but brakes locking suggests the problem might be with pads that are worn, ot corroded brake caliper pistons .. either condition, if bad enough, could cause brakes to seize on. Might be worth a quick check to see how worn the pads are and how far the pistons are moving and how corroded they are.
we checked all the brakes and the pads were in terrible shape(falling to pieces) but everything else was working fine,I've just read more about this HDC (hill decent control) and it seems to put the ABS brakes on itself,so it must think I'm going down a steep hill and braking for me-even though I'm going along a straight road-very dangerous.I need to know if I can disconnect this HDC thing,I took out Fuse F7 (10A) and the TC and HDC light go out,does this mean they are disconnected?,any ideas greatly appreciated.
HI,
Firsty the ABS HDC and TC are warning lights which indicate a problem in the system. The electronics are designed so that when the ABS ECU detects a fault it displays the warning light and shuts down part or all of the ABS system.
You may have solved the problem partly by changing the ABS unit but i'm not sure if this needs recoding to the engine management ECU by a dealer or good independent - i'm sure someone will advise on this!
Normally when the ABS ECU detects faults cleared it will switch off the warning lights and resume normal function. This nmormally happens when after you have corrected the fault and go for a short drive and the car reaches 12mph.
The fact that you are suffering a severe brake problem sounds unrelated to the ABS - daft as it sounds did you check the front caliper pistons are not sticking? They are known to rust under the rubber covering. Also have you fitted the rear shoes (if you changed them) correctly with respect to the leading and trailing edges and adjusted the handbrake in accordance with RAVE? Its important the set proceedure for this is followed.
Back to ABS - normal causes of the 3 lights are - faulty ABS wheel sensor, faulty HDC switch, faulty brake light switch. You can check each wheel sensor by jacking up the vehicle (for the rears) and disconnecting the wiring plug from the sensor. Check resisance across the sensor with a multimeter - it should give you a reading of approx 1.5M Ohms.No reading = duff sensor. Repeat for other side rear then fronts - wiring connector for these is located inner front wings behind battery and near ABS unit.
HDC switch - check switch functioning with continuity test on multimeter. Check wiring connector to switch is solid and making good contact.
Brake light switch - no simple test here - the brake lights will still work. LR issued a modified switch as a replacement some time ago and its only(!) around £20 so worth chani=ging anyway if all else fails.
If all the simple checking does proove to be worthless in turning up a fault then i really am afraid you do need a diagnostic check on the computer performing.
Firsty the ABS HDC and TC are warning lights which indicate a problem in the system. The electronics are designed so that when the ABS ECU detects a fault it displays the warning light and shuts down part or all of the ABS system.
You may have solved the problem partly by changing the ABS unit but i'm not sure if this needs recoding to the engine management ECU by a dealer or good independent - i'm sure someone will advise on this!
Normally when the ABS ECU detects faults cleared it will switch off the warning lights and resume normal function. This nmormally happens when after you have corrected the fault and go for a short drive and the car reaches 12mph.
The fact that you are suffering a severe brake problem sounds unrelated to the ABS - daft as it sounds did you check the front caliper pistons are not sticking? They are known to rust under the rubber covering. Also have you fitted the rear shoes (if you changed them) correctly with respect to the leading and trailing edges and adjusted the handbrake in accordance with RAVE? Its important the set proceedure for this is followed.
Back to ABS - normal causes of the 3 lights are - faulty ABS wheel sensor, faulty HDC switch, faulty brake light switch. You can check each wheel sensor by jacking up the vehicle (for the rears) and disconnecting the wiring plug from the sensor. Check resisance across the sensor with a multimeter - it should give you a reading of approx 1.5M Ohms.No reading = duff sensor. Repeat for other side rear then fronts - wiring connector for these is located inner front wings behind battery and near ABS unit.
HDC switch - check switch functioning with continuity test on multimeter. Check wiring connector to switch is solid and making good contact.
Brake light switch - no simple test here - the brake lights will still work. LR issued a modified switch as a replacement some time ago and its only(!) around £20 so worth chani=ging anyway if all else fails.
If all the simple checking does proove to be worthless in turning up a fault then i really am afraid you do need a diagnostic check on the computer performing.
