Y

ySo

New Member
My car has been off the road for a month and the battery died (couldn't keep it running as I stripped the cooling system). Recharged the battery and now the engine won't start, just comes up with engine immobilised, press key or enter code.

I've had this before and locking/unlocking the car with the fob cleared it but it's not doing anything now. Fob won't work at all

Tried resyncing it but that does nothing - not even sure I'm doing it right as there seems to be a lot of different methods.

Don't have the logbook etc so no EKA code.

Any ideas on what to do?

Thanks
 
Have you tried pressing the fob while it's in the ignition? Mines been off the road since the end of april and the battery was goosed after 10days, recharged it for 24hrs and it's been fine, also disconnected the rf receiver. If it hasn't been used for a while then chances are the central locking is stuck, mine does this everytime the battery is taken off or not used for a while. Lock/unlock on the key and eventually it will spring into life.

How's the overheating situation?

mick
 
ySo said:
My car has been off the road for a month and the battery died (couldn't keep it running as I stripped the cooling system). Recharged the battery and now the engine won't start, just comes up with engine immobilised, press key or enter code.

I've had this before and locking/unlocking the car with the fob cleared it but it's not doing anything now. Fob won't work at all

Tried resyncing it but that does nothing - not even sure I'm doing it right as there seems to be a lot of different methods.

Don't have the logbook etc so no EKA code.

Any ideas on what to do?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Two choices, get the FOB working or get the EKA code.
 
how do I disconnect the RF receiver?

New batteries in the FOB, not sure exactly how to get it working. Had this same issue before and the fob unlocked it, but it does nothing this time.

As for the overheating, I've put everything back with new parts but can't start the engine to see if the problem still persists.
 
If you take the parcel shelf off in the boot (on the drivers side) you'll see two black boxes. The one closest to the rear seat is the rf receiver. The connector nearer to the side window is the antena and the other connector is the power. Does the central locking work?
 
Central locking does not work right now, it did work but only for the back two doors and the boot. Then the boot went, can't get into that either. So need to replace the locking mechanisms on all 3 of them I guess.

What purpose does disconnecting the antenna do for me? Just so I know why I'm disconnecting it.
.Cheers
 
ySo said:
Central locking does not work right now, it did work but only for the back two doors and the boot. Then the boot went, can't get into that either. So need to replace the locking mechanisms on all 3 of them I guess.

What purpose does disconnecting the antenna do for me? Just so I know why I'm disconnecting it.
.Cheers
Click to expand...
If the locks are burnt you must replace the RF receiver as it will be that that burnt the lock motors.
 
Okay, so got the EKA code, what's the correct procedure for entering it on a 96 2.5TD?

Will it even work if the drivers door lock never worked off the fob? The back doors work but the 2 front only ever open/closed manually.

Thanks
 
Tried: 4 turns to lock to activate EKA input. Then first digit, turns to unlock, 2nd digit turns to lock, 3rd digit turns to unlock, 4th digit turns to lock, then 1 turn to unlock it and try start car but same engine disabled press fob or enter code...

I don't seem to get any confirmation flashes of the indicator, they just seem to flash 3 times on EVERY single turn of the key.. alarm horn doesn't seem to work on this car.

I'm puzzled and have no idea how to start my car :( damn range rovers... lol
 
On my Disco, so might be completely different, the EKA was similar but slightly different in that the start the EKA sequence was turn the key in the drivers door to the lock position and hold there for at least 5 seconds

Then follow the unlock 1st digit, lock 2nd, unlock 3rd, lock 4th then once to unlock, at which point the immobiliser light goes out and the engine can be started.

If you enter an incorrect code the sounder will beep, so start again.

Three botch-ups and you'll have to wait 30 minutes before it will accept any codes.

Might be worth trying!
 
Tried that with no luck either :(

Would a duff drivers door lock mechanism interfere with the code entry?

Another weird one is I cannot manually open the rear doors from the inside anymore. Used to be able to..they are locked completely now.
 
ySo said:
Tried that with no luck either :(

Would a duff drivers door lock mechanism interfere with the code entry?

Another weird one is I cannot manually open the rear doors from the inside anymore. Used to be able to..they are locked completely now.
Click to expand...

Yes. Are child locks on?
 
ySo said:
Tried that with no luck either :(

Would a duff drivers door lock mechanism interfere with the code entry?

Another weird one is I cannot manually open the rear doors from the inside anymore. Used to be able to..they are locked completely now.
Click to expand...
Maybe the rear doors are now super locked:eek:
If you get flashes from the indicators when you enter the EKA code it would suggest the microswitches in the lock are working. Maybe the code is wrong or your BECM has been changed. Otherwise you are doing it wrong. PM mozz smith, he's an expert on this.
 
Child locks aren't on. Will pm mozz.

What does suprelocked mean and what's the purpose of it?
 
ySo said:
Child locks aren't on. Will pm mozz.

What does suprelocked mean and what's the purpose of it?
Click to expand...
Superlocking is extra security, double press the lock button or double lock from the key, when super locked the doors cannot be opened from the inside.
 
ySo said:
Central locking does not work right now, it did work but only for the back two doors and the boot. Then the boot went, can't get into that either. So need to replace the locking mechanisms on all 3 of them I guess.

What purpose does disconnecting the antenna do for me? Just so I know why I'm disconnecting it.
.Cheers
Click to expand...

If it's the early type receiver then it will prevent the becm going into sleep mode which will over a short period of time drain your baterry. Once disconnected, your battery should last a lot longer.

Once my central locking sprang back into life all doors except the front passenger unlocks. As keith said, if the indicators flash when you turn the key then the microswitch still works. I've heard 2-3 methods to inputting the EKA, can be hit and miss as to which one works.

Superlocking in theory is a brilliant idea, but in practice if something breaks (it's a range rover after all so it's going too) then it can lead to a lot of expensive damage to get back in. I personally will never use the feature just for that reason. Have you tried turning the key to the unlock position twice? might unlock the superlocking.

Once you've got the EKA cracked then things should start to fall in place. The boot not unlocking could be corrosion in the button.

mick
 
cheers guys.

tried the turn to lock 4 times and turn to lock and hold for 5 sec before inputting code unlock>lock>unlock>lock > unlock once but doesn't work.

Battery is pretty low, might need a full charge first?

Anyone know of any other methods of inputting eka? thanks
 
Do you get the side light warning light on the dash flashing as you turn the key when you enter the EAK code? If you don't then the lock is not talking to the BECM. Think Ric the Pick is the man to pm on here. If the R/F has fecked the front locks then disconnect the R/F and replace the locks and try again. You can leave the R/F disconnected and just use the key if you want:):)
 
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