mick 1986 said:

Good job on the door. I need to do mine, but looking for a cheap enough second set so I can keep it on the road. They are a bit worse than what you have there.

Keswick green with a black roof, granted it’s a 110, but gives you an idea.
View attachment 246779

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I managed to do both front doors off repaired and refitted in a day and that’s as a first timer so it is possible on a quick turn around.

I do love that colour scheme. Is that gloss or satin?

LaxfieldLandy said:

I managed to do both front doors off repaired and refitted in a day and that’s as a first timer so it is possible on a quick turn around.

I do love that colour scheme. Is that gloss or satin?

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Mine are rusted up around the door locks, and across the window channels too. I’m not certain they are salvageable, but stopping them down is the first thing I need to do. That can wait until I find a second set.

It’s gloss, but that photo was taken in the rain and isn’t in the best light, so doesn’t show it too well. It still isn’t really gloss when you look at it, probably due to my lack of ability to paint to a pro level, and only doing one thick coat.

I’ve got a bit of surface rust up there so I’ll be wire wheeling and rust treating all that when I strip the doors down for painting.

what method did you use to paint it? It looks good to me. I don’t want to do anything showroom standard myself as I do t want to cry when I scratch it up.

Nice job...
I painted mine a couple of years ago, ford stealth grey, with black roof.. satin finish. used cellulose as easy for home job... sprayed it using an apollo 1500 3stage HVLP. I didn't spend enough time prepping but overall came our ok.. also never got round to cutting the paint after spraying, so could still buff it up a bit.

rockjunky said:

Nice job...
I painted mine a couple of years ago, ford stealth grey, with black roof.. satin finish. used cellulose as easy for home job... sprayed it using an apollo 1500 3stage HVLP. I didn't spend enough time prepping but overall came our ok.. also never got round to cutting the paint after spraying, so could still buff it up a bit.View attachment 246806

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That looks smart! Looks pretty buffed to me!

No so good on close inspection...

rockjunky said:

No so good on close inspection...

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Landies aren’t meant to be inspected up close!

Very true... a few dents, scratches and dull paint just adds to their charm

rockjunky said:

Very true... a few dents, scratches and dull paint just adds to their charm

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I’ve managed to sort most of my dents out. I do have a buckled rear corner to sort so I’ll do that when I change the cappings.
I have far too many different coloured panels to count as part of the charm!

Had a rather expensive package of treasures turn up from YRM ready for the partial strip, rebuild and paint. I love new galv!


I also treated myself to a new compressor in preparation for the spraying in a few weeks. (Hopefully )

So over the last week I’ve finally managed to clear out my big shed so that I can get the Landy in for its strip down and paint/new parts.
I gave the Landy a pressure wash before it went in. The result of the wash was Karcher 1, Landy 0.
Half the paint got blasted off the wings and anywhere with galvanic corrosion. I don’t mind at all though as it means less sanding/paint removal when I strip the panels down.

I spent the day buying random tools and bits and receiving many deliveries of new parts.
I then decided to start stripping the Landy down and got down to half height in an hour and a half. I only managed to snap one bolt so I call that a great success!
Tomorrow I’m off to get the paint and then further stripping time!

So not a lot of work happened on the Landy itself today as I was out spending all my pennies on goodies.
I’ve now got all the bits to go for filling, epoxy primer, high build primer and then a 2k direct gloss top coat. I’m going for Keswick green on the panels. Then gloss black roof, hinges, bumper and front headlight trim ( I’m thinking of fitting a black coated stainless mesh grill similar to Twisted defenders etc.)

I still can’t decide whether to leave the arches plastic or paint them up black. Perhaps just some back to black is the best bet so I don’t worry about future scratches etc.

You can always paint the eyebrow arches later... I painted mine and was pleased with the new look... a lot of prep to rub down the dimples on the surface, but once done they give the vehicle a much more updated look...

I hope the weather improves for you, its been cold for painting.. and damp.

rockjunky said:

You can always paint the eyebrow arches later... I painted mine and was pleased with the new look... a lot of prep to rub down the dimples on the surface, but once done they give the vehicle a much more updated look...

I hope the weather improves for you, its been cold for painting.. and damp.

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This is true.
I’m hoping the weather gets a bit better. I am in a shed/barn though and got a space heater too so it may be ok.

I'm sure you know what you are doing, but it might be worth getting some isolator primer, especially if it has been previously painted in synthetic paint. Nothing worse than seeing a reaction in you nice new paint job! Also don't forget to use etch primer on bare aluminium. I see that you have two different guns with (presumably) different nozzle sizes. 2k epoxy primer is great, but it does need a large nozzle to spray well. Good luck with the painting!

Britcyclerider said:

I'm sure you know what you are doing, but it might be worth getting some isolator primer, especially if it has been previously painted in synthetic paint. Nothing worse than seeing a reaction in you nice new paint job! Also don't forget to use etch primer on bare aluminium. I see that you have two different guns with (presumably) different nozzle sizes. 2k epoxy primer is great, but it does need a large nozzle to spray well. Good luck with the painting!

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I’ve been advised that using epoxy primer over the old paint should be fine as it has a minimal reaction chance. I also got advised against etch primer as that can lift old paint if you overspray at all. they said that epoxy primer works on bare Ali too so I’m keeping my fingers crossed.
You are correct! I’ve got a 1.4 for the top coat and a 1.8 for the primers (epoxy and high build)

So today I’ve managed to get the back panels off, the arches and the cappings (a lot of swearing and some heat from a blow torch seemed to do the trick)


it turned out that the cappings were worse underneath than what was able to be seen when fitted. This is the reason I’m going for galv now.


I’ve also managed to get the rock sliders off, I ended up needing to use a jack against the chassis to get the tubular bit to free itself. I nearly gave up removing them but I got there in the end.
The new bonnet and chequer plate wings were also test fitted for marking and drilling.

I’ve been away from the Landy for a little bit as seeing the in-laws but while I was there I did come across a NAS rear step for £30! It’s the best condition second hand one I’ve seen! Bargain!
The seller had swapped this one for one with a tow hitch, which I’m more than happy with as I don’t use mine for towing anyway.


I did also tent out the shed with plastic sheeting to help keep some of the dust and bugs away if I ever get round to painting, followed by a beer!

So it’s been a while and I’ve done a few more bits to the Landy. Generally on a bit of a go slow though.
She had a really crumpled rear quarter from a previous owner having a disagreement with something hard so that needed sorting. I used a blowtorch to get it fairly straight and then gave it a light sand to see what I’m playing with. It’s not pretty…


Time for a skim of filler. The problem being that the panel is fairly wobbly without the cappings and rear corners on.
So I T-washed the new galv light clusters and single piece cappings before a coat of epoxy and fitting along with new rear panels as the others had creases in them and random holes in the wrong places.
Such a shame to see the shininess disappear


I then primed and gave a lick of satin black I had to the panels and under the cappings to make them weathertight.


Any exposed area of black once the cappings are on will be sanded and primered etc when the whole tub is sprayed.
I decided to use a sticky backed closed cell foam tape and a layer of Tigerseal between the cappings and the tub side panels so that I won’t get any water leaks through there like I did before. Using tape and not just tigerseal means that I can get the cappings off again fairly easily if I ever need to.


It’s worth also noting that a lot of the holes in the body and cappings didn’t line up so needed re-drilling. It’s important to go through the new capping holes for the top side rivets but to go through the tub panel holes and drill new ones in the cappings for the sides so that you don’t end up with extra holes in the panels.
The use of clamps came in handy during fitting so make sure the cappings were fully down and also tight against the back and sides before riveting in place.
Once riveted on, everything was given a good clean and coat of primer.

The coat of Keswick green on the bottom of the back panels is so that they’ve got full coverage behind the Crossmember brackets. I’ll be masking around the brackets for spraying the tub later on. I did get some cracking of the epoxy primer in places even though I keyed up and used panel wipe etc so I’ll need to sand it back and I’ve got some Isolator primer to spray on to prevent any further reactions.