fett
Well-Known Member
took some digging to get to the truth I can tell you.
apparently it got so bad in the states that well known speedshop chain jegs ended up with so many people buying the johnsons, putting the cheap crap in the box and returning it that all the stock they had swapped from johnson to mexican crap over a year and they started getting ****loads of returns- took them a while to figure out how and why lol
apparently it got so bad in the states that well known speedshop chain jegs ended up with so many people buying the johnsons, putting the cheap crap in the box and returning it that all the stock they had swapped from johnson to mexican crap over a year and they started getting ****loads of returns- took them a while to figure out how and why lol
discomark10
Well-Known Member
You mentioned about high capacity oil pump, are you going to drill your oil ways?
fett
Well-Known Member
I just heard the bearings are in the uk 
just ordered all the gaskets apart from composite head ones,suggest me the best place to get PAYNE ones please?
just ordered the billet timing set from RPI too.
I am going to do the ARP stud thing for both the mains and the heads. can you guys tell me your thoughts on the witches potion for torquing them up- ARP Moly lube [BY100-9903] apparently they only need to go to 65ftlbs for the heads and 90ftlbs for the mains using this stuff.
also there is the comp cam break in lube" Competition Cams Cam Lube
When your engine is built it can sit around for a long time. Oil would
gradually run off the cam etc. These products are designed to stick on, to
avoid metal to metal contact & excessive wear."which I know is a must, but there is also:
"Clevite 77 Bearing Guard (assembly lube)
Specially formulated with an extreme pressure rating to provide proper
lubrication for internal engine components during assembly and the first
crucial moments of operation after engine start up. which I was think of for the mains and big ends. whats your thoughts gents?
Do I need any other snake oils? I just used engine oil and loctite on my last engine job lol
just ordered all the gaskets apart from composite head ones,suggest me the best place to get PAYNE ones please?
just ordered the billet timing set from RPI too.
I am going to do the ARP stud thing for both the mains and the heads. can you guys tell me your thoughts on the witches potion for torquing them up- ARP Moly lube [BY100-9903] apparently they only need to go to 65ftlbs for the heads and 90ftlbs for the mains using this stuff.
also there is the comp cam break in lube" Competition Cams Cam Lube
When your engine is built it can sit around for a long time. Oil would
gradually run off the cam etc. These products are designed to stick on, to
avoid metal to metal contact & excessive wear."which I know is a must, but there is also:
"Clevite 77 Bearing Guard (assembly lube)
Specially formulated with an extreme pressure rating to provide proper
lubrication for internal engine components during assembly and the first
crucial moments of operation after engine start up. which I was think of for the mains and big ends. whats your thoughts gents?
Do I need any other snake oils? I just used engine oil and loctite on my last engine job lol
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Our local motor factor supplies Payen so just ring around. Although I believe Elring make the best gaskets? I would be happy with Payen though.
No idea about ARP studs I'm afraid.
Regards lube, often you see that red colour cam lube being squirted all over the cam and followers but my engine build didn't have that, instead the guy had used some graphite colour stuff that was near as damnit swivel husing grease just a but more sticky, designed to be applied to all moving parts for that initial crank over.
He also supplied a bottle of comp cams break in which was just oil coloured stuff, the label claims high levels of zinc. I wondered if comma sonic would have done the job but for a tenner it's a no brainer.
I drained the oil out the guy had used which had to break in live in it, stripped the engine and rebuilt and then used that oil for my first 2 hours, then swapped to fresh sonic which would have flushed out all the previous lubes etc and indeed a decent amount of particles came through also.
Cheers
No idea about ARP studs I'm afraid.
Regards lube, often you see that red colour cam lube being squirted all over the cam and followers but my engine build didn't have that, instead the guy had used some graphite colour stuff that was near as damnit swivel husing grease just a but more sticky, designed to be applied to all moving parts for that initial crank over.
He also supplied a bottle of comp cams break in which was just oil coloured stuff, the label claims high levels of zinc. I wondered if comma sonic would have done the job but for a tenner it's a no brainer.
I drained the oil out the guy had used which had to break in live in it, stripped the engine and rebuilt and then used that oil for my first 2 hours, then swapped to fresh sonic which would have flushed out all the previous lubes etc and indeed a decent amount of particles came through also.
Cheers
discomark10
Well-Known Member
I didnt use any special assembly lube just engine oil. I plan to turn the oil pump just before starting. Those torque setting's seem similar to standard (I could be wrong as I have a memory of a siv)
fett
Well-Known Member
Some more pics:
P76 Second Lot Of Pics Photos by fett8 | Photobucket
So been sorting front covers, three to choose from. The benefit of using the old style original one is that I have about 6 dizzys that will fit and it keeps it consistent with the rest of my rv8 fleet of engines so I crack tested where the normally go along the oil pump shaft line and it passed! the other benefit is that its oil pump base plate was in the best shape of the three.
I remember noisy saying along with some other guy about facing them up being a waste of time if you didn't get it hard anodized again? so as this one has a fair bit of anodizing left and you cant even feel a ridge with your nail I expect its ok but tell me what you lot think?
the front cover seal was held in on the inside with two self tappers and rtv silicone, not sure what thats about as I had to use the heat of the dishwasher to get it out anyway? also I put a pic up of one of the spares with the metal retainer on the outside, not seen one before- have you?
The blocks back and I filled the core plugs over with ultra grade epoxy (ask zen how good it is) they wont ever leak lol.
James the pics of the oil gallery plugs are there for you.
Everyone, how do you make sure the oil galleries are clear of swarf after machining before re-assembly? thinking particularly of the lifter ones and air just blowing swarf in further not out??
The circa 1981 dizzy drive gear turned up, needs some de-burring though- lazy brummy bastids!
the mains turned up from aus, dated 1991. some very light corrosion ont he white metal- you can see the finger prints lol. advice please!
brand new manufactured mains coming in june, choices!!! ????
heads arrived friday, will unwrap tomoz, I hope no damage!!!!
post office says another package waiting with £21 customs to pay, it could be either gaskets or cam and lifters!!
timing chain etc here already, just waiting form ARP to get back to RS re studs.
I will do a parts lay out pic when its all here, there is a lot!!!!!!
P76 Second Lot Of Pics Photos by fett8 | Photobucket
So been sorting front covers, three to choose from. The benefit of using the old style original one is that I have about 6 dizzys that will fit and it keeps it consistent with the rest of my rv8 fleet of engines
so I crack tested where the normally go along the oil pump shaft line and it passed! the other benefit is that its oil pump base plate was in the best shape of the three.I remember noisy saying along with some other guy about facing them up being a waste of time if you didn't get it hard anodized again? so as this one has a fair bit of anodizing left and you cant even feel a ridge with your nail I expect its ok but tell me what you lot think?
the front cover seal was held in on the inside with two self tappers and rtv silicone, not sure what thats about as I had to use the heat of the dishwasher to get it out anyway? also I put a pic up of one of the spares with the metal retainer on the outside, not seen one before- have you?
The blocks back and I filled the core plugs over with ultra grade epoxy (ask zen how good it is) they wont ever leak lol.
James the pics of the oil gallery plugs are there for you.
Everyone, how do you make sure the oil galleries are clear of swarf after machining before re-assembly? thinking particularly of the lifter ones and air just blowing swarf in further not out??
The circa 1981 dizzy drive gear turned up, needs some de-burring though- lazy brummy bastids!
the mains turned up from aus, dated 1991. some very light corrosion ont he white metal- you can see the finger prints lol. advice please!
brand new manufactured mains coming in june, choices!!! ????
heads arrived friday, will unwrap tomoz, I hope no damage!!!!
post office says another package waiting with £21 customs to pay, it could be either gaskets or cam and lifters!!
timing chain etc here already, just waiting form ARP to get back to RS re studs.
I will do a parts lay out pic when its all here, there is a lot!!!!!!
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
cant see the right pics
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
only shows 4 to me ?
fett
Well-Known Member
hang on this is confusin lol
try them now as it is a public album.
heres a direct link to one of them, can you see it?
4plug.jpg Photo by fett8 | Photobucket
try them now as it is a public album.
heres a direct link to one of them, can you see it?
4plug.jpg Photo by fett8 | Photobucket
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
got it ,but cant tell much from the pic
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
just the 1 in the last link
