jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
thicker rather than thinner,not fully synthetic
Will do. Next two weekends I'm tied up, but will change the oil after that. Only changed the oil about 1500 miles ago, but will defo try the thicker oil.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
youve nothing to lose and its worth trying everything
Very true, mate. Even if it reduces the oil consumption until I bite the bullet and try it. Just been Googling 15W40 mineral oil. Halfords own bviously pops up, but it says itself that its cr@p, a basic oil, offering basic protection that should be changed regularly. HALFORDS
I'll keep Googling. Is mineral oil generally sh@t?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
no, turbos were running on it in the 80s, if you cant find any try a semi,synthetic obviously far outlast mineral but most of us wouldnt leave it in that long anyhow
This stuff sounds better Triple QX though it says ACEA A3 B3 E2 and my handbook says ACEA B2-96
Not really sure what that means though
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
try a semi, i expect to see suitable for turbosThis stuff sounds better Triple QX though it says ACEA A3 B3 E2 and my handbook says ACEA B2-96
Not really sure what that means though
Will do, James. Thanks again. Work in the morning, so calling it a night. cheers.
Goc3k
Well-Known Member
Total quartz 5000 mineral 15w-40 would get my recommendation, meets acea a3/b3 so is fine for a 300tdi, to help with any last potential running in to be done
Alternatively the current reformulated Castrol GTX is semi synthetic, but has a very low synthetic element and less detergents than most semi synths
Both are rather expensive though unfortunately
Alternatively the current reformulated Castrol GTX is semi synthetic, but has a very low synthetic element and less detergents than most semi synths
Both are rather expensive though unfortunately
Cheers, for that I'll do a bit of Google for prices and where I can get it near here.
An update on next plan!
@jamesmartin keeps telling me it won't be the valve guides. However, last night I was still determined to clutch at straws by barking up the wrong tree. To that end I decided to email Turner Engineering and ask for a quote to get the valve guides replaced (Obviously I've got a question mark, re decent honing, hanging over the engine machine shop I used for the re-bore) Turners emailed me back, last night! Told me to call them today as they wanted to talk to me about the engine! Their support is second to none. Anyway, I called them this morning and they repeated what James said. Chances of it being the valve guides is slim. I told them about James' honing suggestion and they agreed that it could be it.
Because of my initial turbo passing a lot of oil when the engine was first going through the running in process, they suggested that there may be an outside chance that oil that oil may have affected the combustion enough to either glaze the new bores or create carbon build up on the rings. Before I take it apart again they said it would be worth getting some 'Millers glaze busting oil', Millers fuel additives and use 'V Power' type fuel with extra cleaning agents etc. It might be clutching at straws again, but worth a bash before I start taking the head off and stripping the pistons out.
Goc3k
Well-Known Member
Sounds plausible that does
This stuff is like marmite, have heard so many stories about it good and bad. Download the data sheet and follow the instructions, as un manly as that might be - think they're quite specific Deffo worth the try before the strip down
Yes, it's worth a try. Might as well while I'm waiting for the weather to warm up, cos I've only got the drive to strip the engine on. Turners suggested that I call Millers and talk to their technical department as they are good and very helpful.Sounds plausible that does
This stuff is like marmite, have heard so many stories about it good and bad. Download the data sheet and follow the instructions, as un manly as that might be - think they're quite specific Deffo worth the try before the strip down
I'll also have a look at the IC, IC pipework and manifold for oil. I checked the replacement turbo for a week or two after I fitted it, but haven't checked it for passing oil since. Clutching at straws again, but the replacement might be passing a lot of oil now. I need to rule it out.
I've seen the PDF download link for the data sheet, I'll download it and have a look. The basic description said that it must not be used for more than 200 miles.
Goc3k
Well-Known Member
And that would be no fun on the drive in the cold and wet especially. Yeah it cant hurt to give them a bell, never know what handy insights you might've had if you don't try.
Suppose you've already checked the oil return from the turbo and the crank breather system umpteen times by now as well as its been said before. Not much else to cause a healthy new charger to spew the slippy stuff at a noticeable level
Aye that's the best bet. Don't suppose you can see glazing without pulling the head off with one of those inspection cameras down an injector port, as an extra thought?
Suppose you've already checked the oil return from the turbo and the crank breather system umpteen times by now as well as its been said before. Not much else to cause a healthy new charger to spew the slippy stuff at a noticeable level
Aye that's the best bet. Don't suppose you can see glazing without pulling the head off with one of those inspection cameras down an injector port, as an extra thought?
Haven't checked all that for about 6k miles
Need to rule all that out though. I do have a cheap USB endoscope camera and will have a look in before I start the additive treatment.
Spoke to Millers oils technical department today, as recommended by Turners Engineering. As with Turners they recommended using a glaze busting oil for 200 miles, the putting in CRO 10w40 (Competition Running in Oil) for 500 miles. He thought adding their diesel additive was worth a try, but the oils stood the best chance of doing something. I might as well give this a go, even if for just gaining experience, while I'm waiting for better weather for driveway engine dismantling. You never know, I might just be lucky.
Oil consumption update after only two weeks of checking it.
A reminder of first week it used 850ml of oil in 276 miles
Second week it hasn't used any in 270 miles Strange!
Obviously, I need to check it over may weeks. However, unless it suddenly stops using the oil I'll still be going down the glaze busting oil and then the self honing if that doesn't work.
A reminder of first week it used 850ml of oil in 276 miles
Second week it hasn't used any in 270 miles Strange!
Obviously, I need to check it over may weeks. However, unless it suddenly stops using the oil I'll still be going down the glaze busting oil and then the self honing if that doesn't work.
Well, I've just got my finger out and bought this Millers Glaze Busting oil It's got to be worth a bash.
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
Hope it works al ! all the oil from the first turbo prob dint help !
Fingers crossed, mate. Might be clutching at straws, but it's worth a try.
Don't mind taking the head off, taking sump off, taking pistons and oil squirts out
But, I'd rather not. If I'm very lucky and £55 quids worth of oil sorts it, then I'll believe in miracles. All my fingers and toes are crossed.
This weeks oil check has revealed some oil consumption this week after last weeks apparent zero usage. So, took 500ml to get level back to my target mid way between upper and lower limit lines on dipstick. That was over two weeks driving of 506 miles. The consumption appears to be getting less. However, the number of times I've checked it accurately means that statistically it's not a valid assessment.
Anyway, this arrived yesterday.
Mrs needs to go to shops, so going to have a toastie and then have a run out to warm it up. Glaze bust in this afternoon
Anyway, this arrived yesterday.
Mrs needs to go to shops, so going to have a toastie and then have a run out to warm it up. Glaze bust in this afternoon
