I, that could have been nasty.At least you did not suck...................
Cheers
julianf
Well-Known Member
Just blew down the pipe instead.
And the other way? Blowing up, into the base of the cyclone? Through to the intake ducting all ok?
I'll try that tomorrow. However, that will just vent in to the rocker cover as well as the vent to the air intake. I can take the cyclone off and blow though all the holes while blocking some off in turn. I've already done this, but may have been with the new cyclone unit, which I have taken off. The new one that's on now I don't think I've blown through.
julianf
Well-Known Member
If you put your thumb over the hose you were blowing down before, id say that the flow shouldnt go through the rocker cover, but into the intake duct.
Im just on about completing the test to check that both halves of the engine can vent pressure / stay at atmospheric.
Im just on about completing the test to check that both halves of the engine can vent pressure / stay at atmospheric.
julianf
Well-Known Member
when you blew into the sump, im thinking the air must have come out of the port on the rocker cover, and into the cyclone? ie back out the bottom of the cyclone or back into the inlet tract.
just putting your finger on the bottom of the cyclone would, i guess, do the same as the test above?
just putting your finger on the bottom of the cyclone would, i guess, do the same as the test above?
No, I took the pipe off the bottom of the cyclone and blew in to it.
This was to test if it was blocked down in to the sump. It was effortless to blow down, so not blocked. I could hear the oil bubbling in the sump though, so the oil level must have been just slightly above where that pipe open in to the sump area. If that makes sense?!
Ah, with you. Yes, it must have gone through the vent pipe up in to the rocker cover. So, tomorrow, I'll do that again and use my finger over the holes in the cyclone to feel the air I'm blowing in to the sump come back out. With you now, cheers Julian
Yep, I'll do that tomorrow.
Set this up and set it away ticking over on the drive.
Noticed a clickety chirping sound while I was stood there.
I couldn't tell where it was coming from. Everywhere I put my ear I could hear it.
Checked tappet clearances. Ok.
Put the rocker cover back on and turned it over with the socket wrench still attached to the crank nut.
As soon as I heard a rattle I turned the key back. Fortunately she didn't fire up, but the wrench handle took a bit out of the bottom of the radiator cowl and badly bent one of the power steering pipes. What an idiot
Started it up properly without the socket! Chirping still there and I suspect the alternator.
What a day! Any thoughts on my turbo and now that noise?
Still need to investigate the chirping, though I still think it's the alternator.
Got the power steering pipes changed today.
This is the one I bent.
Where that bend is, in the middle of the picture, it was actually wrapped in a circle around the socket I had on the crank pulley nut
I managed to straighten it out to what you see there. Just managing not to snap the pipe as I straightened it up a bit, but only just.
You can see the severity of the bends in the picture above. They would have started to work harden snap, if I'd straightened them any further I reckon. I took it for a careful test drive and they didn't leak. I used the Landy for work last week. Didn't want it to fail with the Mrs driving after the diesel run away she endured when the engine carped
I'm a very considerate and caring husband
Took bottom pipe off cyclone and side pipe that goes in to air intake. Blew in to bottom pipe - oil gurgle sound but air went straight through. Put a finger and thumb over the two cyclone outlets and tried again. I could feel pressure building up on my finger and thumb and I could release it by easing either my finger or thumb off. Breathers must all be working as they should I reckon.
Took the aux belt off and the chirping stopped, so must be the alternator bearing. (brand new water pump) old alternator.
Took the aux belt off and the chirping stopped, so must be the alternator bearing. (brand new water pump) old alternator.
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Chirping is normally a worn aux belt tensioner. There is a thin plastic bearing/spacer (about 0.5 to 1 mm thick) between the two main castings of the tensioner. If you take the tensioner off and look at the thickness of this bit all the way around you will probably find it is thinner (worn) on one side. The wear means that the pulley goes slightly out of alignment so the belt tries to track across the pulley but then gets pulled back by the water pump pulley which causes the chirping noise.
Hmm, hadn't considered the tensioner as it as new a year ago. Got it from local LR specialist so it will be a Britpart one. I could try the old listening stick technique to try and specifically pin point the sound.
What do alternator bearings sound like when they are on the way out?
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Chirping / noisy belts are normally caused by a pulley misalignment somewhere, have a search on YouTube for 'Noisy belts' using the water is better than oil as the oil will degrade the belt over time, it may assist in your investigation. Worn bearings normally give a steady whining/whirring noise (rpm dependant obviously), if the bearing had degraded to the point where it is making that sort of chirping noise I would have thought you would be able to feel it when turning the alternator pulley by hand.Hmm, hadn't considered the tensioner as it as new a year ago. Got it from local LR specialist so it will be a Britpart one. I could try the old listening stick technique to try and specifically pin point the sound.
What do alternator bearings sound like when they are on the way out?
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Have you had a good look at all your pulleys with it running, there should be no sign of any lateral belt movement anywhere. When I had an issue it was caused by a slightly warped viscous fan pulley (you could just see the pulley ribs moving in and out if you held something close to it as a fixed point). I think that bit of distortion was causing the belt to move side to side ever so slightly but it was enough to cause wear in the tensioner. I went through 2 belts and 1 tensioner before I realised that the distorted pulley was the main culprit. After changing that and a new belt & tensioner if has been fine for 10K+ miles and still going whereas just changing the belt and tensioner would only 'cure' the noise for about 3000 miles at a time.
The alternator doesn't feel the smoothest when you turn the pulley by hand. It's been on since I bought the Landy, 12 years ago, 100K miles. It's doing well I think.
You've got me thinking about the belt and pulleys though! I've noticed that the smooth side of the belt is not that smooth! I'll look up noisy belts on youtube. Cheers!
Used that exact search term and watched the top video in the list.
This one
When I get home from work tomorrow I'll be doing the water trick
