No bother 200 miles it is, oil and filter.
What do you reckon after that, JM? Next 1000 miles as neilly is considering?
No bother 200 miles it is, oil and filter.
What do you reckon after that, JM? Next 1000 miles as neilly is considering?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
id go 6 -8k as normal then,all the running in stuff is gone and once you got rings/bores run in a good oil to keep them that way
That's reassuring, though I think my bottle will go before 6K and I'll probably change it before then.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
the bearings run it within a few turns the bores a few tens of miles depending on load you can fully run an engine in in 20 mins with a dyno,once thats flushed out its just lube and coolingThat's reassuring, though I think my bottle will go before 6K and I'll probably change it before then.
the bearings run it within a few turns the bores a few tens of miles depending on load you can fully run an engine in in 20 mins with a dyno,once thats flushed out its just lube and cooling
That's very interesting to know. I reckon I've given it a pretty good run in tonight! That was a canny tough route with some fast stretches and a big, steep up hill and another long, not so steep, pull back to the village.I'll take her for another, longer drive tomorrow and change the oil and filter on Tuesday night.
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
WELL DONE !! + a GREAT WRITE UP !!
Cheers, mate. Got there eventually.WELL DONE !! + a GREAT WRITE UP !!
Fingers crossed it behaves itself.
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
Get it run in then put a throttle stop on it Just in case your lass starts racing the little boy's from the lights !
Just in case your lass starts racing the little boy's from the lights !
lol, it's no Ferrari (other than the colour of the engine paint), but it's pulling better than it's ever done I reckon. Even back when I bought it eleven years ago and at seventy odd thousand milesGet it run in then put a throttle stop on it
Well, nothing has leaked out over night.
I've investigated the air box and it seems to be solid. Obviously the top plate is bolted through the cylinder head bolts, but I thought the support bar underneath might be slack. It does seem to wander about a bit on that video
I've got a few gaskets spare
Never found out what a lot of those copper washers were for
I'm going to give her a blast down the A1 to the Toon and buy more oil and a filter.
I've investigated the air box and it seems to be solid. Obviously the top plate is bolted through the cylinder head bolts, but I thought the support bar underneath might be slack. It does seem to wander about a bit on that video
I've got a few gaskets spare
Never found out what a lot of those copper washers were for
I'm going to give her a blast down the A1 to the Toon and buy more oil and a filter.
Toonarf
Active Member
Hi Al 203
Firstly thanks for an entertaining read, you have carried out your rebuild well and should have many years excellent service from your engine.
I agree with James "running in" rings, pistons and bores has to be done with load especially with a diesel. When I rebuilt a 6BTA Cummins with new pistons a few years ago I was shocked to learn that the recommendation from Cummins was to build the engine, run for no more that 10 mins at idle to check for leaks and then take on a Motorway or Dual Carriageway and repeatedly drive from 30mph to 56mph in top gear at full throttle followed by a slow down with the throttle closed. this was to be repeated 15 or 20 time and after which the vehicle was ready to return to service. The driver was not expected to "run in" his new engine, the Mechanic did it on his road test. Glazed bores can be recovered by the engine being put under heavy load, my mate has a canal narrow boat with a Gardner 2LW engine which he takes upstream on a river at least once a year to load up and stop his oil leaks because the engine is really too powerful for canal use and so over time glazes the bores.
Hope this helps
David
Firstly thanks for an entertaining read, you have carried out your rebuild well and should have many years excellent service from your engine.
I agree with James "running in" rings, pistons and bores has to be done with load especially with a diesel. When I rebuilt a 6BTA Cummins with new pistons a few years ago I was shocked to learn that the recommendation from Cummins was to build the engine, run for no more that 10 mins at idle to check for leaks and then take on a Motorway or Dual Carriageway and repeatedly drive from 30mph to 56mph in top gear at full throttle followed by a slow down with the throttle closed. this was to be repeated 15 or 20 time and after which the vehicle was ready to return to service. The driver was not expected to "run in" his new engine, the Mechanic did it on his road test. Glazed bores can be recovered by the engine being put under heavy load, my mate has a canal narrow boat with a Gardner 2LW engine which he takes upstream on a river at least once a year to load up and stop his oil leaks because the engine is really too powerful for canal use and so over time glazes the bores.
Hope this helps
David
Cheers, David.
More interesting tips, just in time for the trip to Newcastle. I was planning on driving her hard and legally fast ( in case @neilly is reading this
) but I will do the slow down and speed up thing in top gear, when it is safe to do so. Got a few canny hills to go up too, so I'll take them as hard as I can in as high a gear. Why 56mph? were they limited?
Hey @Al2O3 , I am so very pleased for you, but also very sad - it has been a massive pleasure to watch this thread and for you to allow us to join you on this journey, I am really going to be quite sad not to have the exciting updates every few days or so to go through.
Your dedication to getting everything right, asking a lot of questions and learning has been a true inspiration to many of us, me included, and shows that through determination, friendship and a great online community we can truly exceed our own expectations and skill.
There are not many I doff my cap to (as I am an arrogant bas'rd) but to you, sir, I doff my cap and truly salute you and your stirling efforts.
Well done, next time you crack a can of Guinness - pretend I paid for it.
Your dedication to getting everything right, asking a lot of questions and learning has been a true inspiration to many of us, me included, and shows that through determination, friendship and a great online community we can truly exceed our own expectations and skill.
There are not many I doff my cap to (as I am an arrogant bas'rd) but to you, sir, I doff my cap and truly salute you and your stirling efforts.
Well done, next time you crack a can of Guinness - pretend I paid for it.
Hey @Al2O3 , I am so very pleased for you, but also very sad - it has been a massive pleasure to watch this thread and for you to allow us to join you on this journey, I am really going to be quite sad not to have the exciting updates every few days or so to go through.
Your dedication to getting everything right, asking a lot of questions and learning has been a true inspiration to many of us, me included, and shows that through determination, friendship and a great online community we can truly exceed our own expectations and skill.
There are not many I doff my cap to (as I am an arrogant bas'rd) but to you, sir, I doff my cap and truly salute you and your stirling efforts.
Well done, next time you crack a can of Guinness - pretend I paid for it.
Cheers, Saint. I'm not sure I deserve that, but it is greatly appreciated non the less. Thank you.
I've just got back home after a long run out. During the trip I was planning a thank you to everyone, so you've just pipped me a bit there. I was thinking about @ tagging people, but it would be too risky to miss someone out. A large number of people have helped me, some a lot and some just a little, but every little helps. I am extremely grateful for all of the help, advice and reassurance I've had from everyone. Even loaned and donated tools! Unbelieveable
A MASSIVE THANK YOU to everyone. Towards completion, the engine rebuild felt different to the body/chassis rebuild. More pressure I reckon, probably because all of the work ultimately comes down to the turn of a key and the sudden outcome could be a bad one. The extra pressure certainly took the appreciation of all of the help from LZ members to a new level. As you said, It's amazing what you can do when you have this level of support.
I've now done 85 pretty hard miles in it since it first started yesterday. Drove down to the coast and had a sandwich looking out to sea and St Mary's Lighthouse.
Typical bank holiday weather.
Called in to Halfords and bought some oil and a filter. Change it tomorrow night I think as the Mrs wants me to take stuff to the tip. @jamesmartin recommended 200 miles ish, but based on what he said about miles to run bearings and bores in I think 85 hard miles will be enough.
Popped the bonnet when I got back on the drive, to look for leaks. I'm being paranoid here, but the engine was giving off some heat. I could put the flat of my hand on the rocker cover top for more than half a second. I have not put the rubber sound cover on. That was at the end of a 35 mile return journey ending in a 1.25mile up hill in 5th in to the village. Because I've never focused on this before I'm not sure if that sounds too hot?
I can see where you're coming from
For me, I had little choice because it had catastrophically failed. I could have put a second hand engine in, but didn't feel that was worth it given the work I'd done to the chassis and body. I'd half thought about it as a retirement project, for in say 5 years time
I wouldn't have done it now if I'd had the choice. However, if I can do it, you can!
Well, I've listed all of the parts, tools, services and consumables involved in the engine rebuild. ( I might have missed a few items) I remember @neilly asking about it. To save you looking down to the bottom I've spent £1,805 That said it's probably good value for a reconditioned engine including new water pump, oil rotor, timing belt, clutch and turbo. Plus, a fair bit was spent on the tools required which I will now have for a long time to use on future maintenance. Though, hopefully, I won't need the engine stand for a while
I recorded the costs in a spreadsheet, but it loses the format copying it in to the website so the column aren't lined up I'm afraid. There are four columns Part Name, unit Cost, No Off, Total Cost.
PART Name COST No Off TOTAL COST
Pistons and Rings £55.80 4 £223.20
Bearing set -Mains £27.00 1 £27.00
Bearing set -Conrods £23.40 1 £23.40
Bearing set camshaft £23.40 1 £23.40
Thrust washer £7.20 1 £7.20
Inlet valve £5.70 4 £22.80
Exhaust valve £5.70 4 £22.80
cylinder head gasket £16.82 1 £16.82
Cylinder head bolts £30.00 1 £30.00
Fuel Injectors £175.00 1 £175.00
valve caps £19.08 1 £19.08
core plug £0.89 6 £5.34
gasket set top (Elring) £42.00 1 £42.00
gasket set bottom (Elring) £50.54 1 £50.54
Rear oil seal £42.30 1 £42.30
Aux Drive Belt £15.05 1 £15.05
Hylomar instant gasket (tube) £11.86 1 £11.86
Clutch kit £128.49 1 £128.49
Oil pump spring £18.17 1 £18.17
Water pump £30.60 1 £30.60
Oil pump rotor kit £30.00 1 £30.00
Timing belt kit £64.99 1 £64.99
rebore, head skim, valve lapping £196.00 1 £196.00
spill pipe kit £23.00 1 £23.00
polyurethene pipe £6.00 1 £6.00
oil filter £5.00 2 £10.00
oil £5.00 12 £60.00
Torque angle gauge £8.99 1 £8.99
Piston ring compressor £6.49 1 £6.49
Piston ring pliers £5.69 1 £5.69
300Tdi Timing tool kit £19.99 1 £19.99
Dial test gauge £15.29 1 £15.29
wire wheels £20.00 1 £20.00
feeler gauges £4.44 1 £4.44
feeler gauges angled £4.94 1 £4.94
autosol £3.99 1 £3.99
viscous fan spanner £7.19 1 £7.19
breaker bar £12.20 1 £12.20
Valve spring compressor £8.39 1 £8.39
27mm impact socket £5.95 1 £5.95
15mm wall drive socket £2.80 1 £2.80
EGR Blanking kit £10.44 1 £10.44
gun gum £3.99 1 £3.99
Beam torque wrench £11.90 1 £11.90
engine block paint £7.99 1 £7.99
Turbo 300Tdi £240.00 1 £240.00
Brake cleaner £13.99 1 £13.99
Brake cleaner applicator £18.88 1 £18.88
engine stand £46.98 1 £46.98
£1,805.56
That said it's probably good value for a reconditioned engine including new water pump, oil rotor, timing belt, clutch and turbo. Plus, a fair bit was spent on the tools required which I will now have for a long time to use on future maintenance. Though, hopefully, I won't need the engine stand for a while I recorded the costs in a spreadsheet, but it loses the format copying it in to the website so the column aren't lined up I'm afraid. There are four columns Part Name, unit Cost, No Off, Total Cost.
PART Name COST No Off TOTAL COST
Pistons and Rings £55.80 4 £223.20
Bearing set -Mains £27.00 1 £27.00
Bearing set -Conrods £23.40 1 £23.40
Bearing set camshaft £23.40 1 £23.40
Thrust washer £7.20 1 £7.20
Inlet valve £5.70 4 £22.80
Exhaust valve £5.70 4 £22.80
cylinder head gasket £16.82 1 £16.82
Cylinder head bolts £30.00 1 £30.00
Fuel Injectors £175.00 1 £175.00
valve caps £19.08 1 £19.08
core plug £0.89 6 £5.34
gasket set top (Elring) £42.00 1 £42.00
gasket set bottom (Elring) £50.54 1 £50.54
Rear oil seal £42.30 1 £42.30
Aux Drive Belt £15.05 1 £15.05
Hylomar instant gasket (tube) £11.86 1 £11.86
Clutch kit £128.49 1 £128.49
Oil pump spring £18.17 1 £18.17
Water pump £30.60 1 £30.60
Oil pump rotor kit £30.00 1 £30.00
Timing belt kit £64.99 1 £64.99
rebore, head skim, valve lapping £196.00 1 £196.00
spill pipe kit £23.00 1 £23.00
polyurethene pipe £6.00 1 £6.00
oil filter £5.00 2 £10.00
oil £5.00 12 £60.00
Torque angle gauge £8.99 1 £8.99
Piston ring compressor £6.49 1 £6.49
Piston ring pliers £5.69 1 £5.69
300Tdi Timing tool kit £19.99 1 £19.99
Dial test gauge £15.29 1 £15.29
wire wheels £20.00 1 £20.00
feeler gauges £4.44 1 £4.44
feeler gauges angled £4.94 1 £4.94
autosol £3.99 1 £3.99
viscous fan spanner £7.19 1 £7.19
breaker bar £12.20 1 £12.20
Valve spring compressor £8.39 1 £8.39
27mm impact socket £5.95 1 £5.95
15mm wall drive socket £2.80 1 £2.80
EGR Blanking kit £10.44 1 £10.44
gun gum £3.99 1 £3.99
Beam torque wrench £11.90 1 £11.90
engine block paint £7.99 1 £7.99
Turbo 300Tdi £240.00 1 £240.00
Brake cleaner £13.99 1 £13.99
Brake cleaner applicator £18.88 1 £18.88
engine stand £46.98 1 £46.98
£1,805.56
I, for one, suddenly find myself with a lot of time on my hands.
