@Disco1BFG I've been looking at silicone tube. Is it really suitable for fuel? I've looked at a few that say they aren't. Do you have a link to silicone that is cured in a way that makes it fuel resistant?

Well, I bought this stuff off evil bay on the 4th June 2015

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190893541918

It doesn't say in the current listing that it is suitable for fuel, but, I agree, many of the listings do say that the listed pipe is NOT suitable.... AFAIK, I haven't got any fuel leaks, so ????

The original listing is long gone, so I can't check what I bought !

Al2O3 said:

I should look up a how to on LZ. There'll be one

Click to expand...

Looked at mine today and I have removed all three pipes from the valve, the thin one goes to the intake pipework just by the air filter outlet, one of the bottom pipes goes to the EGR and the other one was 'T'd into the pipe between the vac pump and the brake servo IIRC (I replaced the pipe between the pump and servo with a one piece item so its not there for me to look at).

Kwakerman said:

Looked at mine today and I have removed all three pipes from the valve, the thin one goes to the intake pipework just by the air filter outlet, one of the bottom pipes goes to the EGR and the other one was 'T'd into the pipe between the vac pump and the brake servo IIRC (I replaced the pipe between the pump and servo with a one piece item so its not there for me to look at).

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Met some friends after work tonight so home late. Will check out those pipes asap. Thanks for the description.

Just read through from the start - very nice work there!
This would be a good thread to pin

Very excited to know how much quieter & smoother/better it might be after the rebuild - I've got one to do at some point...

Saltlick said:

Very excited to know how much quieter & smoother/better it might be after the rebuild - I've got one to do at some point...

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Me too!
I'm trying not to build my hopes up because they are fairly noisy engines anyway and so I may not notice any discernible difference. I'm trying not to picture images of standing a 10p coin on it's edge on the rocker cover top.
It will be interesting though. However, it's got to start first!

Rain has stopped play. Hopefully, just for an hour while the forecast thunderstorm happens. Doesn't look dark enough yet.

Started with the turbo as I needed to seal the pipes. Unbolted the turbo and inlet manifold and lifted them off.
Cleaned the ends of the turbo pipe.

Applied the gun gum to the pipe so I wouldn't shove any gum inside when I slid the pipes in.

Refitted the turbo and began connecting the oil flow and return pipes. CAUTION when fitting the oil return pipe and bolting it from under the turbo, remember to take out the plastic plug from the hole! You can't see it at this stage and it is easily forgotten about Would have serious consequences if you didn't remember it!
Primed the turbo with oil.

I carefully rotated the the blades to ease the oil in. The level dropped about 6mm and I topped it up finishing with the syringe vertical. sealing the hole and squirting the remaining oil in. Tightened all of the fittings and used new copper washers on the fuel banjo connector.
Connected the exhaust with a new gasket.

Polished the dip stick tube and fitted it.

The wiring harness that comes along under the air filter and around the front of the engine had been contaminated by the oil leakage and the tape was coming away.

Cleaned it up with some brake cleaner soaked blue roll and the re-taped it and fed it through around the engine to the front
Cleaned the terminals, washers and nuts on the alternator and end of wire connections.

Wired it up.

And put the painted shield back on.

I then bolted the alternator in place.
I'd ordered some polyurethane tube to make up a spill pipe assembly. The delivery turned out not possible until 31st May, so I bout a Britpart one from the local LR independant on Friday. Damn tube arrived this morning only cost about six quid

Not sure if I should go full fancy pants with the red tube
I'll have to use the existing connector to the FIP and not the new one. The metal tube from this connection has an olive arrangement to connect to the fuel tank return pipe and I have not got a new olive! Bad planning/research there.
Other things I've got done this morning are; torqued down the injectors, tightened the heater plugs in. I put a smear of copper slip on the threads to ease future removal.. Fitted the cyclone breather.
Just waiting for the rain to stop.

Just a thought for consideration, when new turbos are installed I think that some people often disconnect the return oil pipe and put it into an open container, so when you start the engine it's pessible to see the oil flow immediately then stop the engine and couple the pipe back into the return.
I wondered about unhooking the waste gate linkage and start it with the gate jammed open so that it will stay on relatively low revs at first giving the oil a good chance to circulate for a few minutes then shut down and hook it back up.
Don't know if anyone has fitted a new turbo and has any tips?

raywin said:

Just a thought for consideration, when new turbos are installed I think that some people often disconnect the return oil pipe and put it into an open container, so when you start the engine it's pessible to see the oil flow immediately then stop the engine and couple the pipe back into the return.
I wondered about unhooking the waste gate linkage and start it with the gate jammed open so that it will stay on relatively low revs at first giving the oil a good chance to circulate for a few minutes then shut down and hook it back up.
Don't know if anyone has fitted a new turbo and has any tips?

Click to expand...

Cheers, raywin. I am considering doing this as it describes it in the fitting instructions that came on the turbo box. I'm wondering what is going to stop the oil flowing and, therefore, why do you need to watch it coming out? What will I do if oil doesn't come out? I can only think that this would happen if the oil pump wasn't working, but I'm sure it will. The oil warning light would come on anyway? I suppose there's no harm other than a bit of mess probably.

I think you need to disconnect the far end of the oil pipe and push it into a clear plastic bottle, I suppose the idea is that any possible oil blockage or problem would wipe out the turbo bearings in no time due to the rotation speed, so it's a belt and braces tactic designed to add a layer of protection for the precious turbo. Given the price of a turbo might be worth considering.

If you do disconnect the turbo oil return, then do so from the engine block union - trying to get the fitting back on that sits under the turbo is a total faff.

Just a thought, I'm not familiar with the 300 engine but if you go ahead with this check if you need to plug the return to preven crankcase pressure blowing oil all over the place.
I save those lumps of silicon which always set in the nozzle of the silicon gun they are nice and soft and tapered come in handy for plugging up all kinds of things.

Saint.V8 said:

If you do disconnect the turbo oil return, then do so from the engine block union - trying to get the fitting back on that sits under the turbo is a total faff.

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It was a faff putting it on today. Should have put it on before I fitted the turbo perhaps.

raywin said:

Just a thought, I'm not familiar with the 300 engine but if you go ahead with this check if you need to plug the return to preven crankcase pressure blowing oil all over the place.
I save those lumps of silicon which always set in the nozzle of the silicon gun they are nice and soft and tapered come in handy for plugging up all kinds of things.

Click to expand...

I'll tape a bag over it. It's a large hole so would be too big for a silicone sprue, even if I had one

Got bored during the rain so decided to take apart the new spill pipe assembly.

Fitted the new polyurethane tube to the new connections

The larger diameter red tube I'd bought for the final piece back to the FIP was too slack on the connections and so I had to use the new black pipe. Also had to transfer the old FIP to fuel tank return fitting as it had an olive fixing and I didn't have a new olive and nut. It didn't mention that when you were buying the new pipe kit.
Looks a bit flash on Matches the block though

Set everything up to do the timing




Must get under there and clean the gearbox casing a bit so it matches the bell housing
Loosened the three nuts on the FIP pulley and made sure all of the pulley wheels were clean.
Put some copperslip on the crank shaft.

Slipped the crank pulley on and torques the idler pulley up to 45N.m


Then I realised that I needed an allen key to fit in to the torque wrench to tighten the tensioner to 45N.m
Got the angle grinder out and cut the end off an allen key

Fits perfectly in to a 6mm hex socket
Got the Mrs to tension the pulley with the beam torque wrench while I torqued up the bolt.

It's not easy to judge the torque for the tensioner, but it was just nudging the 10ft pounds. This is a little over 11N.m, but I'm hoping it will be ok.
The rocker shaft was just temporarily loosely bolted in place, so before I started with the 'rotate the engine twice to check alignment' I decided to fit it properly.
I loosened off all the tappets. I suppose, in theory, they should be too far out. But, I'm going to have to set them anyway and didn't want them under undue strain by me turning the engine if the weren't right.
Cleaned the two bolts and three studs/nuts.
Applied engine lube to the necessary bits.


Fitted the new valve caps and put lube on top of them.


Fitter the rocker shaft and tightened them hand tight and then another 50 degrees as per the manual.
Blurry picture.


I was going to fit the new crank pulley seal in the casing, but wanted to check if it was in the right way.

This is how it was, with the 'open' side of the seal facing out over. Is that right?
The manual says 'fit new seal, open side fitted in to recess'. what does that mean? My casing doesn't have a 'recess' if that means with a shoulder for the seal to fit up against.
I'm wondering if mine was fitted the wrong way?
That was it for today. Pleased with the progress though.

A lip seal should be fitted with the open side I.e. The side facing up in your picture towards the oil (or other liquid) and the closed side to the environment.
Thought it might be better explained here
http://www.tribonet.org/after-the-mystery-of-rotary-lip-seals/

raywin said:

A lip seal should be fitted with the open side I.e. The side facing up in your picture towards the oil (or other liquid) and the closed side to the environment.
Thought it might be better explained here
http://www.tribonet.org/after-the-mystery-of-rotary-lip-seals/

Click to expand...

This is what occurred to me. Then I thought that as there is nothing in the timing case, maybe the seal is the other way around to stop rain getting in.

Al2O3 said:

It was a faff putting it on today. Should have put it on before I fitted the turbo perhaps.


I'll tape a bag over it. It's a large hole so would be too big for a silicone sprue, even if I had one

Got bored during the rain so decided to take apart the new spill pipe assembly.
View attachment 124434
Fitted the new polyurethane tube to the new connections
View attachment 124435
The larger diameter red tube I'd bought for the final piece back to the FIP was too slack on the connections and so I had to use the new black pipe. Also had to transfer the old FIP to fuel tank return fitting as it had an olive fixing and I didn't have a new olive and nut. It didn't mention that when you were buying the new pipe kit.
Looks a bit flash on Matches the block though
View attachment 124436
Set everything up to do the timing
View attachment 124437
View attachment 124438
View attachment 124439
View attachment 124440
Must get under there and clean the gearbox casing a bit so it matches the bell housing
Loosened the three nuts on the FIP pulley and made sure all of the pulley wheels were clean.
Put some copperslip on the crank shaft.
View attachment 124441
Slipped the crank pulley on and torques the idler pulley up to 45N.m
View attachment 124442

Then I realised that I needed an allen key to fit in to the torque wrench to tighten the tensioner to 45N.m
Got the angle grinder out and cut the end off an allen key
View attachment 124443
Fits perfectly in to a 6mm hex socket
Got the Mrs to tension the pulley with the beam torque wrench while I torqued up the bolt.
View attachment 124444
It's not easy to judge the torque for the tensioner, but it was just nudging the 10ft pounds. This is a little over 11N.m, but I'm hoping it will be ok.
The rocker shaft was just temporarily loosely bolted in place, so before I started with the 'rotate the engine twice to check alignment' I decided to fit it properly.
I loosened off all the tappets. I suppose, in theory, they should be too far out. But, I'm going to have to set them anyway and didn't want them under undue strain by me turning the engine if the weren't right.
Cleaned the two bolts and three studs/nuts.
Applied engine lube to the necessary bits.
View attachment 124446

Fitted the new valve caps and put lube on top of them.
View attachment 124447

Fitter the rocker shaft and tightened them hand tight and then another 50 degrees as per the manual.
Blurry picture.
View attachment 124448

I was going to fit the new crank pulley seal in the casing, but wanted to check if it was in the right way.
View attachment 124449
This is how it was, with the 'open' side of the seal facing out over. Is that right?
The manual says 'fit new seal, open side fitted in to recess'. what does that mean? My casing doesn't have a 'recess' if that means with a shoulder for the seal to fit up against.
I'm wondering if mine was fitted the wrong way?
That was it for today. Pleased with the progress though.

Click to expand...

because the seal is to keep stuff out of the timing case seal fits open side out,though it doesnt matter in real life with that seal

jamesmartin said:

because the seal is to keep stuff out of the timing case seal fits open side out,though it doesnt matter in real life with that seal

Click to expand...

Cheers, James. So, current one was fitted correctly. Just seems a little strange so wanted to check.
Thanks, gentlemen.

Ah I see it now, I read the crank seal and did not realise about the seal being fitted on the timing casing which is dry, I can see now that it just keeps the muck out. It used to be common to fit a square felt seal in an application like that, but the lip seal should be better.
Edit
Would it be an idea to put some grease on the shaft where the lip runs? We have often found that when lip seals run un lubricated they soon wear and often cut into the shaft, on one large machine we had a thrower ring on the shaft just behind the seal, but it limited the oil reaching the seal and gave problems, we changed our design and dumped the thrower and issued a service bulitin to take it out when replacing a seal, this made them last longer.

raywin said:

Ah I see it now, I read the crank seal and did not realise about the seal being fitted on the timing casing which is dry, I can see now that it just keeps the muck out. It used to be common to fit a square felt seal in an application like that, but the lip seal should be better.

Click to expand...

Certainly had me wondering, cos it's a bit counter intuitive.
As JM says it's not going to be critical. The 'flinger' on the back of the pulley is gong to keep a lot of cr@p off it and what water does get there is not under pressure.

Al2O3 said:

Certainly had me wondering, cos it's a bit counter intuitive.
As JM says it's not going to be critical. The 'flinger' on the back of the pulley is gong to keep a lot of cr@p off it and what water does get there is not under pressure.

Click to expand...

Yes I agree in this application the seal would probably work fine either way.
You need to account for a Landy sometimes taking a dip but of course you won't expect it to be submerged for long periods.