Sounds like good news to me. :)
It's had a pretty hard first 100 miles. Steep hills, accelerated hard all the time, driven fast on the flat open road.
What would you recommend from here? More of the same for another hundred miles, two hundred miles or so? Or, normal driving from now on?

Another thought, it's in for the MOT in the morning. The emissions should be ok?
all you can do is more of the same longer runs are better than short
 
all you can do is more of the same longer runs are better than short
It's embarrassing, but honestly I've been worried sick. :oops:
Day off tomorrow, MOT at 9am, I'm now planning a long hard run out for the rest of the day. Scotland I think!
 
MOT booked for 9am today ....................passed with no advisories. :D:D:D:D:D:D
Then took it for a long drive of 118 miles. Stopped in Jedburgh for a coronation chicken baguette and then in Kelso for a latte. Absolutely gorgeous day up here. Anyway, drove her as hard as conditions allowed throughout the journey. She's pulling nicely and is still quiet and smooth (engine is anyway) At one point I pulled out to overtake some Sunday drivers on a long straight stretch. Was not far off 60mph when I realised I was still in fourth :eek: I reckon that's a good sign. :)
I've been looking at the emissions on the print off from the MOT and comparing them to last year.
Last years opacity reading was 0.61 (average coefficient 0.60) this years on the rebuilt engine is 0.40 (average coefficient 0.37)
So............. it's running cleaner at least. :) I'm not sure if 0.21 counts as a significant drop or if 0.40 is a good reading for a 300Tdi engine?
As the tester handed the certificate over I asked about the emissions and he said 'Oh, it had a reading of 0.40' with a sound of being impressed in his voice, so I'm taking that as a good sign. (He wasn't very talkative so didn't want to pursue it) Now I know a few of you gents are or have been MOT testers.............;)

When I got back on the drive I gave it a few high revs from the FIP so I could look up the side of the Landy. A lot less smoke! However, that's not a comparable test to yesterday as yesterday's was from cold and this was very hot. It'll be interesting to see what it's like when cold again.
 
Excellent, now just get on with driving it!
I know, I know, I'm trying. I'm desperate for the engine to stop smoking though. It would tell me I'd done a decent job and I tried my best and so want it to be as spot on as possible. It's not about the money spent. It's about pride in what I've done I think. And, as well as looking good, I want her to be running as well as possible. I'll be disappointed if it continues to smoke. If JM reads this he'll probably feel like giving me a slap. I know I have to be patient :rolleyes:

On another note, now that the engine is a lot quieter and smoother it's drawn my attention to other vibrations o_O I'm considering changing the UJ's :rolleyes:
 
If you are worried about the smoke feel free to exchange it with mine, 1996 as per yours, doesn't smoke and with 175k on it is fully run in:rolleyes::D
 
At the risk of P'ing some people off I thought I'd put an update. At least it will be useful for others to compare if they do the same with their engine.

This is at 248 miles since first start after rebuild. Those have been pretty hard miles, driving with hard accelleration and up some decent hills. Long runs with 118 miles in one day yesterday with just two short stops.
Checked the tappets. ALL of them were marginally smaller gapped than should have been. 0.2mm didn't quite go in although there was movement on the rocker. Adjusted them and reset them again.
Fired her up and got the Mrs to video again. This is from stone cold overnight.

Not what I had hoped to see after yestarday's long run and 248 miles. But, I'm trying to be patient! :rolleyes:
Clutching at straws a bit I fitted a new cyclone breather as the old one I had just cleaned out. I know there's not a lot in there, but there is that spring and rubber cap thing, so no idea if that was carped. Anyway, it made NO difference and still smoked the same.
Took it for a short run of about 6 miles. Tried to watch exhaust out of wing mirror as best I could. (should have took the Mrs) A little bit of smoke for the first mile and then struggled to see any.
Got back on the drive and revved it as per the video above. Could see only slight traces of smoke at hard revs.

I must say it is remarkably smooth and quiet to drive. Smooth acceleration and seems very torquey in 4th and 5th on an open bit of road.

I'm going away this weekend (from tonight) So, no more tinkering for a while....................you'll all be pleased to hear :rolleyes: :)
 
At the risk of P'ing some people off I thought I'd put an update. At least it will be useful for others to compare if they do the same with their engine.

This is at 248 miles since first start after rebuild. Those have been pretty hard miles, driving with hard accelleration and up some decent hills. Long runs with 118 miles in one day yesterday with just two short stops.
Checked the tappets. ALL of them were marginally smaller gapped than should have been. 0.2mm didn't quite go in although there was movement on the rocker. Adjusted them and reset them again.
Fired her up and got the Mrs to video again. This is from stone cold overnight.

Not what I had hoped to see after yestarday's long run and 248 miles. But, I'm trying to be patient! :rolleyes:
Clutching at straws a bit I fitted a new cyclone breather as the old one I had just cleaned out. I know there's not a lot in there, but there is that spring and rubber cap thing, so no idea if that was carped. Anyway, it made NO difference and still smoked the same.
Took it for a short run of about 6 miles. Tried to watch exhaust out of wing mirror as best I could. (should have took the Mrs) A little bit of smoke for the first mile and then struggled to see any.
Got back on the drive and revved it as per the video above. Could see only slight traces of smoke at hard revs.

I must say it is remarkably smooth and quiet to drive. Smooth acceleration and seems very torquey in 4th and 5th on an open bit of road.

I'm going away this weekend (from tonight) So, no more tinkering for a while....................you'll all be pleased to hear :rolleyes: :)


Have fun and enjoy the rest ...
 
If that vid is from cold, is that steam in the exhaust gas? There's always water vapour/steam in the exhaust when cold and I understand some in the engine too until warm..
I know it's been warm lately, but then again you post your location as oop norf, so it's always tit freezin up there aint it?! :)

Oh, and bloody good job - I might need to give it a try for a few days to see if it's worth rebuilding mine... :D
 
If that vid is from cold, is that steam in the exhaust gas? There's always water vapour/steam in the exhaust when cold and I understand some in the engine too until warm..
I know it's been warm lately, but then again you post your location as oop norf, so it's always tit freezin up there aint it?! :)

Oh, and bloody good job - I might need to give it a try for a few days to see if it's worth rebuilding mine... :D
I've no idea if that's steam, Saltlick. I could do a test with a cold object I suppose. When it stops raining that is.:rolleyes:

Had a drive in her tonight. First since last Thursday morning. Got back from a weekend away on Sunday night, but had two busy days at work :( so first drive tonight.
Felt great, very smooth and pulling well. :D Couldn't gauge any smoke as it was tipping down with rain.
 
Thought I'd put an update of engine rebuild progress.
The old (probably original 21yrs old) intercooler pipes were a bit soft, so I thought I'd replace them.
This was the set up.
IMG_6359.JPG

The pipe from the intercooler to the inlet manifold is new as it came with the EGR removal kit.
It's hard to tell from this video, but the old pipe from the turbo to metal pipe was pretty flexible and swelled up like a balloon when the turbo spooled up.

I'm guessing this must have been having an affect on boost, at least causing a bit of a delay. Maybe, a noticeable affect if it swelled even more as harder demand came on?
So, bought some new silicone intercooler pipes. Red ones, of course! :) :rolleyes:
Here they are installed.
IMG_6375.JPG

Took it for a test drive. Certainly felt more responsive especially in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Not sure it affected the top end speed much.
May all be auto-suggestion, but did feel better to me.

My oil pressure and turbo boost gauges have arrived from Demon Tweeks. :) Bought a 2 gauge holder to clamp in to the ash tray.
IMG_6377.JPG
Next weekend's project :)
 
Last edited:
Thought I'd put an update of engine rebuild progress.
The old (probably original 21yrs old) intercooler pipes were a bit soft, so I thought I'd replace them.
This was the set up.
View attachment 125835
The pipe from the intercooler to the inlet manifold is new as it came with the EGR removal kit.
It's hard to tell from this video, but the old pipe from the turbo to metal pipe was pretty flexible and swelled up like a balloon when the turbo spooled up.

I'm guessing this must have been having an affect on boost, at least causing a bit of a delay. Maybe, a noticeable affect if it swelled even more as harder demand came on?
So, bought some new silicone intercooler pipes. Red ones, of course! :) :rolleyes:
Here they are installed.
View attachment 125836
Took it for a test drive. Certainly felt more responsive especially in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Not sure it affected the top end speed much.
May all be auto-suggestion, but did feel better to me.

My oil pressure and turbo boost gauges have arrived from Demon Tweeks. :) Bought a 2 gauge holder to clamp in to the ash tray.
View attachment 125837 Next weekend's project :)


I've got a 4 gauge Mud pod in the same area. Getting the boost pipe to the gauge is a bit of a bugger, I put a 'T in the line to the FIP (just next to the throttle cable) then routed it in to behind the dash using the hole where the speedo cable goes in (I've changed mine to a TD5 speedo so had some spare space cable seal). Inside the binnacle it is possible to feed the pipe along the underside of the dash to the ash tray area. I added a 90 degree coupler to the back of the gauge (facing down) and then another from the vertical pipe to the horizontal pipe under the dash. A bit fiddly but less chance of chafing. I also put in a electrical connector that all the gauges went through (oil, voltage & temp) so that I could disconnect the whole pod if required
 
I've got a 4 gauge Mud pod in the same area. Getting the boost pipe to the gauge is a bit of a bugger, I put a 'T in the line to the FIP (just next to the throttle cable) then routed it in to behind the dash using the hole where the speedo cable goes in (I've changed mine to a TD5 speedo so had some spare space cable seal). Inside the binnacle it is possible to feed the pipe along the underside of the dash to the ash tray area. I added a 90 degree coupler to the back of the gauge (facing down) and then another from the vertical pipe to the horizontal pipe under the dash. A bit fiddly but less chance of chafing. I also put in a electrical connector that all the gauges went through (oil, voltage & temp) so that I could disconnect the whole pod if required
I'm tapping mine in to the back of the inlet manifold. Thanks for the tips though, Kwakerman. I like the idea of the detachable electrical connection, I'll defo do that. :)
 
Sounds like things are bedding in nicely. I wouldn't worry about the smoke. The critical thing is that it passes the MOT smoke test, and it is clear that yours has, with plenty of room to spare. So even if it gets a little smokier over the next few years it will be a long time 'til it fails.
 

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