Right up against the pulley wheel then. Cheers, neilly, that's great.
It's been raining here, but just stopped. Very over cast though
Just painting the heat shield off the back of the alternator and then I'll chance the rain outside.
It's been raining here, but just stopped. Very over cast though
Just painting the heat shield off the back of the alternator and then I'll chance the rain outside.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
it has 8 6 inside flywheel housing 2 at the topI'm looking through the manuals here, but if anyone knows this. The clutch case to block has 5 fixings. 4 bolts and a stud. Anyone know what position the stud goes or how I would know?
Well, that's been a long day. Just got in and washed my hands. Tidied up in the dark as it's 9.50pm
Was raining first thing so started painting the alternator heat shield and prepping the flinger with wire wheel, wash, degrease and Fertan.
rain stopped so got outside and swapped the engine on to the crane and off the stand.
Packed the spigot bush with grease,
slid the clutch alignment tool in and whacked it with a hammer several times. Nothing happened
Decided to take a hacksaw to it and carefully cut a couple of grooves in.
Tried not to quite go through and then tapped the bit between the saw cuts out with a narrow screwdriver.
That scratch is nowhere near as bad as it looks, just a little shiny that's all.
I then tapped in the new bush which had been soaking in oil. Used a socket of the same diameter, though I got it started with the clutch alignment tool.
Knocked in it by a mm or two as that's how the previous one was.
Plugged the spigot bush with some paper, then used some 1200 abrasive paper/brake cleaner to clean the gasket faces of the block and flywheel drive plate.
Cleaned the surface of the seal surface with brake cleaner for ages. The instructions for the new rear crank oil seal talk about it being very clean, not touched by fingers and not smeared with oil!
Slid the new seal with RTV on the back of it. Used the bolts to pull it on and over the plastic sleeve. Seems to be a very tight fit on the seal surface.
Put some thread lock on the bolts and torques them up.
Next I put RTV on the clutch housing.
When I offered it up I decided it would have been better to put the RTV on the block, so I put some on there too.
Slid it on the two dowels and bolted it down.
The flywheel bolt had a lot of set thread lock on them and it took ages to pick it out with a stanley blade.
Cleaned the bolts up with brake cleaner and cleaned the flywheel well and truely too.
Little bit of oil on the clutch alignment tool I got off @greyhair and located the clutch. I should have taken a picture of the clutch surface of the flywheel, but it was remarkable clean.
Forgot to say that tightening the flywheel bolts to 146N.m was tricky
Used the old timing belt trick again, this time I put it around the leg of the crane.
It took three people standing on the leg of the crane to stop it turning enough for me to get the torque needed.
Cleaned the new clutch cover plate with brake cleaner and bolted it down.
Had to use grips to turn the alignment tool out. Wasn't too tight, just a little more than hand.
Turned my attention to the bell housing and replacing the clutch fork and release bearing and saw this in the darkness...........................
It took ages to clean it out. From about half way up the sides I could use a wire brush as it was filthy, but dry.
A lot of blue roll and brake cleaner later. AND a lot of time.
Fitted the new HD clutch fork and release bearing getting the little clip in to hold the bearing and fork together. Lubed the pivot points with molybdenum grease and the slipper pads with copper grease. Cleaned the release bearing shaft with brake cleaner and applied a smear of grease. All together.
I'm just locating the plastic clip, which is fitted on the bottom on mine.
Then I was ready to push the engine in to the engine bay.
Had the Mrs, one of my sons and a mate from down the street helping to gently waggle the engine in. Moving the trolley jack which was supporting the gear box right to the front of the box and jacking it up a bit helped a lot. I was very conscious of being careful so as not to damage the spigot bush as I had damaged the old one a bit taking the engine out.
Rocked the Landy a bit to help locate the gear box shaft in to the clutch plate as we waggled the bell housing studs in to their holes. Eventually got it in.
Refitted the engine mounts and that was it. Tidied up and put the bonnet back on.
Can't believe it back in after all this time.
Was raining first thing so started painting the alternator heat shield and prepping the flinger with wire wheel, wash, degrease and Fertan.
rain stopped so got outside and swapped the engine on to the crane and off the stand.
Packed the spigot bush with grease,
slid the clutch alignment tool in and whacked it with a hammer several times. Nothing happened
Decided to take a hacksaw to it and carefully cut a couple of grooves in.
Tried not to quite go through and then tapped the bit between the saw cuts out with a narrow screwdriver.
That scratch is nowhere near as bad as it looks, just a little shiny that's all.
I then tapped in the new bush which had been soaking in oil. Used a socket of the same diameter, though I got it started with the clutch alignment tool.
Knocked in it by a mm or two as that's how the previous one was.
Plugged the spigot bush with some paper, then used some 1200 abrasive paper/brake cleaner to clean the gasket faces of the block and flywheel drive plate.
Cleaned the surface of the seal surface with brake cleaner for ages. The instructions for the new rear crank oil seal talk about it being very clean, not touched by fingers and not smeared with oil!
Slid the new seal with RTV on the back of it. Used the bolts to pull it on and over the plastic sleeve. Seems to be a very tight fit on the seal surface.
Put some thread lock on the bolts and torques them up.
Next I put RTV on the clutch housing.
When I offered it up I decided it would have been better to put the RTV on the block, so I put some on there too.
Slid it on the two dowels and bolted it down.
The flywheel bolt had a lot of set thread lock on them and it took ages to pick it out with a stanley blade.
Cleaned the bolts up with brake cleaner and cleaned the flywheel well and truely too.
Little bit of oil on the clutch alignment tool I got off @greyhair and located the clutch. I should have taken a picture of the clutch surface of the flywheel, but it was remarkable clean.
Forgot to say that tightening the flywheel bolts to 146N.m was tricky
Used the old timing belt trick again, this time I put it around the leg of the crane.
It took three people standing on the leg of the crane to stop it turning enough for me to get the torque needed.
Cleaned the new clutch cover plate with brake cleaner and bolted it down.
Turned my attention to the bell housing and replacing the clutch fork and release bearing and saw this in the darkness...........................
It took ages to clean it out. From about half way up the sides I could use a wire brush as it was filthy, but dry.
A lot of blue roll and brake cleaner later. AND a lot of time.
Fitted the new HD clutch fork and release bearing getting the little clip in to hold the bearing and fork together. Lubed the pivot points with molybdenum grease and the slipper pads with copper grease. Cleaned the release bearing shaft with brake cleaner and applied a smear of grease. All together.
Then I was ready to push the engine in to the engine bay.
Had the Mrs, one of my sons and a mate from down the street helping to gently waggle the engine in. Moving the trolley jack which was supporting the gear box right to the front of the box and jacking it up a bit helped a lot. I was very conscious of being careful so as not to damage the spigot bush as I had damaged the old one a bit taking the engine out.
Rocked the Landy a bit to help locate the gear box shaft in to the clutch plate as we waggled the bell housing studs in to their holes. Eventually got it in.
Refitted the engine mounts and that was it. Tidied up and put the bonnet back on.
Can't believe it back in after all this time.
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Yes, bolting on as much as poss has been said/advised. I was very mindful of that, but decided to go for it in that state. I reckon I can get the rest on without too much hassle.Just bolt on whatever you can while it's out. Access is so much easier, timing belt included.
Woops! My bad! Seems like the job's done! Bravo
The builds not finished yet! Cheers, reiny.
Cheers, Saint. I'm really pleased with the colour. It's a nice shade of red
(Ferrari red, apparently )Fingers crossed I've done a decent job so far, but it's not finished. I'd like to think I might get to start it up next weekend. In the back of your mind there's always the fear of it operating like a bag of hammers. If it starts, sounds good and pulls a little better than it did before I'll be a happy man.
Cheers, neilly. Nearly there!
Ha, ha yes the bonnet is back on. Maybe I should get a clear plastic one, cheers raywin
There has been a dog involved!
He loved watching. If I went to the garage to get something he would follow me there and back. Son's girlfriend's dog, not mine.
neilly
Well-Known Member
We believe you......... LOL.
I am sure you know this, BUT,
Would be nice to see it running this weekend , but do not make the mistake of rushing the last bits, timing done rotating engine by hand etc...., the work you have put in so far is not worth the last bit being rushed and a silly mistake being made.
Cheers
The dog has stayed with a few times now and he is tremendous. He's got a great character and I've got an apprentice whenever he's here.
You're absolutely right and that's a very timely reality check, because I was getting carried away! It is exciting though
raywin
Well-Known Member
Wise words, it's too easy to start rushing when the finish line is in site, measure twice cut once, I often pull back have a cuppa and go through in my head what's been done and what is left, I have still done daft tricks though.
Yep, that's it. After such an investment in time, money, effort and emotion when you see the finish line...................mistakes are made
It's an easy trap to fall in to.
I've been looking on the net for different running in oils, thinking I'll find one I like the look of and see if my nearest motor factors can get it.
This has led to the inevitable reading of various opinions on the matter. I know we've already been through this a bit, but I'm finding that current thinking is use standard, recommended oil and work the engine hard! The opposite to previous thinking such as take it easy for the first 500 to 1000 miles.
Here's an article showing this thinking. LINKY
This has led to the inevitable reading of various opinions on the matter. I know we've already been through this a bit, but I'm finding that current thinking is use standard, recommended oil and work the engine hard!
The opposite to previous thinking such as take it easy for the first 500 to 1000 miles.Here's an article showing this thinking. LINKY
raywin
Well-Known Member
It's a bit of a mine field with so many opinions, modern engines are a long way from their ancestors, and modern oils are too. Quite honestly I think you should have a think about it then make your mind up which way to go and don't look back, you can drive yourself mad wondering if it would have been better to do it another way.
You have done the work carefully and not cut corners, so it should be fine, I think about modern Diesel engines like my own it has done 120K now and still runs pretty well, yours should be good for a big lump of mileage now.
You have done the work carefully and not cut corners, so it should be fine, I think about modern Diesel engines like my own it has done 120K now and still runs pretty well, yours should be good for a big lump of mileage now.
