Never looked at one before, James :eek: :oops: :rolleyes: :)
I was looking at this, James. It's from the Kolben Schmidt installation instructions HERE Maybe that diagram is an over exaggeration for demo purposes. I was looking out for that wire end and expecting it to be big enough to be visible. My eyes are dim and my knees are knackered though!
Oil Ring.jpg
 
I was looking at this, James. It's from the Kolben Schmidt installation instructions HERE Maybe that diagram is an over exaggeration for demo purposes. I was looking out for that wire end and expecting it to be big enough to be visible. My eyes are dim and my knees are knackered though!
View attachment 121652
yours are spiral expander not hook type and not the 3 part
 
yours are spiral expander not hook type and not the 3 part
The middle set of drawings are the spiral expander type, James. I was expecting mine to be like the drawing on the right with the number 2 pointing to the hook.
 
The middle set of drawings are the spiral expander type, James. I was expecting mine to be like the drawing on the right with the number 2 pointing to the hook.
if you did have a hook you have to ensure it pokes through a oil way slot,otherwise the ring would be pushed out to far and break at that point,if you pull on your spring it should just slide apart
 
if you did have a hook you have to ensure it pokes through a oil way slot,otherwise the ring would be pushed out to far and break at that point,if you pull on your spring it should just slide apart
Due to a lack of experience tinkering with these things and not wanting to ruin the new spring I'll not be pulling on it :eek: :)
I will investigate and learn from the old ones though, James. They are currently lying, set out in order, in the garage.
 
Nice touch having Landyzone on the computer screen in the background too.
Yeah, went to get a piston to take a picture there and then during the discussion with JM.
Had to go out with family today, so just had a few hours this morning.
Fitted the new front camshaft bearing this morning. It's been in the freezer for days. Tapped in reasonably easily. Cleaned all of the bearing faces and then lubed them up with assembly lube. Slid the cam in and it was a nice smooth snug fit as it slid through the new bearing. The last journal, the one that will run in it, was tighter. I don't think it will be too tight. I know you can ream them, but I thought I was on to a winner when the first three journals went through ok.
IMG_6049.JPG

All I had time left to do was use a razor blade to take off any paint that had crept over on to the head and the sump flange, then cleaned the areas with brake cleaner. Took that bit of gasket off too. :)

New Q&H water pump, rear crank seal and oil pressure spring arriving from Turner's tomorrow.
Hopefully, get the crank and pistons in tomorrow.
 
Just reading through the 300Tdi overhaul manual again about the oil pump. It says clean all traces of sealant from the pump cover and on re-assembly apply a bead of sealant to the outer edge of the cover. My cover had no sealant on it when I removed it o_O Actually, when I was reading about the oil pump the other night I read a thread by someone who found the same when they took their pump cover off?
 
Just reading through the 300Tdi overhaul manual again about the oil pump. It says clean all traces of sealant from the pump cover and on re-assembly apply a bead of sealant to the outer edge of the cover. My cover had no sealant on it when I removed it o_O Actually, when I was reading about the oil pump the other night I read a thread by someone who found the same when they took their pump cover off?
Take care with any sealant less is more.
I have seen so many people put a great big bead of silicon on the surface it then puts big slugs of silicone inside where you don't want it
Best is something like the loctite ones which remains liquid until the loose contact with the air and any surplus is washed out harmlessly by the oil
Again I have some I could post to you but not until the weekend.
 
On a roll now just wait until you get that bottom end in and con rod piston assemblies.
All cleaning done now, excepts the old RTV to take off the sump. I've cleaned the sump, degreased it and applied Firtan to the outer surface. It's ready to paint. Apart from that it's all reassembly work now. This is going to sound daft, but I am feeling a bit apprehensive about it.

Looking good.

Please Sir, Can we have some more..............??....................Picccies, we like piccies....

Cheers

I've taken quite a few pictures, but didn't think folk would want to see them :rolleyes:

Take care with any sealant less is more.
I have seen so many people put a great big bead of silicon on the surface it then puts big slugs of silicone inside where you don't want it
Best is something like the loctite ones which remains liquid until the loose contact with the air and any surplus is washed out harmlessly by the oil
Again I have some I could post to you but not until the weekend.
Cheers, raywin, that's very kind. The RTV I've got has a squeeze trigger and you can adjust the nozzle from fine to thicker application. :cool: Mind you, it just came like that, I didn't buy it like that especially :oops: :)
Thanks for the tip though, cos these are the sort of things I worry about cocking up. To spoil a tricky job with a simple mistake is a worst nightmare. I've even Youtubed applying RTV. This bead, components lightly nipped up, left an hour, tightened to settings. About right?
 
That's a method I always prefer.
clean immediatly before then apply a very thin bead ring around all bolt holes to seal them off nip up leave for an hour or two then tighten up fully
 
That's a method I always prefer.
clean immediatly before then apply a very thin bead ring around all bolt holes to seal them off nip up leave for an hour or two then tighten up fully
Champion, pleased you do the same. I meant to say 'thin bead' not 'this bead'.
 
Are there any issues taking this nozzle out? Meant to ask this before I put the cam back in, though I can easily ease it out to get access.
Was thinking I should be pushing something fine through it or would a squirt of brake cleaner do?
IMG_6052.JPG
 
All cleaning done now, excepts the old RTV to take off the sump. I've cleaned the sump, degreased it and applied Firtan to the outer surface. It's ready to paint. Apart from that it's all reassembly work now. This is going to sound daft, but I am feeling a bit apprehensive about it.



I've taken quite a few pictures, but didn't think folk would want to see them :rolleyes:


Cheers, raywin, that's very kind. The RTV I've got has a squeeze trigger and you can adjust the nozzle from fine to thicker application. :cool: Mind you, it just came like that, I didn't buy it like that especially :oops: :)
Thanks for the tip though, cos these are the sort of things I worry about cocking up. To spoil a tricky job with a simple mistake is a worst nightmare. I've even Youtubed applying RTV. This bead, components lightly nipped up, left an hour, tightened to settings. About right?

Every one likes pictures. It enables those of us that can't read to enjoy the forum and pretend that we can, in reality, reed:D
 
Anyone any thoughts about the lack of sealant on my oil pump cover?
Makes me wonder about using it on reassembly, though overhaul manual says to seal it.
 

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