Spent most of today cleaning stuff again, it's VERY time consuming.
Started on the block with the wire wheels again. Cleaned it down with brake cleaner a few times then, rather than paint it, I decided to Fertan it. There were a few little nook and crannies I couldn't get right in to so thought some rust treatment wouldn't harm, other that needing over night to work. Red paint on block tomorrow.
Carefully wire wheeled the head. And further degreased it.
IMG_6024.JPG

Looks good in real life.
Cleaned down the injector and heater plug holes too.
Cleaned and polished the rocker cover.
IMG_6025.JPG

That look better than in the picture too :(
Gave all the other casings a going over with a wire wheel, not too harshly though.
Cleaned things like the injector clamps and nuts.
Took the water pump off as have decided to get a new one. This one has no play what so ever, but is a little stiff to turn. Don't know if they are supposed to be?
IMG_6026.JPG

Of course the gasket stuck to the main casing and was a swine to get off.
The Mrs picked up the Lucas assembly lube from Newcastle, but combined it with a trip to the airport to drop off one of our lads. This meant she's not long back so further head assembly will also wait until tomorrow.
Time for a Guinness! ;)
 
Cleaning is very time consuming, but just think how brilliant it's going to look when it all comes back together.
 
Cleaning is very time consuming, but just think how brilliant it's going to look when it all comes back together.
It's a right pain but, as you say, it'll be worth it when it's lifted back in :)
It would be great to have a hot wash/degreaser, media blaster etc. Would narf speed things up and create a much better job. I can see why Aaron Morris talks about these things with the amount of rebuilds he does. :)

BTW, get a pack of 100 razor blades and use those for scraping gasket surfaces, throw them as soon as they start to catch.
I bought a pack of ten and realised very quickly about the scratching. Any used on steel or cast don't get used on the alloy. New ones used regularly. Still got one or two left! :)
 
It's a right pain but, as you say, it'll be worth it when it's lifted back in :)
It would be great to have a hot wash/degreaser, media blaster etc. Would narf speed things up and create a much better job. I can see why Aaron Morris talks about these things with the amount of rebuilds he does. :)


I bought a pack of ten and realised very quickly about the scratching. Any used on steel or cast don't get used on the alloy. New ones used regularly. Still got one or two left! :)
I use one of these folding safety scrappers.....got it from Homebase iirc....

http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/kincrome-folding-safety-scraper-388471

388471_R_Z001
 
Took the water pump off as have decided to get a new one. This one has no play what so ever, but is a little stiff to turn. Don't know if they are supposed to be?

IME, they are a bit.... but its the seal which makes them so, and it should be possible to feel the seal :)eek:) grabbing hold of the shaft :confused:o_O - for once I wasn't trying to find some innuendo :rolleyes: - can often hear the seal too ( this is getting worse ;) )

tell you what, just fit a new one.... saves me trying to explain stuff in the weird way my brain "works" :D:D:D
 
IME, they are a bit.... but its the seal which makes them so, and it should be possible to feel the seal :)eek:) grabbing hold of the shaft :confused:o_O - for once I wasn't trying to find some innuendo :rolleyes: - can often hear the seal too ( this is getting worse ;) )

tell you what, just fit a new one.... saves me trying to explain stuff in the weird way my brain "works" :D:D:D
Ha, ha it's exactly as you describe. It's probably still got a canny bit of life left in it. As far as I know it's been on for 180K, though! It's a metal blade one, I've read that a lot of the new ones have plastic blades.
 
Ha, ha it's exactly as you describe. It's probably still got a canny bit of life left in it. As far as I know it's been on for 180K, though! It's a metal blade one, I've read that a lot of the new ones have plastic blades.

You could keep it as a spare if the new one lets its smoke out. Or if you get landed with a plastic POS - then just re-fit the old one and send the new one back.

Its probably got years of life left in it - I reckon the 300Tdi is about the best non electronic engine LR ever made...:)
 
You could keep it as a spare if the new one lets its smoke out. Or if you get landed with a plastic POS - then just re-fit the old one and send the new one back.

Its probably got years of life left in it - I reckon the 300Tdi is about the best non electronic engine LR ever made...:)
Good idea, I'll keep it as an emergency spare.

Yeah, mine was a good engine until it went pop :) The injector fault causing the piston top to melt is down to me. Should have had the injectors serviced :rolleyes:
No idea why the rings snapped in No1 Just very unlucky I guess.
 
Started the head assembly.
Cleaned the springs and bits and bobs
IMG_6029.JPG

Cleaned the valves, one at a time and lubed them.
IMG_6028.JPG

Lubed the seals and pushed them on, forgot the spring seats first time around :rolleyes:
IMG_6031.JPG

Lubed spring tops and bottoms, cotters and got them fitted.
IMG_6032.JPG


Chucking it down with rain now :(
Washed the engine down first thing to get the Firtan residue off
IMG_6027.JPG

Hopefully paint it this afternoon.
 
This when you start to feel the benefit of all the work, seeing it come together and looking so good makes it worthwhile.
 
I've put the electric fan heater on in the garage, playing on the block to dry it out. Too dark in there to paint, so hopefully the rain stops and a bit of sun comes out this afternoon. :)
 
This is where compressed air comes in handy you can dry the surface in minutes, but I expect you don't need any more expense.
Put the paint somewhere warm until you use it, goes on better.
Weather is drizzly rain here but brightening up a bit, Yorkshire and Warwickshire have just gone off when Yorkshire were right into their ribs,
 
Raise the head but dont block the valves....give them a sharp but light-ish tap on top of the stem.....this seats the collets a bit.....

The last thing you want is a collet jumping off on first start.
 
This is where compressed air comes in handy you can dry the surface in minutes, but I expect you don't need any more expense.
Put the paint somewhere warm until you use it, goes on better.
Weather is drizzly rain here but brightening up a bit, Yorkshire and Warwickshire have just gone off when Yorkshire were right into their ribs,
I've got a compressor, will be blasting out all the oil and water ways. Never thought of using it to dry it off:)
 

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