To save myself scanning dusty textbooks, I grabbed this from Google.

cam-event_graph2.jpg


It's partly to do with using the inlet gas to blow out burnt stuff, partly to do with keeping the gases moving as much as poss and partly because the valves aren't actually very far open at TDC.
 
To save myself scanning dusty textbooks, I grabbed this from Google.

cam-event_graph2.jpg


It's partly to do with using the inlet gas to blow out burnt stuff, partly to do with keeping the gases moving as much as poss and partly because the valves aren't actually very far open at TDC.

Yeah, that's what I said but with colouring in.
 
Those are definitely the figures from the manual. And you may have to think about the engine a bit more. Even an low tuned engine will start to open valves before tdc, the plan being that the piston will have gone by the time the valve occupies the same space.
Also bare in mind that the cam rotates at half the speed of the crank.
Also it needs to have valve overlap so that gas is scavenged, ie the inlet opens as the exhaust is closing so that fresh charge helps to push spent gas out. This also help to fill the cylinder more efficiently.
As far as I know, no 4 stroke open valves after tdc.

This is a very safe engine and is reasonably conservative timing. If you want to see hairy timing, look at the figures from a zx10 or panigale.
Well - thanks again.

This gives me something else to check.

At the moment I don't think there's enough space to be opening valves before TDC...

...I'll measure it and then I'll know.
 
Oh yeah - I got the timing wheel on order - I'll have to wait until next month for the gucci digital spirit level I guess!
 
If you're keen, put a layer of plastacene (sp?) over the piston. Oil the valve head and turn the motor over. Then cut the stuff and measure the thickness at the indent point.
Never done this on a landrover but on bike engine the clearance could be 1.1-1.5mm without being scary.
You can also use soft solder in the same way to measure the squish but I'm not sure that's applicable on a flat head.
 
If you're keen, put a layer of plastacene (sp?) over the piston. Oil the valve head and turn the motor over. Then cut the stuff and measure the thickness at the indent point.
Never done this on a landrover but on bike engine the clearance could be 1.1-1.5mm without being scary.
You can also use soft solder in the same way to measure the squish but I'm not sure that's applicable on a flat head.
All I plan to do is measure the height of the camlobe with the head off at discrete crankshaft angles - my newly ordered degree wheel will come in handy. If necessary I'll make a second set of measurements once the head and the valve train is fitted but even I can get too carried away with the irrelevant!
 
One final thing to bare in mind then is that cam lift is not the same as valve lift due to the unequal rocker arm length. Don't know specifically on these but it tends to be about 1 to 1.2.
 
One final thing to bare in mind then is that cam lift is not the same as valve lift due to the unequal rocker arm length. Don't know specifically on these but it tends to be about 1 to 1.2.
Oh yeah - I'm aware of that - being a little bit of a sceptic I'm just up for making measurements of the camlobe profile as a function of crankshaft position at the moment. If I'm going to have to do the relationship between piston and valve inference I need to measure the piston height as well and then estimate head gasket squashiness...

...before you know it I've got me self a nice little science project (when I should really be welding my chassis)!
 

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