not an LSE chassis your using is it?
Might be worth getting some lse props anyway lol
If I get time today I'll measure my props and let you know what they are. I'll try and take some pics as well if my son hasn't nicked the batterys for his xbox lol I cant see how you could have got your transfer box too high if you've used the original mounts.
Here are a couple more updates
just a thought m8,i take it originally it was a tdi?have you moved the engine mounts forward (2 in abouts) for the v8.When i fitted mine i used the gearbox mounts as a refferance point, and before i fitted the engine i checked the props.Once these lined up i mated engine to box,cut mounts off and re welded them,sorted.hope this helps.While im on can i use efi dizzy on a carb convertion?(old flapper cant get it restarted HELP PLEASE)
if the engine is post 76 then yes , but you will need to swap the drive gear form the old one.just a thought m8,i take it originally it was a tdi?have you moved the engine mounts forward (2 in abouts) for the v8.When i fitted mine i used the gearbox mounts as a refferance point, and before i fitted the engine i checked the props.Once these lined up i mated engine to box,cut mounts off and re welded them,sorted.hope this helps.While im on can i use efi dizzy on a carb convertion?(old flapper cant get it restarted HELP PLEASE)
At the white multiplug, the big fat brown and orange cable needs a permanent live from battery, no need to fuse it as it is fused at the ECU end of the loom, once for ign, and again for fuel pump. The 2 relays there are IGN (black base) and fuel pump (blue base) The white wire with a grey stripe needs an ign live ,from key, andd is the positive feed for your fuel pump. The only other essential wiring is a -ve input from coil, mark this on disassembly. As you're taking out a diesel, use the wire to the stop solenoid on the diesel pump as your coil +ve. Mark up the oil pressure switch wire, temp sender wire and alternator connections as you remove them from the diesel, you may need to extend /shorten these as neccessary.
I didn't bother with the speed transducer input for the ECU, and although this may mean that I am only running on an 'idle' fuel map, it still kicks arse.
The props I used are both the same, and are Rangerover v8 auto front props.
Didn't realise how long I had been ranting on, but hope this helps. shout up if there's owt I can help with, Dave.
Yeah from the plug that you pulled out of the bulk head from donor car, it's a White plug with about five or six wire going in/out you need the solid brown to per live (batt) and White to ign live and purple to fuel pump this is all you need for it to run. And you will need a switch live to coil if it was a diesel use the fuel cut off wire
or the air bypass tube for the plenum form the throttle body I think, too dark to see now
Does your carb system still all work and how much do you want for it? Connect the wires from that White multi-plug and it will run trust me!