MattMatt
Active Member
It's not installed yet but I know I am missing these two relays. I just need to know what they are so I can replace them
MattMatt
Active Member
Ok for reference I think I have found out the info I need
Apparently the relays used in the 3.9 Lucas 14CUX hotwire loom were BOSCH 12V 30A P/N 0332014113 for which the LR part number is AFU 2913 or AFU 2913L (not sure of difference) These were used as both the main and fuel pump relays and are somewhat "special" so I've ordered some and on their way - happy days
Apparently the relays used in the 3.9 Lucas 14CUX hotwire loom were BOSCH 12V 30A P/N 0332014113 for which the LR part number is AFU 2913 or AFU 2913L (not sure of difference) These were used as both the main and fuel pump relays and are somewhat "special" so I've ordered some and on their way - happy days
adrianpeanuts
New Member
Hi I know this thread has been sitting for a while,but thought I would join up and join in.
I am at moment slowly finishing off a auto conversion I have a v8 110 which is now 4.2 auto.Just waiting for Ashcroft to get new stock of consoles in to finish interior.
A few of the probs I had was the seat box and V8 tunnel getting in the way of the Hi Lo selector ( the hole in tunnel is further forward on a LT85.) got arround this by buying a TD5 seat box and tunnel, handy as I had changed interior to TD5 and had carpet to suit.
I have kept the original transfer and the original speedo , so far works ok.
The exhaust down pipes/y pipe was a modded 4.2 lse item to decat and to get better line under 110, gearbox crossmember was the RR one with end plates modded to suit.
Original props fitted ok as everything fitted into the right mount.
I recored a TD rad and got it made with the V8 inlets and out lets so that I could use the inbuilt oil cooler, on hind sight I should have got both coolers fitted.
ECU is under driver seat in seat box( no fuel tank there) sealed up and nice and dry.
I have wireing diagrams for both hot wire and flapper as I have used both.
I will post some images if anyone is interested. Just let me know what you would like to see.
ps I have for sale a 3.5v8 with LT85 needs clutch and input bearing, v8 seatbox with lids and a v8 tunnel, I have a set of su carbs and a working flapper system that was fitted to her a while ago. 4 branch manifolds and Y pipe.
Ideal for a V8 conversion. Email me with any question.
I am at moment slowly finishing off a auto conversion I have a v8 110 which is now 4.2 auto.Just waiting for Ashcroft to get new stock of consoles in to finish interior.
A few of the probs I had was the seat box and V8 tunnel getting in the way of the Hi Lo selector ( the hole in tunnel is further forward on a LT85.) got arround this by buying a TD5 seat box and tunnel, handy as I had changed interior to TD5 and had carpet to suit.
I have kept the original transfer and the original speedo , so far works ok.
The exhaust down pipes/y pipe was a modded 4.2 lse item to decat and to get better line under 110, gearbox crossmember was the RR one with end plates modded to suit.
Original props fitted ok as everything fitted into the right mount.
I recored a TD rad and got it made with the V8 inlets and out lets so that I could use the inbuilt oil cooler, on hind sight I should have got both coolers fitted.
ECU is under driver seat in seat box( no fuel tank there) sealed up and nice and dry.
I have wireing diagrams for both hot wire and flapper as I have used both.
I will post some images if anyone is interested. Just let me know what you would like to see.
ps I have for sale a 3.5v8 with LT85 needs clutch and input bearing, v8 seatbox with lids and a v8 tunnel, I have a set of su carbs and a working flapper system that was fitted to her a while ago. 4 branch manifolds and Y pipe.
Ideal for a V8 conversion. Email me with any question.
FrankTheTank
New Member
I have 3.5 efi in my 90 with ZF 4 speed auto. wiring loom is defender at the dash through the bulkhead and then just the relavant ecu loom and efi electrics spliced in at this point. rest of the loom as all defender. my ecu is mounted behind passenger seat along with the additional relays for fuel pump and start inhibitor etc. the intank fuel pump is top half 90 low pressure and bottom half rangie high pressure, there is a bolt in the middle that will undo to split each braket in half and you just bolt on the other pump and solder up the wires back to the top: just replaced mine took 10 mins. efi fuel filter fits on chasis next to tank. buy a fse adjustable fuel pressure regulator, well worth it. my bulk head or gearbox tunnel isn't modified at all, was a 2.25 petrol. sorry dont no what props i have but if you know how to tell happy to get underneath and take a look.
sible88
New Member
How much for SS Y pipe mate?
Make me an offer!!
