marjon said:
I asked if there was a relay in the ignition side. To try and find stuff to eliminate.
Response was No. so no need to check relays:)

J
Click to expand...
Lol cheers dude. It sparked a thought my end as my mechanic mate thought I would cause an issue by not having one.
You were checking not a broken relay.
Should I look at a pre made loom and replace the lot or more checks first? I will start it again shortly to do other checks asked but it’s ****ing down at the moment
 
if it starts reliably when cold, i wouldnt point at a loom problem
when it stalls, how hot is the coil?it should be warm, but if its really hot or burns your fingerprints off then its bad
does it stall like turning the key off, or chug and splutter and die?
 
Muddy goose said:
Should I look at a pre made loom and replace the lot or more checks first? I will start it again shortly to do other checks asked but it’s ****ing down at the moment
Click to expand...

I am still of the opinion as @kermit_rr it’s something you can find and as I said you will probably kick yourself:eek:
I wouldn’t rush and blame your wiring completely yet.

Relays are quite a mordern thing in cars( relatively speaking) many “old school “ cars never had them.

J
 
Is the air filter good? Years ago I had a vauxall cresta that did exactly what yours is doing, it turned out to be tight big ends.

Col
 
kermit_rr said:
if it starts reliably when cold, i wouldnt point at a loom problem
when it stalls, how hot is the coil?it should be warm, but if its really hot or burns your fingerprints off then its bad
does it stall like turning the key off, or chug and splutter and die?
Click to expand...
Hello mate
I will check tomorrow now it’s been non stop raining today, by memory it’s like you kinked the fuel pipe kind of stop. Hope the coils not hot a new one and not oil
 
marjon said:
I am still of the opinion as @kermit_rr it’s something you can find and as I said you will probably kick yourself:eek:
I wouldn’t rush and blame your wiring completely yet.

Relays are quite a mordern thing in cars( relatively speaking) many “old school “ cars never had them.

J
Click to expand...
Ok cool simples would be good right now happy to kick myself
 
marjon said:
@Muddy goose

You need to be sure is it somebodies turned off electric and just stops, or it splutters to a stop because of lack of fuel.
Please or we are all chasing different thoughts
J
Click to expand...

And then does it start up straight away or needs cranking for a while as if it needs fuel pumped through...think I already asked but not sure of reply...
 
marjon said:
@Muddy goose

You need to be sure is it somebodies turned off electric and just stops, or it splutters to a stop because of lack of fuel.
Please or we are all chasing different thoughts
J
Click to expand...
Yes I will check today I will ch
Shippers said:
And then does it start up straight away or needs cranking for a while as if it needs fuel pumped through...think I already asked but not sure of reply...
Click to expand...
eck again to see today
 
marjon said:
@Muddy goose

You need to be sure is it somebodies turned off electric and just stops, or it splutters to a stop because of lack of fuel.
Please or we are all chasing different thoughts
J
Click to expand...
Yes I will check today I will ch
Shippers said:
And then does it start up straight away or needs cranking for a while as if it needs fuel pumped through...think I already asked but not sure of reply...
Click to expand...
I will check again to see today and let you know
 
Right. Took a bit to start her today choke as usual and then after a very short while starts to run ruff so choke in runs better then starts to die extra throttle doesn’t help and dies. I repeat this process a few times and as she starts to warm up it improves each time. Today once warm no cutting out after a short period as the day before so I decided to run up up the road to put some load on the engine. Ran really quite well so continued on probably an eighth of a mile then the dreaded power loss foot down gives it a bit more then cutting out no coughing and spluttering. Turned over after seconds had passed restarted to continue home driving ok but not with any load the more I put the throttle down the more she suffered pull into drive ok after slowing down for turning and didn’t die? When she starts to die it’s not quite like switching off electrics because foot to the floor gives a little more so it is like fuel cut off.
Sorry I forgot to take temp of coil as testing all the other temps with the wrapped exhausts. That has worked engine oil temp better and engine bay improvements manifold after test drive only 235 degrees.
Tomorrow I will try again to see any difference and test temp on coil. Also I will take a flat blade with me to check fuel pots on SU’s to make sure fuel in them.
Any other tests let me know
Cheers
 
As I've said previously, once it's warm and off choke, while it's idling, lift the piston each of the carbs in turn slightly, something in the region of 1/32 inch and let us know what happens. There should be a sprung lift pin on the outside of the carb designed for this task. Some carbs don't have it and you'll have to use a screwdriver or similar down the mouth of the carb. Using the pin, there should be some free play before it touches the piston
 
Ok.
I guess we are back to fuel issue by the sounds of it.
Did you actually confirm plugs correct.

J
 
When re furbed carbs did you fit all gaskets and any spacers between carbs and manifold correctly as if not can effect fuel.evaporation...as @marjon sounds like a fuel prob...is the choke working correctly...on mine the p.o. had connected the choke cable to the hand throttle and vice-versa but I did buy it as a non-runner...
 
kermit_rr said:
As I've said previously, once it's warm and off choke, while it's idling, lift the piston each of the carbs in turn slightly, something in the region of 1/32 inch and let us know what happens. There should be a sprung lift pin on the outside of the carb designed for this task. Some carbs don't have it and you'll have to use a screwdriver or similar down the mouth of the carb. Using the pin, there should be some free play before it touches the piston
Click to expand...
Ok I will check today
 
Shippers said:
When re furbed carbs did you fit all gaskets and any spacers between carbs and manifold correctly as if not can effect fuel.evaporation...as @marjon sounds like a fuel prob...is the choke working correctly...on mine the p.o. had connected the choke cable to the hand throttle and vice-versa but I did buy it as a non-runner...
Click to expand...
Hi yes all new gaskets and what come in the kit butterfly etc only thing not changed main needle as looked in good condition. I never saw these run any more than a vid of engine running (I must say though I had to replace everything on rebuild of engine) so perhaps carbs no good I can remember not seeing the metal gasket that has the inner teeth which I’ve seen before when looking on the inter web it said some do some don't so I didn’t worry. The carbs are my last thought of problem area. Well under someone said look at electrics lol
 
Shippers said:
As a thought what's your air filter set-up?
Click to expand...
B5B4E307-ADBA-4305-A049-680B780DFC40.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
TD5 crank no start after overheating
Replies
1
Views
361
tom1979
tom1979
cappers
3.5 hotwire efi won't start - solved, poor connection to coil -ve!
Replies
14
Views
2K
AllanWorms
AllanWorms
R
2000 Thor 4.6 fuel/starting problems
Replies
5
Views
403
richardtamps
R
B
Defender 1986 fuel tank leak
Replies
5
Views
379
miktdish
miktdish
G
2.5 NA won’t start after injection pump swap.
Replies
3
Views
813
al2647
A