Yes my home made wiring loom is not my finest moment! Not colour coded just lots of labels.
Should I look at a pre made harness? It would be cheaper than £1850 worth of new carb setup.
Does anyone know a good loom maker?
Happy to re wire I’ve tried everything else.
 
marjon said:
Can this problem be replicated every time while you are just sat in the garage?
You say it stops like it’s been turned off electrical?
When you restart do you just push your start button again or turn things off/on first?
Any immobiliser (I don’t think so)?
Any wires chaffed?
I can’t think of any sensor on that engine that would stop it running. (Not sure)

If you can make it do it I would be tempted to start running new test wires bypassing stuff, perhaps even with test bulbs, then sit and watch.
Do you have a timing light? Or a clamp lead to check ht.

It just sounds like a teething issue from the rebuild after your first 500 mile shakedown.

Good luck you’ll find it and probably kick yourself:)

J
Click to expand...
Hello mate
Yes
I can all the tests yesterday just on the drive. I normally turn it all off to restart I will try just pushing the button. I can’t test right now to loud for neighbours.
No sensors other than oil and water temp all old school.
 
Just because it's new doesn't mean it works. More so these days!
Black/sooty plugs is either too rich or not sparking properly for whatever reason
Blip the throttle, let the revs stabilise, then lift the SU piston *slightly*, revs should stay about the same or drop slightly. If the revs increase noticeably, then it's too rich
 
Muddy goose said:
Yes my home made wiring loom is not my finest moment! Not colour coded just lots of labels.
Click to expand...

That looks fairly neat.
You should see behind my dash :( after all PO digging and changing stuff. So I would say you are ok.
Nothing wrong with “old school”

J
 
kermit_rr said:
Just because it's new doesn't mean it works. More so these days!
Black/sooty plugs is either too rich or not sparking properly for whatever reason
Blip the throttle, let the revs stabilise, then lift the SU piston *slightly*, revs should stay about the same or drop slightly. If the revs increase noticeably, then it's too rich
Click to expand...
I will start her up at 11am and do the test
Cheers
 
marjon said:
That looks fairly neat.
You should see behind my dash :( after all PO digging and changing stuff. So I would say you are ok.
Nothing wrong with “old school”

J
Click to expand...
Thanks mate if I did it again I would invest in colour coded wires trouble is time you brought all the cable it would work out cheaper to buy a loom
 
kermit_rr said:
That sounds like a whole lot of pain
IMO you won't get better than a twin SU setup once you've got it right
if its electrical issue or fuel supply issue then no amount of carb swapping will help
Click to expand...
It was more on the lines of getting rid of cold starts vapor lock etc and maybe helping with the 12mpg. I wondered if anyone had tried the system on a rover v8
 
12mpg? from a 3.5? that doesn't sound right
i dont know much about e-carbs but i'm under the impression they mostly run in the traditional manner, just a bit on the lean side, with an additional injector in the throttle body, to inject fuel dependant on readings from the O2 sensor.
I can't see that helping much with mpg compared to a properly set up SU
 
kermit_rr said:
12mpg? from a 3.5? that doesn't sound right
i dont know much about e-carbs but i'm under the impression they mostly run in the traditional manner, just a bit on the lean side, with an additional injector in the throttle body, to inject fuel dependant on readings from the O2 sensor.
I can't see that helping much with mpg compared to a properly set up SU
Click to expand...
That’s good to know. I might be a little low on the mpg guess not done a proper test yet after the run in. An LR95 box as well so only four on the floor
 
Do any of you guys know where I could get a wiring loom made from? I did get one made for a kit cobra 15 years ago made up, haven’t got the details anymore. After renewing all the fuelling side of things and the improvements suggested by you guys (relocation of pump) so lots of improvements and now all the spark side of things. I wonder if it is my home made wiring loom as it’s not standard as I haven’t used any relays as such on start up ignition. I can’t get my head round why something electrical can work and then fail and then rework?
 
I don't know who could/would make a custom loom, but if you've replaced the lot yourself and all the connections are good, the wire is of the correct grade for the current, then it should either work or not.
I wish I was closer, it sounds like something really simple that you're overlooking.
 
kermit_rr said:
I don't know who could/would make a custom loom, but if you've replaced the lot yourself and all the connections are good, the wire is of the correct grade for the current, then it should either work or not.
I wish I was closer, it sounds like something really simple that you're overlooking.
Click to expand...
I know it’s so annoying my mechanic mate has come to a close as well and being right down on the south coast near Brighton not so many Landy dudes.
My thinking as well if it’s works it should just work. The relay was mentioned do we know if that could be the reason?
 
"Do any of you guys know where I could get a wiring loom made "

I Use Autosparks on the interweb, they have STD looms and can make to order
 
I asked if there was a relay in the ignition side. To try and find stuff to eliminate.
Response was No. so no need to check relays:)

J
 
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