HT components can be perfectly fine when cool, then start to break down once hot
I think i read the points had been replaced with electronic ignition, so if you're sure the carbs are getting good amounts of fuel, then I'd be looking at the coil, including the 12v side of the wiring
 
Just to get my head round this and re-cap...does it cut out dead or stutter and falter when it stalls...have you checked all the wiring not just connections...I had ballast resister on mine that was fitted by coil went faulty but not needed with elec dizzy but have you checked there's not one in your wiring you havn't seen...
Personally I think carbs are not your problem they are simple and you can adjust while the engine runs and if even unbalanced twin carbs will still allow engine to run a bit rough...but electrical will shut down...if it starts up without cranking straight away when cold then I don't think it's carb related...
 
Also as an after thought not sure if you know each carb supply fuel to 2 cylinders on each bank...but you probably know that...
 
Balancing is very easy to do yourself without buying specialist tools.
It won't cause an engine to stall though, just run really rough
 
marjon said:
That is some nice wrapping:)

Sounds now like an electrical breakdown.
I think your carbs are good, we’ll enough to run and shouldn’t just cut out and restart if they were the problem.(as we have been over the fuel issue:)) SUs are pretty bulletproof if clean and setup even close.

Still can’t get away from “new coil and dis it’s got to be ok” needs a test sorry:eek: and wiring to.
Got anything to swap it with?

J
Click to expand...
Cheers dude wrapping took about four attempts to get it right and wrapped in the right direction.
I have as you know just replaced the whole dizzy side with electronic inc coil etc no ballast anymore, this is my third replacement of dizzy set up. I re wired the whole loom (no I’m no expert so might need checking) so I wonder what it could be on electrical as all new wires and a thicker core in most places not sure what parts to recheck? Remember when I first finished the Landy I ran in the fresh engine for 500 miles with no issues when I got to 700 miles it did the same thing sat on side of road for 5 mins then it would start up again but then break down on shorter and shorter runs on the way back home. It now has become a very short period I will time it today.
 
marjon said:
I think you maybe need to started checking everything again.
As above start with a look at the plugs color, are they correct/good?
Ruff running when cold and hot, fueling/timing/vacuum hoses?
Not being able to stamp on the loud pedal, again fueling/timing.
Vacuum advance? New dizzy and hose looks good in your pics, and same problem with old dizzy.
Coil? Believe you said new so unlikely.

You need to check all the electrical connections are good/clean.

Most off that is really thinking out loud let’s see the plugs:)

J
Click to expand...
The plugs are black soot after cleaning them all but it only sat on drive and 2000rpm so not a run hot enough to clean them.
 
kermit_rr said:
HT components can be perfectly fine when cool, then start to break down once hot
I think i read the points had been replaced with electronic ignition, so if you're sure the carbs are getting good amounts of fuel, then I'd be looking at the coil, including the 12v side of the wiring
Click to expand...
All new ht side and electronic dizzy and matching coil. When she first runs she runs really sweet
 
Shippers said:
Just to get my head round this and re-cap...does it cut out dead or stutter and falter when it stalls...have you checked all the wiring not just connections...I had ballast resister on mine that was fitted by coil went faulty but not needed with elec dizzy but have you checked there's not one in your wiring you havn't seen...
Personally I think carbs are not your problem they are simple and you can adjust while the engine runs and if even unbalanced twin carbs will still allow engine to run a bit rough...but electrical will shut down...if it starts up without cranking straight away when cold then I don't think it's carb related...
Click to expand...
Yes that’s the issue when it’s running it’s lovely I will check again today but I think it’s almost like fuel runs out kind of stop but I will recheck just to make sure but I’m sure it’s getting a shorter cut off if that makes sense
 
marjon said:
Do you have a relay for ignition feed ?

J
Click to expand...
No I didn’t fit any relays as bigger wiring so didn’t think it needed it. Just to recap on wiring.
Battery then cut off switch. Up to feed fuse board. Each component has a fuse. To start engine arming switch to on and then push button start.
I will take photos today
 
I thought a relay was to take smaller wires upto the dash. How will that effect the Landy running? Being a Sparks by trade has not helped me with 12 volt lol
 
44C7FFE6-6B7E-432A-825B-C375391526D6.jpeg
C18F41D5-D9E4-4030-A88B-7AF7C0DDABB2.jpeg
8A268628-AFAF-40F1-B5D4-98CF29AEADAE.jpeg
8A54CFCC-74FD-4602-88A3-F5223A189B74.jpeg
 
Can this problem be replicated every time while you are just sat in the garage?
You say it stops like it’s been turned off electrical?
When you restart do you just push your start button again or turn things off/on first?
Any immobiliser (I don’t think so)?
Any wires chaffed?
I can’t think of any sensor on that engine that would stop it running. (Not sure)

If you can make it do it I would be tempted to start running new test wires bypassing stuff, perhaps even with test bulbs, then sit and watch.
Do you have a timing light? Or a clamp lead to check ht.

It just sounds like a teething issue from the rebuild after your first 500 mile shakedown.

Good luck you’ll find it and probably kick yourself:)

J
 
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