There is a locking tab on the side of the injection pump to lock the pump timing before removing. Set the timing correctly,, undo the bolt remove locking tab and tighten the bolt. You can then remove the belt and pump.
 
I would leave pump on for now , if you rotate crank until all the timing marks line up ,then you can insert the locking tool in pump then release the tensioner wheel to remove belt , then you can unbolt pistons and push them out top of block with wood end of hammer. Then the main caps can be removed

These are the bits I got 6 years ago from turner engineering, but check a few sizes ie crank diameter to ensure std
IMG_3860.png
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I would leave pump on for now , if you rotate crank until all the timing marks line up ,then you can insert the locking tool in pump then release the tensioner wheel to remove belt , then you can unbolt pistons and push them out top of block with wood end of hammer. Then the main caps can be removed

These are the bits I got 6 years ago from turner engineering, but check a few sizes ie crank diameter to ensure stdView attachment 341266View attachment 341267
Ive done it the other way, wished I hade seen this erliar. Anyway I locked the pump in place and took it off with the timing tool so hopefully it will be OK. Got crank and pistons out, end of crank at flywheel end is a bit crusty, not sure what that is, hope it has not damaged it. now for the job I hate to clean everything up. Think Turners prices have gone uo since then, will see what I need then decide where to order from.
 

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Bit worried about the crank at flywheel end wondering if it needs grinding or not or if its to far gone, the rest is OK.
Any Thoughts ?
 

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Bit worried about the crank at flywheel end wondering if it needs grinding or not or if its to far gone, the rest is OK.
Any Thoughts ?
Looks like that has had water in there, if keeping it I would get a machine shop to take a look at it.
Iirc std 200 cranks are not mega money.
 
ERC1181, pls do check that is the correct part number before buying!
Just thinking engineers time plus machining/polishing might come to more than a new one costs.

 
Bit worried about the crank at flywheel end wondering if it needs grinding or not or if its to far gone, the rest is OK.
Any Thoughts ?
Some higher res photos would be better a few MB rather that KB ,but the area where the crank seal runs looks better, I cleaned bearing surfaces with some 1000grit wet and dry and some wd40
Need a mic to measure diameters to check, not sure you can regrind the diesel cranks, not advised on the series
 
Some higher res photos would be better a few MB rather that KB ,but the area where the crank seal runs looks better, I cleaned bearing surfaces with some 1000grit wet and dry and some wd40
Need a mic to measure diameters to check, not sure you can regrind the diesel cranks, not advised on the series
Will try and get better pics,
Something else bugging me again, these pistons are ae a350800 +.020 piston as in pic, after googling them thy are stated as Oversize, Could that mean that they are not the standard ones ? and they have been replaced before at some time ?
 

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Found this might be useful, and you can re grind the tdi crank according to doc
 

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Yes it’s had a rebore. Hopefully won’t need another
Thanks for Link, so could these +.020 pistons be used again with a Hone of the bores, if they clean up OK
Pics of bearing numbers
 

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If the bores are ok and within tolerance of the +20 oversize and pistons not worn or damaged they can be used again but then youlll need to check the end gaps of piston rings in the bores to see if they are in spec if they are use again without honing , if gaps too big they new rings needed and then a hone will be reqd. The 010 will mean the crank has had a 10 thou regrind , what’s other side of bearings look like any copper showing , if crank surfaces look ok they’re probably not worn
 
If the bores are ok and within tolerance of the +20 oversize and pistons not worn or damaged they can be used again but then youlll need to check the end gaps of piston rings in the bores to see if they are in spec if they are use again without honing , if gaps too big they new rings needed and then a hone will be reqd. The 010 will mean the crank has had a 10 thou regrind , what’s other side of bearings look like any copper showing , if crank surfaces look ok they’re probably not worn
Yes copper showing on bearings
 

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