I ended up grinding the bolt heads off, there was about 5mm bolt to get hold of with mole grips and surprisingly they came out easy.How did you remove the damaged timing case bolts in the end?
Ive done it the other way, wished I hade seen this erliar. Anyway I locked the pump in place and took it off with the timing tool so hopefully it will be OK. Got crank and pistons out, end of crank at flywheel end is a bit crusty, not sure what that is, hope it has not damaged it. now for the job I hate to clean everything up. Think Turners prices have gone uo since then, will see what I need then decide where to order from.I would leave pump on for now , if you rotate crank until all the timing marks line up ,then you can insert the locking tool in pump then release the tensioner wheel to remove belt , then you can unbolt pistons and push them out top of block with wood end of hammer. Then the main caps can be removed
These are the bits I got 6 years ago from turner engineering, but check a few sizes ie crank diameter to ensure stdView attachment 341266View attachment 341267
Looks like that has had water in there, if keeping it I would get a machine shop to take a look at it.Bit worried about the crank at flywheel end wondering if it needs grinding or not or if its to far gone, the rest is OK.
Any Thoughts ?
Some higher res photos would be better a few MB rather that KB ,but the area where the crank seal runs looks better, I cleaned bearing surfaces with some 1000grit wet and dry and some wd40Bit worried about the crank at flywheel end wondering if it needs grinding or not or if its to far gone, the rest is OK.
Any Thoughts ?
Will try and get better pics,Some higher res photos would be better a few MB rather that KB ,but the area where the crank seal runs looks better, I cleaned bearing surfaces with some 1000grit wet and dry and some wd40
Need a mic to measure diameters to check, not sure you can regrind the diesel cranks, not advised on the series
Thanks for Link, so could these +.020 pistons be used again with a Hone of the bores, if they clean up OKYes it’s had a rebore. Hopefully won’t need another
Yes copper showing on bearingsIf the bores are ok and within tolerance of the +20 oversize and pistons not worn or damaged they can be used again but then youlll need to check the end gaps of piston rings in the bores to see if they are in spec if they are use again without honing , if gaps too big they new rings needed and then a hone will be reqd. The 010 will mean the crank has had a 10 thou regrind , what’s other side of bearings look like any copper showing , if crank surfaces look ok they’re probably not worn
Yes was going to replace bearings anyway, Funds are low at the moment so hoping to get away with just new rings and maybe honing the bores, but still need to get the crank checked at machine shop.Well they need replacing! Just seen a nice 200tdi crank on eBay decent price
Depending on what price machine shop say for crank might be cheaper getting second hand one, was it one of these 2 here you seen ? first one is dearer but looks the better one.Yes was going to replace bearings anyway, Funds are low at the moment so hoping to get away with just new rings and maybe honing the bores, but still need to get the crank checked at machine shop.