I normally drag the vac out of the house and suck all the **** out of the bolt holes helps stop the bolts from bottoming on the crap before they tighten down :)
 
IamRobbie said:
Took a quick video then put my phone down and it didn't save. It doesn't puff when it first starts, it gets worse the warmer the engine..

I noticed a slight drip from the top rad pipe, not enough to lose around a litre per mile or 2.


Slight white smoke on little throttle but pure black on anything more as shown near the end. This video is after the truck has been on for around a minute only.
Click to expand...

that's not as bad as i expected.

i'd double check it's not just a leaky hose. top water up to the normal level and let it idle. make sure the pipes are a decent pressure and it's not hissing from the exp bottle cap.

look underneath for drips. then when warm, increase the revs by whatever means you want.. stick, winding the adjuster in, etc so the water pump is turning faster.. look underneath again.

keep an eye on the temp gauge, don't let it get into the red.
 
It's alot worse when running and when it's been ran or done a decent up hill run.. It's losing water fast I just dunno where.

Also good point of cornish, I did this with the mrs' hetty
 
This is the snapped bolt. It's right next to a water channel and the bolt that I dont think tightened down as well..


 
If water was going past the bolt that in the photo is snapped, and went into the piston at a slow enough rate to not notice it steam out the exhaust, is there any way that the steam created in the piston could go up the head or any other way to get out of the oil breather...

I know worn rings could let it past but before the hg change it didn't breath at all so I can't see why it would start all of a sudden.
 
I've done as you said trax and taken some vids . I'm just uploading them. I think the radiator is playing a part in losing water as well. Although I can't see any drops of water on the floor from under the landy
 
200 tdi getting warm rad steaming:

200tdi cyclone removed. Truck getting warm.:

200 tdi getting warm but res lid off.:

200tdi lower revs/tick over when warm.:

 
Gonna get the first one I took off pressure tested and skimmed. Then I'll change the gasket again and I'm unsure if I'll drill and heli coil thst number 6 bolt or not. I checked the water tonighr after work and it hadn't really moved from full... Took it a drive tonight for a few miles and got it nice and warm, when I got back and turned it off I could hear slight noise from the bottom pipe of the rad and down near the fuel pump side of the block, top hose was rock hard and so we're the rest. As well as being red hot.. I'll recheck the water tomorrow...
 
I meant to say it's got the same chuffing noise as my NA did when the head was cracked. I also had a warped head after that which ran perfectly after doing the head gasket until the engine was warm, then it would start running like a bag of spanners and losing loads of water.

You can see either steam or exhaust fumes coming out of the expansion tank.
 
The fact that I've put a plastic expansion tank instead of the old smaller metal one won't do anything will it?
 
On a non-related note, have you removed your viscous fan? Couldn't see it in the vids.
 
Yes I didn't install the viscous fan when I put the engine in the other year as the engine sits further back and I didn't have a cowl, I ran without a fan for a year not a single problem, put an electric one on just incase but I don't do much driving in it to be honest. Just a toy that doesn't do a 1000 miles a year.
 
I got the original head back today, pressure tested and skimmed. Guy who did it said there was nothing wrong with it so I'm happy at that. Next is to tackle the headgasket again.... Not had much spare time lately as works gone mad and the overtime is back but luckily I've landed a new job within the same company and I'll soon have my weekends and bankholidays back!
 
Forgot to mention, anything else I need to check when doing the headgasket again? I'll take pics of bores for all to see. Should I be able to feel a lip in the bore or not?
 
Your cylinder head is cracked, ive just replaced mine, and its lovely now.

Symtoms were immense pressure in top hose, water pressurising out the top cap and hoses popping off.

The cause of mine was to much porting and to much boost.

I fitted a landrover stamped head gasket, which i beleive was made by elring.

Graham
 
thanks Graham! As soon as i get a few hours spare to do mine I will report back with pics of how it went!

What is porting?
 
Ok so i whipped the head Off tonight, took a little video and I'm not sure what to look for regarding the cylinder bores.

The gasket came away from the block unattached but then again it's probably done less than 30 miles...

There is water in the pistons which I'm guessing has gone in after I've broke the seal on the head.

 
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