Doing that shows nothing obvious either.

I have tried measuring the valve stem diameter, which I think is low and outside tolerance. However in the process of doing this I have lots faith in my digital callipers as they seem to be wildly inconsistent. So am off to borrow an old fashioned analogue one to chance again.
that would show in excessive sideways movement in the guide its the seat faces
 
that would show in excessive sideways movement in the guide its the seat faces
Having got hold of a proper micrometwer (all be it imperial) all of my valves seem to be under tolerance by about 0.02-0.03mm as long as the Haynes measurement are correct. Is this enough that they will need to be replaced or should I still try lapping them in to see if I get a seal as you suggest above?

0162DB5A-BC9D-4516-BF06-63B8CCA327D6.jpeg
 
Having got hold of a proper micrometwer (all be it imperial) all of my valves seem to be under tolerance by about 0.02-0.03mm as long as the Haynes measurement are correct. Is this enough that they will need to be replaced or should I still try lapping them in to see if I get a seal as you suggest above?

View attachment 164156
all old valves will have wear as will guides what play is there when fitted is there a clear contact mark 360, to cause blow by valve would have had to been bent during piston contact
 
Having got hold of a proper micrometwer (all be it imperial) all of my valves seem to be under tolerance by about 0.02-0.03mm as long as the Haynes measurement are correct. Is this enough that they will need to be replaced or should I still try lapping them in to see if I get a seal as you suggest above?

View attachment 164156

Personally, if they are out of spec, then they are scrap. The specs are for a reason and I would replace. I don’t know if it’s the cause of your problem, but it can’t be helping.
 
all old valves will have wear as will guides what play is there when fitted is there a clear contact mark 360, to cause blow by valve would have had to been bent during piston contact
There is a clear contact mark currently, but obviously that is the old one. I am still awaiting my valve grinding kit which should have been delivered today and did not arrive, so will have to wait before I can lap them in. I will then see if there still is a clear contact mark all the way around.

Personally, if they are out of spec, then they are scrap. The specs are for a reason and I would replace. I don’t know if it’s the cause of your problem, but it can’t be helping.
I need to remeasure them after checking the micrometer is zeroed correctly as have just been told it probably hasn't been used for 30 years! So will check if it properly zeroed and adjust the readings if not before deciding if they are truly out of tolerance.
 
There is a clear contact mark currently, but obviously that is the old one. I am still awaiting my valve grinding kit which should have been delivered today and did not arrive, so will have to wait before I can lap them in. I will then see if there still is a clear contact mark all the way around.


I need to remeasure them after checking the micrometer is zeroed correctly as have just been told it probably hasn't been used for 30 years! So will check if it properly zeroed and adjust the readings if not before deciding if they are truly out of tolerance.
bung your valves back in and fill ports with diesel
 
bung your valves back in and fill ports with diesel
Refit valves fully, head upside down, fill with diesel and see which ones still have diesel in tomorrow morning? That will narrow down the cylinders which are a problem correct?
 
I need to remeasure them after checking the micrometer is zeroed correctly as have just been told it probably hasn't been used for 30 years! So will check if it properly zeroed and adjust the readings if not before deciding if they are truly out of tolerance.

Micrometer was 10thou out so the measurements are right at the bottom end of tolerance.
Have filled valves with diesel. And will see what it looks like tomorrow.
image.jpg
 
Refit valves fully, head upside down, fill with diesel and see which ones still have diesel in tomorrow morning? That will narrow down the cylinders which are a problem correct?
ports up valves on the side, if any leak it will **** out
 
ports up valves on the side, if any leak it will **** out
Well this is 24hour later. One still has fuel in but not the full amount, one is wet the others are completely empty:

07DF60C2-1AB4-4197-BAC0-2A3BCF588142.jpeg

Does that mean I need new valves or does that mean I just need to lap them in again to get a good seal?
 
Well this is 24hour later. One still has fuel in but not the full amount, one is wet the others are completely empty:

View attachment 164197

Does that mean I need new valves or does that mean I just need to lap them in again to get a good seal?
its a new test to me and one ive never done or heard of, if you think how fast the valve opens and shuts there has to be a bad match between valve and seat to cause an issue ie bent or burnt through, try it on its side if it pours out as you fill it then theres an issue, seeping out not so but obviously id lap them in
 
its a new test to me and one ive never done or heard of, if you think how fast the valve opens and shuts there has to be a bad match between valve and seat to cause an issue ie bent or burnt through, try it on its side if it pours out as you fill it then theres an issue, seeping out not so but obviously id lap them in
Will do. Will get some more fuel to try the other way.
 
bung your valves back in and fill ports with diesel
Have now carried out this test. None of them showed signs of pouring out straight away. A few of them trickled very slowly. I then lapped in all the valves and re tested and it had improved but a couple still show a trickle.
Am I expecting a perfect seal or just not pouring out?
 
Have now carried out this test. None of them showed signs of pouring out straight away. A few of them trickled very slowly. I then lapped in all the valves and re tested and it had improved but a couple still show a trickle.
Am I expecting a perfect seal or just not pouring out?
it doesnt sound like they were such an issue,whilst its off you may aswell lap them in well
 
it doesnt sound like they were such an issue,whilst its off you may aswell lap them in well
Great. Thanks for that. I will give them a good lapping in and then refit the head and hope it will run.
Is there anything to be aware of when when refitting (other than torquing sequence) or is it as straightforward as it seems?
 
For the head bolts are these the correct part numbers? It is about half the price to order them individually rather than as a set!


4x ETC8808
10x ETC8809
4x ETC8810
 
Well last night I finally got got the time to put everything back together and get the engine running again. A quick test drive yesterday and a drive into work this morning and everything seems to be fine.

I am still unconvinced the timing belt is running completely true on the tensioner, but could not see any issues with the casing or the tensioner. I will check it in about 1k miles and see if there are any problems and investigate further if there are.

I would like to say a huge thank you to @jamesmartin and @Flossie, as well as everybody else who has contributed to this thread and helped me get the engine back up and running.
 

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