dag019
Well-Known Member
I haven't but a friend does so am going to collect that this evening.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Good advice.
He is.
They can get damaged when valves contact the pistons.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
A magnetised screw driver is useful for picking the collets out and a blob of grease on the screw driver/collet to get them back in.
dag019
Well-Known Member
I thought so, he had mentioned them before, and I did inspect them with a torch before I removed the head, they were on the list to inspect again now I have better access to them.
Yes I have watched many youtube vids in the last couple of days on how to remove them and how really you need either tiny child hands or another trick (as you mentioned) to be successful.
flat
Well-Known Member
Also avoid dropping them into a dirty garage floor never to be seen again. Tbh the ‘clean’ rebuild is best done on a clean sheet at the dining room table with all the bits laid out in order lol.
With a cup of tea and some biscuits.
Surprisingly enjoyable process.
EDIT: don’t get crumbs in the head.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Starts with cylinder 1 working front to rear:
again apologies for the poor photos, it is difficult to get phone to focus in the dark, but they all seem to look ok to me.
dag019
Well-Known Member
That sounds like a guaranteed way to end up in the spar room! Same as everyone who suggests the best way to clean it is to put it in the dishwasher!
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
do to me
flat
Well-Known Member
you have to time stuff like this when you know coast is clear for a few hours!!
dag019
Well-Known Member
Good. That is one less thing to replace and one less job to do.
I picked up valve spring compressor this evening. So tomorrow will remove the valves and inspect them. If there is a tell tale of bypass on the valve seat as you mentioned before what is the next course of action. Is it regrinding the valve? Or is it replacing the valve and lapping a new one in?
dag019
Well-Known Member
If that is the case how will I tell if the valves are not sealing correctly due to damage? Would it just be a careful inspection of the valve and the valve seat for impact marks?
I know that no1 intake valve is not sealing so that will be the first one I will remove and inspect. Hopefully there will be something obvious.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
A valve is perfectly straight, spotting a damaged one should be easy but slight damage may be a little harder to spot. Mount it in a Chuck and spin it, any wobble from true should be visible.A more precise way would be using a dti.
Try rotating the valve in the head by hand on the stem whilst watching the valve head for movement other than perfectly smooth and flat.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Cheers for that, confirms it is a basic as that to check. I was going to pillar drill mount them to clean them so should be easy to tell if they are not true in that case.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Valves are now out.
Annoyingly neither the pillar drill or my hand drill are accurate enough and anything put into them has a slight wobble. Having gone through every valve none seem any worse than the others.
Spinning them in the valve seat does not appear to show any signs or being bent either. Any other suggestions?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Any sooty blow marks on the valves or seats on the head?
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Try rolling the valve stem on a flat surface with the head overlapping the edge, you should see any wobble on the valve head
dag019
Well-Known Member
Doing that shows nothing obvious either.
I have tried measuring the valve stem diameter, which I think is low and outside tolerance. However in the process of doing this I have lots faith in my digital callipers as they seem to be wildly inconsistent. So am off to borrow an old fashioned analogue one to chance again.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
buy new and lap in you cant repair a damaged one
