you havent read my post then,
just watch valves open and close fully in turn by turning engine by hand
I did that when I first replaced the push rods and the again as I set the valve clearances. They all open and close as I would expect. What should I be looking for?
 
that would suggest they are ok
Then that brings me back to why am I getting chuffing “exhaust” fumes coming out of the intake manifold.
If to check them all I need to do it remove the rocker shaft and put a straight edge along themI will do that now.
 
Then that brings me back to why am I getting chuffing “exhaust” fumes coming out of the intake manifold.
If to check them all I need to do it remove the rocker shaft and put a straight edge along themI will do that now.
id compression test it,have you had head off and are the threads above the rocker adjuster equal
 
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id compression test it,have you had head off and are the threads above the rocker adjuster equal

I have not had the head off. Was trying to avaoid that. Have just removed the rocker shaft and the valves all line up on a straight edge both with and without the valve caps fitted.
What do you mean by the threads on the rocker adjuster? Is that the lock screws for adjusts the tappets? If so yes they are all equal.

I am trying to upload a video of what happens when I turn it over. But it seems iPhone does not have the correct file extension to upload.
 
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video now uploaded, you can see what I am assuming is unburnt fuel coming out the intake. Is there anything else I can do without taking the head off, as to pressure test @Kwakerman suggested the timing needs to be set up correctly.
 
video now uploaded, you can see what I am assuming is unburnt fuel coming out the intake. Is there anything else I can do without taking the head off, as to pressure test @Kwakerman suggested the timing needs to be set up correctly.
says video unavailable,how did you set tappets
 
video now uploaded, you can see what I am assuming is unburnt fuel coming out the intake. Is there anything else I can do without taking the head off, as to pressure test @Kwakerman suggested the timing needs to be set up correctly.
Just to clarify, what I said was that the timing needs to be correct for a compression test to work properly (on any engine) otherwise the valves would open / close at the wrong time so you would get an incorrect reading. Also said that timing looks ok from your pictures. One other possible option may be a leak down test, that is carried out at tdc on compression stroke so if you have clearance on both rockers at tdc and if the leak rate is enormous and you can feel air coming out the intake you know a valve is open or isn't sealing, however you would still need to determine why
 
As JM says it may be worth looking at the cam key, the chuff sound sounds like a positive opening of a valve rather than air leaking past a stuck open valve if you get my drift
 
Another thing to try is turning the crank to tdc making sure the crank woodruff key is vertical. in that position both No 1 and No 4 pistons will be at tdc so on one of those cylinders both intake and exhaust valves should be shut and have the 0.2mm clearances. If neither sets of valves are fully closed then it looks like the cam timing is out.
 
either a valve or more aint sealing ,head gasket blown between two or timing,timing looks right but is cam key ok
What do you mean the cam key? Are you suggesting the cam timing cog has slipped on the shaft? I will check that in the morning.
I will also check the valves and redo the timing again as see if that makes a differance. I agree is sounds like a valve is positively open which is what lead me to think the timing was still out.
 
What do you mean the cam key? Are you suggesting the cam timing cog has slipped on the shaft? I will check that in the morning.
I will also check the valves and redo the timing again as see if that makes a differance. I agree is sounds like a valve is positively open which is what lead me to think the timing was still out.
its possible with a sudden shock, you can see if you undo the bolt ,use loctite on the threads when you refit it
 
What do you mean the cam key? Are you suggesting the cam timing cog has slipped on the shaft? I will check that in the morning.
I will also check the valves and redo the timing again as see if that makes a differance. I agree is sounds like a valve is positively open which is what lead me to think the timing was still out.
No 6

Bugger, cant upload picture for some reason!
 
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