Could the hilicoil failing on the idler pulley be enough to cause the belt side to wear if the idler was not running true? Or is that being two hopeful that I can solve two problems in one go?
 
Could the hilicoil failing on the idler pulley be enough to cause the belt side to wear if the idler was not running true? Or is that being two hopeful that I can solve two problems in one go?

Definitely worth investigation. Hard for me to say exactly how bad the failure is without seeing the vehicle.
 
Maybe the idler was the cause of the belt tracking across, the stud may have been cross threaded hence the hole now being stripped. From the pics that doesn't look like a helicoiled repair but i'd imagine it could be fixed with one. Probably have to be removed to be done properly
 
Maybe the idler was the cause of the belt tracking across, the stud may have been cross threaded hence the hole now being stripped. From the pics that doesn't look like a helicoiled repair but i'd imagine it could be fixed with one. Probably have to be removed to be done properly

I hadn't realised there were pics, connection is fairly slow here.

As you say, stripped threads are fairly common on those.
 
Could the hilicoil failing on the idler pulley be enough to cause the belt side to wear if the idler was not running true? Or is that being two hopeful that I can solve two problems in one go?
if idler was loose that would do it, a helicoil or recoil would be the fix too
 
I had a NEW tensioner that was bent out the box, check the steel plate is flat on your old one and the new one if you get one.
 
if idler was loose that would do it, a helicoil or recoil would be the fix too
I think it has already had that done and it has stripped again as the seperate threaded section shown in the picture of the stud is not aluminium or the threads of the stud. If it has already had a failed helicoil repair can it still be repaired a second time.
I will have to invest in a helicoil set.
 
I think it has already had that done and it has stripped again as the seperate threaded section shown in the picture of the stud is not aluminium or the threads of the stud. If it has already had a failed helicoil repair can it still be repaired a second time.
I will have to invest in a helicoil set.
if its a failed helicoil youll need some other method of repair,unless the helicoil tap provides a good new thread for the coil to sit in
 
TD110041 is the part number for the new stud, it is m10 does any one know the thread pitch so i can make sure I get the correct size Helicoil kit?
 
If you can't get the helical to work then you may be able to get a stepped stud where there is a 12mm thread at one end that then necks does to 10mm for the idler. Obviously that would mean drilling and tapping the case out to M12 so you would need to check there is sufficient material to let you do that.
 
If you can't get the helical to work then you may be able to get a stepped stud where there is a 12mm thread at one end that then necks does to 10mm for the idler. Obviously that would mean drilling and tapping the case out to M12 so you would need to check there is sufficient material to let you do that.

This sort of thing as an example (yes I know its the wrong size:rolleyes:), obviously you would need descent spec material or possibly have one custom made?
 
Many thanks.

If you can't get the helical to work then you may be able to get a stepped stud where there is a 12mm thread at one end that then necks does to 10mm for the idler. Obviously that would mean drilling and tapping the case out to M12 so you would need to check there is sufficient material to let you do that.

I had already thought of that, There is plenty of metal to increase to an m12 however finsing and m12 to m10 reducing stud appears to be very difficult. Other than an obscure toyota part which I cannot find for sale they do not seem to exists so may need to be custom
 
Has anyone used these thread inserts LINK?
They are chunkier than the helicoil which has pulled out so should be able to drill and tap the hole to fit (cannot use the self tapping as they will need to be cut down shorter), and then able to refit a standard stud. does that seem likely to work?
 
It would be worth buying a 12mm stud or threaded bar and getting it turned and threaded to suit. It could be done at home with a bit of careful filing and rethreading with a cheap bit of rod and tap/die kit from screwfix.
 
It would be worth buying a 12mm stud or threaded bar and getting it turned and threaded to suit. It could be done at home with a bit of careful filing and rethreading with a cheap bit of rod and tap/die kit from screwfix.

I have some left over high tensile 12mm studding that I used to make a puller for series chassis spring bushes, and I have m10 dies. I will see how easy it is to turn it down enough for the die to fit using the pillar drill and some emery paper. If that works I will then invest in some m12 taps to re-thread the hole and hope it all goes together square.
 
I have some left over high tensile 12mm studding that I used to make a puller for series chassis spring bushes, and I have m10 dies. I will see how easy it is to turn it down enough for the die to fit using the pillar drill and some emery paper. If that works I will then invest in some m12 taps to re-thread the hole and hope it all goes together square.
If you do end up going that way then it may be worth making two, try fitting one in a lump of scrap aluminium, use your old idler and assemble it as would be on the engine. Try torque loading it to the. correct value to prove it works and then start over-torquing it to see at what torque it fails at, if it is 2 or 3 times higher (or more) than the correct torque then you should be ok. If it is only a little bit over the correct torque then it may be worth a rethink?
 

Similar threads