dag019

dag019

Well-Known Member
i am currently sat on the hard shoulder of the m40 awaiting aa recovery so while I wait though I would be fine diagnosis. I have limited ability to check things where I am due to the location but a list of things to check once home would be good.

Symptoms
Cruising along the motorway quite happily at an indicated 70mph at about 3000 rpm
Loss of power. With a lot of gray/white smoke for about 30seconds the cut out
Will now not restart. Cranks over with no problem but no sign of life

Have quickly check the stop soloiniod is still connected. The oil level is still correct. And the lift pump feels like it is still pumping (hand lever) I have had these fail many times and it does not match previous failures.

Does anyone else have anything I can easily check at the side of the motorway to see if I can get started again?

What sort of things should I be checking once I get it back home and have space and tools?
 
Last edited:
Do not know if related or relevant but once stopped the hazard fuse had blown. Now replaced so at least have a warning while on the hard shoulder!
 
dag019 said:
i am currently sat on the hard shoulder of the m40 awaiting a recovery so while I wait though I would be fine diagnosis. I have limited ability to check things where I am due to the location but a list of things to check once home would be good.

Symptoms
Cruising along the motorway quite happily at an indicated 70mph at about 3000 rpm
Loss of power. With a lot of gray/white smoke for about 30seconds the cut out
Will now not restart. Cranks over with no problem but no sign of life

Have quickly check the stop soloiniod is still connected. The oil level is still correct. And the lift pump feels like it is still pumping (hand lever) I have had these fail many times and it does not match previous failures.

Does anyone else have anything I can easily check at the side of the motorway to see if I can get started again?

What sort of things should I be checking once I get it back home and have space and tools?
Click to expand...

Stop solenoid itself may have failed, or a short in it's wiring, or an intake hose may have collapsed.

The hazard fuse is probably a coincidence.
 
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Not a leak off pipe. Have checked those.

Stop solenoid was my first though but don’t have a multi metre with me to check for power Unfortunatly.
 
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Turboman said:
Stop solenoid itself may have failed, or a short in it's wiring, or an intake hose may have collapsed.

The hazard fuse is probably a coincidence.
Click to expand...
Would a collapsed intake hose cause it to not start at all? All the intake pipe work is silicone hose.
 
Simples - look in and see where rocker arm is, then crank it over for a second then go and look again. Try it a couple of times just to be sure.
 
Kwakerman said:
Got it sorted, assume you aren't still stuck at side of road!
Click to expand...

Apologies for the lack of update. I got aa recovered home swappped vehicles and then continued to South Wales in the series. (Which hilightes a couple of issues there)
Today I will be diagnosing the 110.

List to check so far:
Power to stop solenoid
Lift pump/fuel filter working
Intake pipe conditions
Timing belt intact.

Anything else worth adding? Will report back after I have done those checks.
 
dag019 said:
If there is power to the stop soloniod. How can you test if it had failed internally?
Click to expand...

While since I worked on a Tdi, but I think if you remove it and take the guts out and re-insert it will work.

Or you could remove it and try a new one, they are only a few quid, make sure it is getting power first.
 
Turboman said:
While since I worked on a Tdi, but I think if you remove it and take the guts out and re-insert it will work.

Or you could remove it and try a new one, they are only a few quid, make sure it is getting power first.
Click to expand...

Stop solenoid has 12volts and can be heard click when connected/disconnected. So will not rule it out but will leave it for now and try other things.
 
dag019 said:
Stop solenoid has 12volts and can be heard click when connected/disconnected. So will not rule it out but will leave it for now and try other things.
Click to expand...
I would suspect its not a fuel related issue if you got grey/white smoke. If the fuel stopped or was restricted then you probably would lose power but with no smoke. I'm still leaning toward a belt issue (either snapped of timing slipped), when was it last changed?
 
And the winner is......

Timing belt.
Very annoying. It was on my list to do as the interval is up in 8k so it has gone early!

Other than everything needed to do the belt and a new set of push rods what else do I need to do?
Do I need to take the head off to check the intervals will a set of push rods be all that is needed?
 
Kwakerman said:
I would suspect its not a fuel related issue if you got grey/white smoke. If the fuel stopped or was restricted then you probably would lose power but with no smoke. I'm still leaning toward a belt issue (either snapped of timing slipped), when was it last changed?
Click to expand...

It is the belt. That was my first thought as well. I was just being hopeful it would be something else.
It Was changed about 65k ago so was on y list to do again in rhe near future as I knew it was coming up to being due.
 
White smoke can be a symptom of air in the fuel. First I'd eliminate solenoid by taking it off and removing the plunger from inside (if you can't get a spanner on it then vice grips would work as it shouldn't be tight). Once you put the empty solenoid back then you may have to stall the engine to stop it. Assuming it still isn't running then the lift pump on the side of the engine would be my next suspect. You could improvise a temporary gravity fed tank to the back of the injector pump to eliminate this possibility.

Edit: haha - cross post. Glad you got to the bottom of it. Suprised it wasn't more obvious... And reminds me i should probably think about changing mine
 
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