Well once you eliminate everything else, the only thing left is the injector pump itself.
Have you check the fuel pin to see if it is seizing/seized?
Just to confirm it did not do the stalling thing until the mech changed the cambelt?
Have you check the fuel pin to see if it is seizing/seized?
Just to confirm it did not do the stalling thing until the mech changed the cambelt?
Do you mean the boost pin under the top cover?
It was running just fine beforehand. My son booked it in to get the clutch done and decided to get the belt done at the same time.
Should mention that with the stop solenoid disconnected the lift pump gives a good squirt of fuel before the filter (with engine cranking over).
With the pipe removed on inj pump inlet I would hazard a guess the squirt of fuel is slightly less pressure, is this because of having to go through the filter?
Many thanks for the help so far.
With the pipe removed on inj pump inlet I would hazard a guess the squirt of fuel is slightly less pressure, is this because of having to go through the filter?
Many thanks for the help so far.
you remove that top cover
You lift out the diaphragm
At the very bottom of the hole is a little pin that should slide into as you apply the throttle this is the little pin that rise up and down on the tapered part of the boost pin
The bottom pin is the part that can seize
Ok, just done that. The boost pin and diaphragm moves up and down and turns easily.The dot on the diaphragm pointed to the front, number 13 is stamped on the bottom of the pin. Under the diaphragm has quite a bit of fluid in it, looks like diesel but hard to tell. I thought it should be dry? I can see the fuel pin move inwards when operating the throttle arm, pushes back out easily. I have attached photo of where the fuel pin has been running on the boost pin.
Attachments
That looks really clean, the one score mark on the tapered part shows it has not been ****ted with, as people rotate the thing clockwise to get more fuel at lower rpms, this then leaves another score mark as evidence.
It should be dry in there, I have never personally seen anything apart from grease and in one case water under there, but so long as its not peeing out I would not be concerned, if you notice on the back of the pump there is a rubber nipple, this is the breather for the space underneath the diaphragm, this is also where water can get into the pump if car is used for deep water crossings etc.
Might be worth letting the thing idle, and one at a time crack of an injector and see how much the rpms drop, do this on all four lines, and if they all have roughly the same effect you may be looking at the inj pump.
It should be dry in there, I have never personally seen anything apart from grease and in one case water under there, but so long as its not peeing out I would not be concerned, if you notice on the back of the pump there is a rubber nipple, this is the breather for the space underneath the diaphragm, this is also where water can get into the pump if car is used for deep water crossings etc.
Might be worth letting the thing idle, and one at a time crack of an injector and see how much the rpms drop, do this on all four lines, and if they all have roughly the same effect you may be looking at the inj pump.
Going to try and get back on this today.
Going to see if I can get a bit of clear pipe from filter to inj pump to make 100% there is no air.
Then crack off injectors to see if that tells us anything.
After that I guess we will have to send the pump and injectors away to be serviced.
Pretty much eliminated the cheap parts and checks as far as I can tell, unless anyone has ideas to the contrary?
Going to see if I can get a bit of clear pipe from filter to inj pump to make 100% there is no air.
Then crack off injectors to see if that tells us anything.
After that I guess we will have to send the pump and injectors away to be serviced.
Pretty much eliminated the cheap parts and checks as far as I can tell, unless anyone has ideas to the contrary?
Fitted the clear pipe between filter and inj pump, when running there is no air in the pipe.
When I switch off you can see diesel and air running back from the inj pump to the filter.
What would this indicate?
Also developed a slight misfire when you put a few revs on.
EDIT: IGNORE THAT, TEMPORARY PIPE HAD A POOR SEAL.
When I switch off you can see diesel and air running back from the inj pump to the filter.
What would this indicate?
Also developed a slight misfire when you put a few revs on.
EDIT: IGNORE THAT, TEMPORARY PIPE HAD A POOR SEAL.
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To be honest I don't know exactly or how to check it. When the problem started the revs at idle were the same they have been for the past 9 years without a problem. I upped the revs a fair bit when testing, knocked them back a bit and the problem is back again.
Won't hurt to have them refurbed anyway.
Is there a way I can measure the idle and set it correctly when the injectors come back?
Well, it's not the injectors causing the problem.
It drives well but still if you come off full throttle, after 1 min or so, it will stutter and rough idle then resets itself.
I have come to the conclusion that the o-ring on the fuel pin is leaking fuel into the boost pin area. I have no idea though if that can be the cause of the symptoms or not. Not much else to look at now.
Might have to give it to an expert, if I can find one!
It drives well but still if you come off full throttle, after 1 min or so, it will stutter and rough idle then resets itself.
I have come to the conclusion that the o-ring on the fuel pin is leaking fuel into the boost pin area. I have no idea though if that can be the cause of the symptoms or not. Not much else to look at now.
Might have to give it to an expert, if I can find one!
