Thanks , I decided to leave th cyclonic breather alone for now and will tackle that one when I mission onto adjusting the valve clearances. So just an update, have replaced all the fuel return pipes, got a cooper filter on, new glow plugs in (which actually show sign of life on the multimeter) and finally just cleaned up some oil from around the engine to try and keep ontop of new leaks.

Glow plugs all came out with relative ease, and also easy enough to get new ones in... I found that cylinder 1 and 4 were bone dry with black soot on them, number 2 was caked in the oily stuff and number 3 isn't too bad. Should I be worried bout this?

Couldn't test to see if this improves the cold start but will let you guys know tomorrow.
Thanks
 

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Hey all, just a quick update. Replacing the spill return pipes has made a vast improvement to the startup and completely cleared the white smoke! She is still really underpowered and so my next job will be to look at the timing of the fip (this is the one the mechanic said couldn't get lined up 100%). What are the chances the timing might be 180deg out or would that mean the engine wouldn't fire up at all? Could I just do a reset by locking flywheel and adjust the pump (as mentioned by James Martin earlier) or would I need to check the whole timing setup which was done by the mechanics?

Thanks! :)
 
I think james said earlier on that its easy to get the timing right as per the pins but if you set it just so you then cant advance the timing anymore as you run out of adjustment so it needs stripping down and knocking back a tooth then start the timing again, Ive done the exact same thing on my Series tdi, right ****ed off I was but my own stupid fault.
The mech may not know the timing can be really fine tuned by using the pulleys 3 bolts, dont under any circumstances try and undo the 22m spanner sized nut, its okay to use it for moving the pump in relation to the pulley.
It sounds scary but is quite simple, some vids on youtube.
 
lynall said:
dont under any circumstances try and undo the 22m spanner sized nut
Click to expand...

;), Aye... It's best avoided, if possible - If you have to, then you'll need a DTI to set the timing properly - its fiddly and a bit time consuming the first time you do it... but possible - cheap DTI's are about £30 from the usual online place(s)....:)
 
When I ingested water in my engine and bent two conrods , made the mistake of removing the Injection pump pulley during the rebuild have never achieved the same fuel performance since maybe I need to check pump timing. Once I realised what I had done I just gambled that it had not moved and refitted.
 
Blackburn said:
When I ingested water in my engine and bent two conrods , made the mistake of removing the Injection pump pulley during the rebuild have never achieved the same fuel performance since maybe I need to check pump timing. Once I realised what I had done I just gambled that it had not moved and refitted.[/QUOTE

Pop the 4 screws off the top of the pump, mark the position of the rubber and rotate it one full turn then lift it out watch for the spring and the bylon washer, I bet you will find corrosion or water damage under the rubber, the fuel pin that controls everything is at the bottom of the hole, move throttle lever with your hand and you should see the pin move out nicely, long screwdriver and you can push the pin back in so it all goes back together nicely, a little grease also helps.
Mine had corroded real bad from deep water work, I was real ****ed off the whole engine was waterproof and amazingly the injector pump isnt!
I then used the original FIP boost capsule breather nipple and stuck some 4mm O/D nylon pipe into it and ran it high up the engine bay.
Click to expand...
 
Lynall I have been in there in the past as I fitted the engine without turbo so needed to reduce fueling , next sunny day I will whip the top off and have a look for any water damage. Cheers
 
Dont leave it to long mine was really snotty, you know when you see damp corroded alloy casings/part thats got soft bits all over it? thats what it was like.
 
Lynall
I have had the top off today no water above diaphragm , attempted to lift the diaphragm and its pin out for some reason it does not want to come out maybe I did not turn it enough , will read the instructions again..
Will have another go when I get a warmer day , all looked ok when bending the rubber to the side.
 
The top of the diaphragm is fed from the turbo/inlet manifold so is pretty clean maybe with a bit of oil, its the underneath that is vented to atmosphere and can get water in, you can lift the rubber and shine a torch down into the hole and see if its corroded, a couple of drops of oil wont hurt either.

You have to turn the rubber 360 degrees this makes sure the pin is back in its housing at the bottom of the hole, if no go do some research as there was a guy with same problem and Iirc he removed a blank bung which exposed the back of the fuel pin and he was able to free it up that way, pretty sure there were some good pics as well.
 
Lynall
Managed to get diapragm out today and found no corrosion down the well but the fuel pin was tight , this is probably as I use it without Turbo and it will sit in the same position normally.
Managed to get a little lubrication on the pin and it moves freely again , all back together now and running ok.
 
Brilliant bets of all you have gained some knowledge, and thats pretty much how I learnt about everything, bar the odd fcuk up!
 
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