Francois.Lefevre
Member
Thanks Disco1BFG, that also actually answers my next question... will get a new one ordered right now
is the general concensus to steer clear of britpart?
is the general concensus to steer clear of britpart?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
the point should be to stay away from cheap pattern parts if possible ,most sell cheap pattern as well as britpart ,but they like britpart sell genuine and decent brands tooThanks Disco1BFG, that also actually answers my next question... will get a new one ordered right now
basically yes,
but, some of the stuff they sell is ok, like springs, ... and.... anything they sell with a "G" in the part number is an OEM part, so should be as good as the LR part.... For example br*part wheel bearings have a hell of a (bad) reputation, but the genuine Timken ones are so cheap - I've no idea why anyone fits br*tpart TBH...
Do a search on here.... there's LOADS of info !!
Ive always ran britpart filters on my 200s with no apparent issues.
The braided breather pipe shown should fit into the top of the air filter housing, people do move them remote as they can and do clog up the air filter with snotty gunge, if you look at your pic you can see the flex pipe to top right of the pic? just out of shot is where the pipe plugs in and is held on with a jubilee clip.
The braided breather pipe shown should fit into the top of the air filter housing, people do move them remote as they can and do clog up the air filter with snotty gunge, if you look at your pic you can see the flex pipe to top right of the pic? just out of shot is where the pipe plugs in and is held on with a jubilee clip.
Francois.Lefevre
Member
Thanks all for your helpful replies, I have a new filter arriving tomorrow and am in the process of ordering fuel pipe, (10mm ID input and 8mm ID for the spill return) would this be correct? I was also wondering if I could replace the whole lot with clear tubing or should I stick to the braided one? (Just for the sake of seeing what's happening fuel wise)
Francois.Lefevre
Member
Thanks Neilly, I have just send him a messageRef the fuel pipe,
IIRC, Ask @Flossie , because I think he used clear pipe. although I may be wrong.....
Cheers
Flossie
Well-Known Member
I've used a disco filter housing to replace the NA which was what my tratter was powered by.
I may have used a combination of filter housing banjos from the two on the filter, can't recall.
I found that all the smooth parts of the steel pipes were either 8 or 10mm OD which enabled the use of brass compression fittings . The filter head shows where I had to use a 10-8mm reducer, I didn't need to use inserts for the nylon pipe but it wouldn't do any harm if you do.
The fuel banjos should be removed off the filter and the FIP because the barb's or 'bulge' will need cutting off to leave just the plain steel pipe to enable the use of the compression fittings.
Clean around the banjos before removing them and temporarily replace the bolts, don't mix the bolts up, the flow banjo bolt has a larger port than the return, you don't want dirt getting in anywhere.
I used a blow torch to soften the old Plastic pipe and pulled it off, do not cut it off the tube because you may gouge the steel and the compression fittings may leak.
I don't have a lift pump, I've used a facet pump mounted under the driver's seat box so I don't know if the lift pump can be converted and I did this around 12 yrs ago and can't even remember what the lift pump looked like.
The facet pump has 1/8" bsp female threads so I used 1/8"bsp to 10mm compression fittings there.
Engine bay is grubby from orf roading including the nylon pipes but when they are cleaned it's easy to see the fuel/bubbles running through you can see on the top filter fitting that the new pipe fitts straight onto the barb, I probably warmed the nylon or the barb to slide it on, can't remember. Injector pump return shows compression fitting onto the steel pipe, the flow on the FIP uses the same method but I couldn't get a decent pic of that.
I may have used a combination of filter housing banjos from the two on the filter, can't recall.
I found that all the smooth parts of the steel pipes were either 8 or 10mm OD which enabled the use of brass compression fittings . The filter head shows where I had to use a 10-8mm reducer, I didn't need to use inserts for the nylon pipe but it wouldn't do any harm if you do.
The fuel banjos should be removed off the filter and the FIP because the barb's or 'bulge' will need cutting off to leave just the plain steel pipe to enable the use of the compression fittings.
Clean around the banjos before removing them and temporarily replace the bolts, don't mix the bolts up, the flow banjo bolt has a larger port than the return, you don't want dirt getting in anywhere.
I used a blow torch to soften the old Plastic pipe and pulled it off, do not cut it off the tube because you may gouge the steel and the compression fittings may leak.
I don't have a lift pump, I've used a facet pump mounted under the driver's seat box so I don't know if the lift pump can be converted and I did this around 12 yrs ago and can't even remember what the lift pump looked like.
The facet pump has 1/8" bsp female threads so I used 1/8"bsp to 10mm compression fittings there.
Engine bay is grubby from orf roading including the nylon pipes but when they are cleaned it's easy to see the fuel/bubbles running through
you can see on the top filter fitting that the new pipe fitts straight onto the barb, I probably warmed the nylon or the barb to slide it on, can't remember. Injector pump return shows compression fitting onto the steel pipe, the flow on the FIP uses the same method but I couldn't get a decent pic of that.
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Francois.Lefevre
Member
Thanks Flossie, brilliant post! And thanks for the pics... I think I will go down the same route as you with this clear pipe.. just hope to order the right stuff!I've used a disco filter housing to replace the NA which was what my tratter was powered by.
I may have used a combination of filter housing banjos from the two on the filter, can't recall.
I found that all the smooth parts of the steel pipes were either 8 or 10mm OD which enabled the use of brass compression fittings . The filter head shows where I had to use a 10-8mm reducer, I didn't need to use inserts for the nylon pipe but it wouldn't do any harm if you do.
The fuel banjos should be removed off the filter and the FIP because the barb's or 'bulge' will need cutting off to leave just the plain steel pipe to enable the use of the compression fittings.
Clean around the banjos before removing them and temporarily replace the bolts, don't mix the bolts up, the flow banjo bolt has a larger port than the return, you don't want dirt getting in anywhere.
I used a blow torch to soften the old Plastic pipe and pulled it off, do not cut it off the tube because you may gouge the steel and the compression fittings may leak.
I don't have a lift pump, I've used a facet pump mounted under the driver's seat box so I don't know if the lift pump can be converted and I did this around 12 yrs ago and can't even remember what the lift pump looked like.
The facet pump has 1/8" bsp female threads so I used 1/8"bsp to 10mm compression fittings there.
Engine bay is grubby from orf roading including the nylon pipes but when they are cleaned it's easy to see the fuel/bubbles running through
Almost certainly I did try heating the pipe years ago and it was a miserable flop literally as all it wanted to do was kink, then an old guy showed me what he did, I modded it a bit and have been using the same way for ever.
Francois.Lefevre
Member
Hey guys, just a quick update and query, replaced the fuel filter with a cooper one and been lookingover tubes (fuel return pipe definitely needs replacing as they are all perished.
I was doing my usual online fishing around this morning and came across a video on how to check glowplugs with a multimeter, did the test and saw there was no resistance in any!!! Any chance that could explain the rough starts on cold mornings?
I'm just worried I might be testing it wrong so if anyone has any tips or advice on checking these please let me know.
Thanks in advance.
I was doing my usual online fishing around this morning and came across a video on how to check glowplugs with a multimeter, did the test and saw there was no resistance in any!!! Any chance that could explain the rough starts on cold mornings?
I'm just worried I might be testing it wrong so if anyone has any tips or advice on checking these please let me know.
Thanks in advance.
Its not unreasonable for failed glow plugs to cause a moment or two's rough running, but the 200 and 300 are very tolerant of non functioning glow plugs, so, IME, it should only be a moment or two.... quite likely that all these "little" problems are adding up..... and as you solve each one, the problems will dimish and hopefully go away in the non too distant !!
If you post a link to the video, we can see if it contains good advice or not... but measuring the resistance of them isn't particularly difficult. Just disconnect the supply to each one, and then one lead on the power terminal of the plug, and the other lead on the body of the plug with the meter set on resistance....
You can always play about a bit.... try measuring the resistance of a few other things - like lamps etc...
If you post a link to the video, we can see if it contains good advice or not... but measuring the resistance of them isn't particularly difficult. Just disconnect the supply to each one, and then one lead on the power terminal of the plug, and the other lead on the body of the plug with the meter set on resistance....
You can always play about a bit.... try measuring the resistance of a few other things - like lamps etc...
Blackburn
Well-Known Member
My glow plugs are only 0.75 ohms resistance.
What happens if you put 12V onto connections direct from battery then attempt starting.
A lot of newer glowplugs are self regulating ie current starts high then drops I believe they are double wound.
Pull your glow plugs out and test them out of engine with 12V should be able to see them heat up.
What happens if you put 12V onto connections direct from battery then attempt starting.
A lot of newer glowplugs are self regulating ie current starts high then drops I believe they are double wound.
Pull your glow plugs out and test them out of engine with 12V should be able to see them heat up.
Francois.Lefevre
Member
Brilliant thanks guys, Just got a set from bearmach for 12£ and should have them in on Wednesday along with the fuel spill rail... will update you on how it goes!
A quick one for lyanall, saw your post on here with the cyclonic breather cut in half! Brilliant stuff, Can anyone suggest a simple way to clean them out without compressed air? I have old diesel although unusre if that's a good idea on a part which will connect to the rocker cover?
Thanks
A quick one for lyanall, saw your post on here with the cyclonic breather cut in half! Brilliant stuff, Can anyone suggest a simple way to clean them out without compressed air? I have old diesel although unusre if that's a good idea on a part which will connect to the rocker cover?
Thanks
Im sure a flush of derv and a decent shake about will be fine, to be honest I doubt theres bugger all in it anyway, just a little oil and thats it, iirc the new one was 12 quid ebay.
I wouldnt use compressed air as you may damage the rubber diaphragm or the little spring.
I wouldnt use compressed air as you may damage the rubber diaphragm or the little spring.
