I have a 2.2 free lander 2 it struggles to start just noticed oil in air intake the car will not rev up I've had new injectors new glow plugs new throttle body new mass airfow sensor it's in like limp mode I've been told it could be the turbo loads of white smoke on start up but clears when warm any ideas would be appreciated cheers
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Wow. Are you throwing parts at it? This isn't a good plan, as it's very easy to fit a replacement part, that can actually add to the problem.
Have all the new components fitted been calibrated to the ECM?
The injectors need coding in the ECM, the MAF needs it's parameters stored in the ECM, the TB needs it's range of movement programming in the ECM.
Were the glow plugs the correct 11 Volt type, and not the later 5 Volt type?
Have all the new components fitted been calibrated to the ECM?
The injectors need coding in the ECM, the MAF needs it's parameters stored in the ECM, the TB needs it's range of movement programming in the ECM.
Were the glow plugs the correct 11 Volt type, and not the later 5 Volt type?
Richard Martin
Well-Known Member
Have you checked for fault codes?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Any answers to my questions?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It won't start without a correct reading from the MAF, mine doesn't, at least not easily.
So as you've had that replaced, was the replacement faulty?
That's the problem with just throwing parts at an engine, as it's easy to put duff parts on, making the issue worse.
Richard Martin
Well-Known Member
The MAF fault still there after fitting the new one?
Richard Martin
Well-Known Member
Someone seemed happy with PK Automotive in this thread Poor running
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That suggest the new one is faulty, or the wiring to it is faulty.
I know mine won't start properly if I accidentally leave it unplugged, when I'm cleaning the intake pipe.
SWalker
Active Member
need a decent code read and set up as nodge said before you flush more money away
Top tip i found out at the weekend that helps - rather than jump in and hit the go button on a cold morning -
turn the ign on first - ie foot off the clutch, this lets the glow plugs do their work - as indicated by the glow plug light on the dash, then start.
Top tip i found out at the weekend that helps - rather than jump in and hit the go button on a cold morning -
turn the ign on first - ie foot off the clutch, this lets the glow plugs do their work - as indicated by the glow plug light on the dash, then start.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The MAF is air filter side of the crankcase vent, so shouldn't get any oil mist on it at all. How is the air filter, is it wet or very dirty?
Why waste time and money on the turbo, when you have a fuel leak?
If you have a leak at the fuel filter, you want to find the reason. There are only 2 common reasons for fuel leaks at the filter. The first is a simple O ring in the return connector, where it joins the filter.
The other common cause is the pressure control valve in the leak back pipes has failed.
If the leak back pipe isn't maintained at 10 Bar, then the injectors won't work, and it won't start.
Don't bother wasting your time and money on a turbo, as it's not the cause of the fuel leak, or it not starting.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Ah sorry, misread what you said. Now I know what you mean, what is happening is correct. The fuel filter has a thermostat that measures the fuel temperature from the injectors. If the fuel is below 30°C or so, the fuel is recirculated to the fuel pump. If the fuel in the filter goes above 30° or so, the excess fuel is then passed back to the tank, so cooler fresh fuel can be drawn up from the tank. So what you are finding is absolutely correct, and not a fault.
Has it had a new fuel filter? These need to be genuine or OE (Purflux) only, as some aftermarket cheap filters cause power issues when hot, as the thermostat is faulty.
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