ozzieowl

Member
I have a 2.2 free lander 2 it struggles to start just noticed oil in air intake the car will not rev up I've had new injectors new glow plugs new throttle body new mass airfow sensor it's in like limp mode I've been told it could be the turbo loads of white smoke on start up but clears when warm any ideas would be appreciated cheers
 
Wow. Are you throwing parts at it? This isn't a good plan, as it's very easy to fit a replacement part, that can actually add to the problem.

Have all the new components fitted been calibrated to the ECM?
The injectors need coding in the ECM, the MAF needs it's parameters stored in the ECM, the TB needs it's range of movement programming in the ECM.
Were the glow plugs the correct 11 Volt type, and not the later 5 Volt type?
 
No engine light took ages to start missing like mad white smoke won't rev up until warm I give up its doing my head in.
 
The only fault that is coming up is hdc fault and mass air flow censor low voltage

It won't start without a correct reading from the MAF, mine doesn't, at least not easily.

So as you've had that replaced, was the replacement faulty?
That's the problem with just throwing parts at an engine, as it's easy to put duff parts on, making the issue worse.
 
The mass airflow sensor was brand new, my concerns are the oil in the air intake to the air filter which I think is causing the maff sensor not to work
 
Going to put another turbo on also I've noticed on the fuel filter diesel is not coming out of the return to the tank until the car is warmed up which takes some doing as it's missing all the time
 
need a decent code read and set up as nodge said before you flush more money away
Top tip i found out at the weekend that helps - rather than jump in and hit the go button on a cold morning -
turn the ign on first - ie foot off the clutch, this lets the glow plugs do their work - as indicated by the glow plug light on the dash, then start.
 
The mass airflow sensor was brand new, my concerns are the oil in the air intake to the air filter which I think is causing the maff sensor not to work
The MAF is air filter side of the crankcase vent, so shouldn't get any oil mist on it at all. How is the air filter, is it wet or very dirty?
Going to put another turbo on also I've noticed on the fuel filter diesel is not coming out of the return to the tank until the car is warmed up which takes some doing as it's missing all the time

Why waste time and money on the turbo, when you have a fuel leak? :confused:

If you have a leak at the fuel filter, you want to find the reason. There are only 2 common reasons for fuel leaks at the filter. The first is a simple O ring in the return connector, where it joins the filter.
The other common cause is the pressure control valve in the leak back pipes has failed.
If the leak back pipe isn't maintained at 10 Bar, then the injectors won't work, and it won't start.

Don't bother wasting your time and money on a turbo, as it's not the cause of the fuel leak, or it not starting.:confused:
 
I didn't say there was a fuel leak it's as tho there's no fuel going to the injectors

Ah sorry, misread what you said. Now I know what you mean, what is happening is correct. The fuel filter has a thermostat that measures the fuel temperature from the injectors. If the fuel is below 30°C or so, the fuel is recirculated to the fuel pump. If the fuel in the filter goes above 30° or so, the excess fuel is then passed back to the tank, so cooler fresh fuel can be drawn up from the tank. So what you are finding is absolutely correct, and not a fault.

Has it had a new fuel filter? These need to be genuine or OE (Purflux) only, as some aftermarket cheap filters cause power issues when hot, as the thermostat is faulty.
 
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