I don't doubt his diagnosis, but if I was picking up the tab, I'd be going hmmmmm a lot.....considering you have no starting or running issues, just when the revs drop funny things happen.
My money is still on the battery/alternator combo...and remember, don't bet money you're not willing to lose!
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I cannot answer that one, tits, tyres and even worse BOATS. I have/had all three and boats are definitely the most expensive. They say there are two good days owning a boat, the day you buy it and the day you sell it.
2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
I cannot answer that one, tits, tyres and even worse BOATS. I have/had all three and boats are definitely the most expensive. They say there are two good days owning a boat, the day you buy it and the day you sell it.
What an inflatable boat ?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
What an inflatable boat ?
Sold that as well, it was the tender. My last boat was a twin masted 32 ft ketch. She was built in 1928 and was an absolute pleasure to sail but being wooden the upkeep was horrendous.
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Well I did check the battery again about 2 hours after getting home again and the check tool registered only 50% charge. Now that does not seem right to me after a good 50 mile round trip on the Motorway cruising at 70 I would expect the battery to be tip top, so it does seem like there's something draining it. BTW I reset one of the fuel consumption registers for the trip home and it showed an average of 30.3 mpg on checking it back home - is that reasonable for a 2.5ton tank?
Oh another question I keep meaning to ask - there's nothing in the manual about a rocker switch mounted laterally on the underside of the dash directly below the steering wheel - what is this for? It appears to activate some ignition controlled circuits on the instrument cluster, the steering wheel position, and the heater/blower!! I found it by accident while looking for the CANBUS connector.
Well I did check the battery again about 2 hours after getting home again and the check tool registered only 50% charge. Now that does not seem right to me after a good 50 mile round trip on the Motorway cruising at 70 I would expect the battery to be tip top, so it does seem like there's something draining it. BTW I reset one of the fuel consumption registers for the trip home and it showed an average of 30.3 mpg on checking it back home - is that reasonable for a 2.5ton tank?
Oh another question I keep meaning to ask - there's nothing in the manual about a rocker switch mounted laterally on the underside of the dash directly below the steering wheel - what is this for? It appears to activate some ignition controlled circuits on the instrument cluster, the steering wheel position, and the heater/blower!! I found it by accident while looking for the CANBUS connector.
That switch is no doubt for when the ignition switch/system fails, it allows you to get the vehicle into a state where it can be hauled onto a flat bed for transportation i.e. set Transfer box neutral, disengage the electronic steering lock and lower the vehicle to transit ride height
Datatek
Well-Known Member
50 miles will not charge a low battery.Well I did check the battery again about 2 hours after getting home again and the check tool registered only 50% charge. Now that does not seem right to me after a good 50 mile round trip on the Motorway cruising at 70 I would expect the battery to be tip top, so it does seem like there's something draining it. BTW I reset one of the fuel consumption registers for the trip home and it showed an average of 30.3 mpg on checking it back home - is that reasonable for a 2.5ton tank?
Oh another question I keep meaning to ask - there's nothing in the manual about a rocker switch mounted laterally on the underside of the dash directly below the steering wheel - what is this for? It appears to activate some ignition controlled circuits on the instrument cluster, the steering wheel position, and the heater/blower!! I found it by accident while looking for the CANBUS connector.
I think, as Saint.V8 said, that you have a battery/alternator problem.
Either the battery itself is duff, not unusual these days or the alternator is not charging well. How are you testing the battery? With a DVM you should see at least 12.5 volts half an hour after switching off and 14.2/14.4 volts at 2K rpm. If your tester is one of those LED red yellow green strip testers, they are terribly inaccurate and may not give you a true idea of battery state. For capacity the battery needs to be disconnected and shunt tested.
