OK, ill go for that, how does one 'reset the modulation' then???
Can a muppet like me do it at home, I do have the old original Rovacom.
Can a muppet like me do it at home, I do have the old original Rovacom.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
First step would be to see if you can see the modulation in live data with your Rovacom.
The engine needs to be at running temperature, ideally 95C to get the correct reading. If you get that far, I can give you an easy method of adjustment with just an engineers steel rule.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The DTI method is a PITA and most people will be unable to get close to the required modulation of 50% at 95C.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
When you are ready get in touch I'm not too far away and I've done modulation Data's way. I could give you a hand. It's very easy and very accurate. Got mine to 52%
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Dti on the pump if you have one of them. Nanocom reads modulation don't know if your thing does
Used your method with a nano if you remember keith? Mine was 80% iirc and ran crap.
Agreed. Just a method if he didn't have access to live modulation .
Used your method with a nano if you remember keith? Mine was 80% iirc and ran crap.
Modulation is a percentage of the timing of the injection on #4 cylinder from the needle lift sensor to that from the crank sensor. Should be around 50% at 750 rpm idle on an engine at normal operating temperature. As the timing chains stretch it tends to go up. Once past 90% you might notice the engine light flashing up as you lift off approaching roundabouts and junctions, that's because it has gone out of range and the car is stalling. A tired FIP and lift-pump can also increase your modulation a little.
The chains are bound to stretch a little over time so for higher mileage engines there's a couple of things to adjust. First the fuel injection pump static timing is adjusted. This is done by using a dial guage in the back of the pump and slackening off the FIP and shifting it to read the correct value, normally rotating it towards the engine a smidge. The other part is the camshaft. With this you use an appropriate sized shim under the cam locking tool before tightening up the (new) stretch camshaft bolt.
An alternative method if you have diagnostics is to mark the FIP position with a couple of marks and then slacken the FIP and tap it ever so slightly towards the engine until you get 50% modulation.
I have done both. I did the alternative method originally but then went back and used the proper method when I put a refurbed FIP on. The car started a lot easier after I rebuilt the top of the engine and set the (original) cam with an appropriate shim though. Of course, all the valves and gear are new so that probably helps as well. I'm on original chains and my modulation is above 50% but I barely touch the key before she fires up.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Yes, it's a physical adjustment of the FIP by rotating it slightly on it's mountings. It can be done with the DTI tool but I defy any amateur to get close to 50% using the DTI. It can be done more easily and very accurately with my alternative method.
Quite a few off have done it this way and as I said before very easy to do with diagnostics
I'll not be looking at the modulation for some time yet since everything's stripped out inside, so, thought I'd have a looksee at the pollen-filters, bit of a job hauling them out, seemed to be 'stuck' , this is what came out of EACH side!! What sort of 'pollen' is that then.
Attachments
Some of that looks like foam from the vent under the screen
Datatek
Well-Known Member
+1 ^^^^^^ Even if there is no foam in the pollen filter, the other stuff is what you get when the scuttle foam is missing.Some of that looks like foam from the vent under the screen
My manual inflation valves leak worse than any bag ever did.
A bit stumped today, need to remove the front carpet to attend to the 'propshaft-hole' & sort the damaged adjacent heater duct on the tunnel, but even though the centre console is off, along with HEVAC, radio, air-sus panel etc. I just cant seem to get the carpet out!!
There's a video on Youtube where a guy has his centre stripped out to the same level as mine, but his carpet is out, so what am I doing wrong??
It seems jammed tight under the middle dash assy. Or do I just pull the bugger??
There's a video on Youtube where a guy has his centre stripped out to the same level as mine, but his carpet is out, so what am I doing wrong??
It seems jammed tight under the middle dash assy. Or do I just pull the bugger??
We cut mine under the gearlever console and just down beside the seat and pulled a quater of it out. Seat out as well.
Little update, rebuilt the compressor, then just fully rebuilt the valve-block as well, temporarily hooked up the electrics, fired her up, the compressor burst into life, & it must have taken a couple of minutes to press up the tank, then up she came, arse end first, then the front, i'll leave it overnight to see if it settles, got new bags ready just in case!!
Doing all that work from empty, the compressor was a bit hot!!
Doing all that work from empty, the compressor was a bit hot!!
