I'm reluctant to remove the gooey layer as it looks like the plastic underneath is beigeYeh, I'm in the process of stripping & cleaning mine as well, it weird, if I scrape my nail across it, a gooey 'layer' is removed.
There are 3 plugs in the doors, not used as the previous owner fitted high-power speakers etc. BUT, I see two original 'T' type plugs which obviously went to 2 speakers, but can any one tell me where the yellow cored plug goes?? I cant find anything or anywhere for it to go??? And all the sockets in the doors are already occupied.
Then had a mad 1/2 hour with a big copper/hide mallet persuading the floor back to where it belongs, The impact had pulled up the heating duct out of place, seems ok now.
Underneath the car? Is yours upside down
The dash not the airbags.
I have took a parrot system out of on old car and I did basically just rip it out and had no issues.Had 4 new tyres fitted yesterday, got real fed up inflating them every day!! The old ones were 2014 & cracked all over sidewalls & even everywhere between the tread, shame really as they all 7-8mm tread depth.
Already beginning to look better, even though it doesn't 'go' yet!!!
Started to remove the 'gooey' surface of the main dash panel, I'm sure its paint & from factory, as its the same on the inside when all the switches etc. are removed, tried all sorts & have ended up using paint-thinner, brutal I know, but once off, it leaves a nice clean surface to which I'm going to spray a new finish.
Even though the original Rover GPS works fine, its a dinosaur nowadays, so I will fit a new Garmin into the opening, after measuring, it looks like the 6" unit might just about go in with a little bit of 'modding'
Does anyone know anything about the 'Parrot' system?? the car seems to have a complete setup, theres a blue box under the HEVAC unit with many plugs & sockets going in & out, into the centre glove box terminating in various phone & mp3 adaptors, a small speaker in the footwell & a wire going up to something on the windscreen.
I want to rip the lot out, BUT, it appears to fit into the original wiring-harness & again, looks factory, reluctant to start pulling it as it also fits into the original radio sockets?? Do you think I can simply cut these & leave the Radio stuff, if that make sense.
The thing up the windscreen will be the microphone probably. I had one in mine and it works great. The pillar trim just pulls square off, it's on spring clips.Had 4 new tyres fitted yesterday, got real fed up inflating them every day!! The old ones were 2014 & cracked all over sidewalls & even everywhere between the tread, shame really as they all 7-8mm tread depth.
Already beginning to look better, even though it doesn't 'go' yet!!!
Started to remove the 'gooey' surface of the main dash panel, I'm sure its paint & from factory, as its the same on the inside when all the switches etc. are removed, tried all sorts & have ended up using paint-thinner, brutal I know, but once off, it leaves a nice clean surface to which I'm going to spray a new finish.
Even though the original Rover GPS works fine, its a dinosaur nowadays, so I will fit a new Garmin into the opening, after measuring, it looks like the 6" unit might just about go in with a little bit of 'modding'
Does anyone know anything about the 'Parrot' system?? the car seems to have a complete setup, theres a blue box under the HEVAC unit with many plugs & sockets going in & out, into the centre glove box terminating in various phone & mp3 adaptors, a small speaker in the footwell & a wire going up to something on the windscreen.
I want to rip the lot out, BUT, it appears to fit into the original wiring-harness & again, looks factory, reluctant to start pulling it as it also fits into the original radio sockets?? Do you think I can simply cut these & leave the Radio stuff, if that make sense.
Possibly a kill switch for the pump? Previous owner of my freelander fitted a hidden kill switch I mean who really steals freelanders but hey ho.I don't think there's a corrosion problem as all the windows, locks, etc. work fine, what I'm asking is if there should be continuity from the speaker plugs directly to the radio plugs?
Just pulled the binnacle & replaced all the bulbs, all the displays seem to work fine now.
There is a non-standard flick-switch in front of the binnacle, no markings, traced the wires to the underside of the inlet manifold, somewhere near rear of the injection pump, any ideas??
It might be a hot start fix if it goes to the coolant sensor.I don't think there's a corrosion problem as all the windows, locks, etc. work fine, what I'm asking is if there should be continuity from the speaker plugs directly to the radio plugs?
Just pulled the binnacle & replaced all the bulbs, all the displays seem to work fine now.
There is a non-standard flick-switch in front of the binnacle, no markings, traced the wires to the underside of the inlet manifold, somewhere near rear of the injection pump, any ideas??
Basically it would be to fool the diesel ECU into thinking the engine is cold. It is not a good fix, much better to reset the modulation to where it should be which sorts the problem properly. The modulation goes out of spec due to chain stretch.Is the coolant sensor under the inlet, behind the pump then?
If so how would it work, shorting the sensor closed, thus telling the ecu its cold??
If so again, is it a good 'fix' ??
Yes for Low & Mid Line systems the speaker wires go to the radio plugs. For the High-Line it's the amplifier input connections that go to the radio plugs.I don't think there's a corrosion problem as all the windows, locks, etc. work fine, what I'm asking is if there should be continuity from the speaker plugs directly to the radio plugs?
Just pulled the binnacle & replaced all the bulbs, all the displays seem to work fine now.
There is a non-standard flick-switch in front of the binnacle, no markings, traced the wires to the underside of the inlet manifold, somewhere near rear of the injection pump, any ideas??