Well dear friends hair pulling is making me bald!!
I've checked & double checked every connector, earthing point I can find, ALL are like new, I feel there is a common denominator from years old MOT fails & the faults still showing & why diagnostics wont communicate, but I don't know what it is.
Nanocom tells me that there is a short on the R/H blend motor, wherever that is, & that there is no communication with the L/H seat, but all the seat functions work fine!!
It also informs me that there is a fuelling fault, but I'll bring that up here at a later date.
I have the battery (new) permanently hooked up to a 25w solar panel & it shows 12.6v & 14.6v when running.

I think my next job is to pull the BeCM out again & send it off for a full inspection, & even if its ok, at least ill know
& can rule it out.

I'm just about ready to start prepping for a respray (I'm doing it outside while the weathers reasonable ) but don't want to
spend a lot more on it ( spent a couple of grand so far ) if its still a scrapper.
 
modelman said:
Well dear friends hair pulling is making me bald!!
I've checked & double checked every connector, earthing point I can find, ALL are like new, I feel there is a common denominator from years old MOT fails & the faults still showing & why diagnostics wont communicate, but I don't know what it is.
Nanocom tells me that there is a short on the R/H blend motor, wherever that is, & that there is no communication with the L/H seat, but all the seat functions work fine!!
It also informs me that there is a fuelling fault, but I'll bring that up here at a later date.
I have the battery (new) permanently hooked up to a 25w solar panel & it shows 12.6v & 14.6v when running.

I think my next job is to pull the BeCM out again & send it off for a full inspection, & even if its ok, at least ill know
& can rule it out.

I'm just about ready to start prepping for a respray (I'm doing it outside while the weathers reasonable ) but don't want to
spend a lot more on it ( spent a couple of grand so far ) if its still a scrapper.
Click to expand...
If you are determined to send the BECM away, @Rick-the-Pick is your man.
 
I have tied the Nanocom modules that wont connect with the key in position 1, 2 & even engine running & completely off.
I have a very good multi-meter & test probe, but since I'm no elctrikery teckie, am reluctant to do anything more than check voltages & continuity.
Is there a way I can pop out individual OBD wires one at a time to check? Does a wire go to a specific ECU? If so, should/could
I check continuity that way?
 
modelman said:
I have tied the Nanocom modules that wont connect with the key in position 1, 2 & even engine running & completely off.
I have a very good multi-meter & test probe, but since I'm no elctrikery teckie, am reluctant to do anything more than check voltages & continuity.
Is there a way I can pop out individual OBD wires one at a time to check? Does a wire go to a specific ECU? If so, should/could
I check continuity that way?
Click to expand...

Certain pins go to certain ECUs although I suspect there is some overlap.

Usually if the pins (front and back) are free from green they're probably OK.
 
The OBD port wiring pin out is in Rave or ETM.
Think this is the right 1
J
 

Attachments

  • OBD port.pdf
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I would check the resistance from each pin to the relevant pin on the ECU's.

Also, there's two corrosion points on the Diag connector. 1) the socket contacts. 2) Inside the crimps along the copper wires.
Sometime the socket contacts look ok, but if the wires are corroded, they could have high resistance.

Remember the ECU's on a P38 are frequently fussy about diagnostic connection. BECM only with ignition off, HEVAC often takes 2-3 attempts, but usually best in ignition positions 2 & 3. ABS only connects below 5mph. EAS must have a good delay timer !!
 
Remember the ECU's on a P38 are frequently fussy about diagnostic connection. BECM only with ignition off, HEVAC often takes 2-3 attempts, but usually best in ignition positions 2 & 3. ABS only connects below 5mph. EAS must have a good delay timer !!

WOW! I didn't know that! My BeCM only works with ignition on, HEVAC works first & every time, I found a schematic for the OBD & will check it out some more, I did consider the old 'green wire corrosion' as well.
 
Been messing again with the Nanocom & found a 'disable EKA' or something like that, so if I disable it, will I have to look & unlock with the key or will the remote actions still be available?? If not, what does it mean?
 
modelman said:
Been messing again with the Nanocom & found a 'disable EKA' or something like that, so if I disable it, will I have to look & unlock with the key or will the remote actions still be available?? If not, what does it mean?
Click to expand...
Remote is still available but you can use the key if the FOB doesn't work. You must also disable the immobiliser.
 
That's great, thank you yet again, I think i WILL disable them both then, so that will be a couple of possible problems out of the way!
So does that also mean that if the battery is disconnected for some time in the future, it can be re-connected & the key will work 'normally' without resetting stuff?
 
modelman said:
That's great, thank you yet again, I think i WILL disable them both then, so that will be a couple of possible problems out of the way!
So does that also mean that if the battery is disconnected for some time in the future, it can be re-connected & the key will work 'normally' without resetting stuff?
Click to expand...
More or less, you may have to resync the FOB or just do a lock/unlock cycle with the key. I have never had to do that though. The alarm is still active and if the alarm is triggered you will get an engine immobilised message but again this can be cleared with a lock/unlock cycle.
I had the FOB pack up last week when we were shopping, no sweat, no faffing with entering the EKA, just unlock with the key and away.
 
modelman said:
Just so I know, if I disable the EKA/Imob, is it reversable?
Click to expand...
Yes, but I can think of no good reason why you would want to reverse it and give yourself more hassle I run both mine with EKA/Immob ddisabled and have done for years.
 
Datatek said:
Yes, but I can think of no good reason why you would want to reverse it and give yourself more hassle I run both mine with EKA/Immob ddisabled and have done for years.
Click to expand...
I'd be interested in doing this for the next time a door latch gives up and gets immobilized 🤔
I've seen the option on the nanoo nanoo but not tempted incase I lock the system or cause a problem I didn't have 😬
 
Mark Piercy said:
I'd be interested in doing this for the next time a door latch gives up and gets immobilized 🤔
I've seen the option on the nanoo nanoo but not tempted incase I lock the system or cause a problem I didn't have 😬
Click to expand...
As long as the micro switches work from the key, it's a no risk change as far as I'm concerned. Even if the micro switches fail, you are no worse off with EKA/IMOB disabled as in that situation you would not be able to enter the EKA code.
 
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